BLKMGK

Yeah, but I miss the Today's Active Topics list too. I cannot always check in every day and like to look at the latest new stuff for the day...

I've not got a list of stuff that I'm looking for right now but I'd VERY much appreciate you looking around and telling us what's available and some prices. I've heard so much about the place but don't know how it works, what's available, or if we can just order from them someplace. Would like to learn more!

Lots of shops think they can get a job done quicker than they can and then run into problems. It's always best to call before leaving and make sure that it's sitting in the lot ready to roll before heading over. Sux but that's the way it is, many places just run into unexpected problems or look at a job and think it will go faster than it does. These guys sound like they're working with you, don't piss them off. They warrantied the trans for 12K and it sounds like it made it to 20K - what's wrong with that exactly? I've known guys who have rebuilt transmissions for a living. They would build transmissions for guys, send them out, get paid via credit card, and then months later get a call "it's broken". The kids would beat the crap out of the trans, break it, and then have their credit card company do a charge back! Once my mechanic friend even saw one of these punks doing a mile long burnout only to return later and claim he had no idea whay the trans was broken This shop has NO idea how the trans was treated once they gave it to you. How many times did the fluid get changed after you got it back? The filter? It sounds like they're trying to take care of you - let them...

Isolate the Blue pump and it's not so loud. I used some rubber between the mount and the frame and mine isn't anywhere near as loud as it way. You should also insulate the braided line going to the front as it will vibrate itself and transfer sound into the car - use cushioned clamps. The regulator will make noise too - mine is on th firewall (bad place) and I can hear it. Again, isolate it...

I don't believe that "all" Allen bolts are Grade 8.

I bought HID for the Supra - it was nowhere near $800! It was about half that. Anyway, HID requires a very well done set of optics to work right. Most lenses aren't designed right for them - projecvtor style lights work best but obviously the Z hasn't got them. First things first - install relays on your headlights. Stock wiring goes through a country mile of wire and through the headlight switch and fuse box. By the time it's 20 years old the wiring and connections are putting some pretty decent resistance into the circuit. If you measure the voltage I'll bet it's SEVERAL volts down - mine was. Using relays made a MAJOR difference - night and day (seriously). The Silverstars are GOOD bulbs. I'm using those as high beams on my Supra. Turning on the high beams with the HID I can barely tell the difference between them and there are NO funky optics issues to worry about. Relays first though otherwise the Silverstars will burn out your wiring...

Looks like a Supercharged 5.0 if I squint right.

Umm Mike, do you know how many days a year it RAINS in Boone? Check it out - it rains well over 50% and probably closer to 70% of the days. Heck, it apparently rains less in Florida! Nice area, pretty foliage, winding roads, great Japanese restaraunt

Car is a daily driver, I keep the boost lower around towen - W/G spring is 1.2BAR and I wish it were lower. WOT in 1-3rd when the turbo spools is tire smoke right now. DRs will go on in the Spring, suspension will be done ASAP. Clutch is a PITA and will be replaced but is holding the power fine. Tuning is what I need most right now. It's not been down the track since the T-78 went on. The sheet on a Mustang dyno kind of sux. I did get a weight of 3625lbs with two people onboard. I'll try to scan the sheet shortly. I'm not sure how the RPMs were derived as there was no connection made to the engine - I think they assume 4th is a 1:1 to the rollers for this, I'm not so sure. It shows power coming on at 4500RPM, logs show lower than that but the point they let off at looks accurate and about 500RPM early. http://www.currysauto.com is the shop I spent time at. Unfortunatly they've not posted dyno numbers from the other cars. I'm doing some research with other locals to find out if they're someone I should trust Honestly, I think the 417AWHP Galant was more impressive than my car, especially since he was apparently NOT running full power!

ROTFL! My SO's daughter went to school in Boone - been there a few times. This is GREAT stuff!

Was part of a contest and we were on a Mustang dyno which supposedly read lower than Dynojets most folks use. Runs were back to back to back with no cooldown. First run was aborted, the engine missed a bit. I told them to "let it eat", lowered the boost a bit, and off we went. Third and last pull I bumped the boost up a bit again but my boost solenoid tuning is still not quite "right" so it was 1.6BAR instead of the 1.85 I wanted Anyway, this yielded 550RWHP and 5i5ftlbs. That HP was at 6250 and right about where they let off the gas - power looked to still be climbing. Torque peak was at 4500RPM, this was a 4th gear pull. On the road I normally see full spool by 3900RPM but I guess on the dyno it's a little slower. The car popped a bit on both of the last two pulls and EGT appears to have climbed some so I suspect timing is too retarded and will be tuning that some. Oh, I lost the contest (all imports). Another Supra dynoed about 8 hours after me. On 21PSI he made 633RWHP and over 600ftlbs That was low boost for him as he has both tuning and engine issues right now. Normally he runs 31PSI with a spool shot of nitrous on top of that Really nice guy though and we chatted forever waiting for the contest to finish up. The 4banger champ was an AWD Galant - 417AWHP. The 2nd place 4banger was well over 300AWHP in a Talon. The Galant VR4 was VERY impreswsive and very smooth (Talon barely idled). I found out later that the Galant wasn't on full boost . A Honda on pure pump ran 287FWHP with a big motor and turbo swap - he was a nice guy too. Overall - it was a fun day but a long one. I got to check out a local shop I knew nothing about and will probably be chatting with them about tuning a bit on my car...

Horsepower increase from nitrous is PRIMARILY from the added oxygen content when the oxygen breaks it's bond with the nitrogen. The cooling is nice but it's FAR from the biggest part of the power increase A wet kit is fine until you have to worry about mixture distribution issues and intake wall wetting. I personally get the heebie jeebies thinking about a dry system. You won't want a big shot anyway, say 50-75HP to spool the turbo more quickly, wet is fine for that IMO. I'd bet that if he runs a 50 shot he sees at least 60-70HP, turbo cars seem to really love nitrous! Big injectors idle and drive just like smaller injectors if you've got control of them. Injectors are NOT carb jets! I run 6 72lb injectors on a 3liter 2JZGTE motor and it idles 14.7:1 or leaner as I desire - no problem. I know guys running 1000cc injectors on the same type of motor daily driven idling just like mine. At some point you get so big the injector cannot be idled but that point is apparently fairly big. My injecotrs are Peak Hold with a resistor pack. In a dry system the injector duty could be modified or the nitrous pill changed in order to change the A/F ratio.

The guys I've seen doing it on the AEM board simply set the VTEC to come in really early, tune, then tune with it off, then they can set the switchover wherever they want and have it tuned in that mapping Sure, it's a pig when it's turned on low but you can tune it. None of the Honda guys have mentioned any special problems that I can recall seeing. Can't you do this same thing with a Hondata?

link is 404

Huh?! VTEC complicates things? Umm, no - turbos and VTEC seem to work just fine judging from the HUGE HP numbers being posted on the AEM board. Those suckers rev to the Moon with a serious kick from the VTEC!

I actually wish now I'd done the 2JZ rather than the 383SBC. One day maybe I'll switch it over if a deal falls my way, we'll see. I like the RB motor too but it sounds like it's not as stout as I'd first thought. Parts availability is the issue though. An SR20 in a 240SX would also be cool

A competant Gynocologist will be able to sort this out. They can tell if the sex was forced and about how long ago it occured. There may also be other physical evidence to prove or disprove the stories. I've not followed the external links or read up on this over what's above but from the looks of it the teacher doesn't seem to be denying the act or that they're simply convicting him in the press - a nearly daily occurance BTW. I too know of others falsely accused who have had no end of hell trying to clear their names. I tend to be very skeptical until the whole process is done....

Can't resist having just come across this in the latest issue of Turbo... "The 2JZ-GTE is the most potent powerplant in import drag racing. Three of the five 6-second Pro cars run the Supra engine and the 2JZ brought home the class championship in the Pro and Street Tire in the 2002 NHRA SC series." No word on what the other two 6-second cars are running, anyone? The VQ probably hasn't competed yet, at least that I know of, so you'd be breaking new ground - and probably parts too. Not only are the motors not super cheap but finding performance parts won't be cheap either unless you make them The VG or RB might be easier if not cheaper. Not being able to swap other manufacturer's motors in SUX

This month's turbo has a custom setup going into an MR2 on a 6Banger that's done this way. The SC has a bypass for cruise conditions that could probably be used when boost from the turbo reached a high enough pressure. Overall I think it would be a PITA and not worth it though. An L28T would be better if an engine swap isn't of interest...

Thepartstrader.com is another good place to find parts - look in multiple forums as you never know where you'll find the parts you need

Somehow I don't think sucking volatile and potentially explosive vapors through a fan is a really good idea. A belt driven fan perhaps but not your average easy to find box fan. One spark could ruin your entire day...

FWIW - max torque around max boost is what I believe the Supra usually see. That's how the Supra guys judge the spool of a Turbo based on a dyno graph. The earlier it spools the earlier the torque peak it seems. Don't rely on the stock O2 for A/F readings, they're generally just good for stoich - period. It IS darned hard to tune "long distance". It'll be an interative trial and error thing. They've probably got a pool of calibrations they've used in the past with various mods but EVERY car is different so don't expect perfection anytime soon. For that matter the end result will likely be a compromise anyway... Personally - I prefer a programmable EMS too but that takes patience and time too <shrug>

Hope to get down again in May Scottie, would love to hook up again and maybe make it to the track. Meeting that guy would be cool too if possible, the Titan guys seem pretty cool. One of these days I may be down to have Nero or Angel tune my car as well. Agreed on what they've done to slow the 6bangers and give the rotaries a break although I think the 20B is going to be outlawed next year A Supra could be gutted to get way down there weight-wise - at least one of them is - but FEW owners seem willing to do so. This coming season will see some SICK Supras out there I like the Nissan truck rear idea if it's strong enough. Realize that the ringpinion in the R200 ought to be okay and if not the R230 but I'm not sure how the rest of the IRS would fare. That's a safety thing IMO as losing the IRS at speed would SUCK! Block filling the VQ sounds like a decent idea IMO. That wouldn't be as good as supporting the top like a block guard does on a Honda but it would be better than nothing. The top is what's unsupported so supporting it would be better but block fill ought to help some...

Thanks for the link BANG - I've been looking fomr someplace like that! Sweet!

I miss my '72 Vega GT. Worn out 350, TH400, 9inch rear with 4.56:1 gears. No speedo but BOY did it scream! Yes, it twisted good - I pinched more than one friend's fingers when they would roll down the window and put their elbow out to hold onto the frame