BLKMGK

There are some foams made for this - talk to a body shop. Sport Compact used it on their 300ZXTT to stiffen the chassis - it's called structural foam. One thing to note - welding of any sort later on will be greatly complicated by the presence of structural foam. I'm sure it can ignite although it's supposedly fire retardent - a welder can get it pretty hot.

Painless or one of the other companies also just came out with a harness, Ford isn't your only source...

http://www.taperformance.com/initial_press_release.htm Wooot! cubic bux I'm sure but WOW talk about a motor with some potential. Light too I'll bet...

Liberty Mutual? I'll add them right next to the snakes at Geico to the list of companies that will NEVER get my money. If you paid for a specific policy to cover up to $11K and they're now declining that I would certainly fight like hell! How did the car get damaged?

Look for a 100% fully programmable AEM EMS to be released for the EEC-IV and EEC-V in the next couple of weeks. If you want "ultimate" this will be it. As I recall the Tweecer modifies just the signal fromthe MAF, is that right? I recall looking at it but cannot recall if that's so or not. IF that's so be careful, fiddling the MAF signal has side effects that most Mustang guys ignore. Same with running different injectors and "calibrated" MAF sensors - it's a bad idea. There was supposed to be a whole bunch of various EEC management systems coming out awhile back but most all of them died on the vine. The AEM is akin to a baby Motec - baby in price only. I'm hoping to get one for my Mustang when it's released.... P.S. What mods have you done that's causing it to ping? I don't think that ought to be happening...

Local Mustang shop uses them, they work fine.

First - I'd dump the stock hood mount. Just drill out the spot welds and run hood pins. They can go right through where the hood bumpers are now - easy install Through the floor mounts are fine IMO. They spread the load over a decent sized area and the JTR mount is THICK. I had to have mine sectioned and they actually stalled the chop saw cutting through it That style works darned good...

Use AN fittings. Don't want to pay the price? Use the steel ones sold at NAPA and hydraulic shops forover the road trucks etc. It's WAY cheaper, heavier, won't strip as easily, and generally has to be crimped on. Best to measure out everything and have them crimp the fittings on for you. It will be SECURE and well worth it. It's what's on my Supra and works well....

I have one of these from http://Hardpipes.com on my Supra. It still flexes,it has flexible couplers like intercooler tubing does. Seems to work pretty well but my motor doesn't move much...

Most ALL of the manufacturers are now making reverse rotation blowers. That's the onlyway that cars like the Cobra coould fit a blower! The S2K Vortech setup also uses a reverse rotation blower. With so little room width wise you have to stick it in front of the motor facing it and run reverse . I'd suggest going ProCharger though

The 13volt requirement was a worry for me - my voltage in the Supra drops below 12volts with everything turned on The new box looks NICE and I will likely buy one and if it's as good as my FJO possibly buy another to have "portable". The Z will get one and I may get my Mustang running with an AEM EMs here soon too. Having tuned with a W/B now I'll NEVER tune without one again - period! IMO this is a "must have" sort of gauge if you're trying to tune and go-fast. Scottie - I think you need one of these! Peak power on the Supra isn't above OEM levels yet and I'm having some serious ignition issues but in some parts of the curve I've gained as much as 50RWHP over the stock OEM ECU Much of this is due to timing, better sequential operation of the turbos, and some BIGTIME A/F fixes - the stock ECU was running 10:1 under high boost I couldn't have done this without an EMS and a W/B. I paid $660 for my FJO and display - this was a DEAL at the time and it has no data collection capability included in that price. Look at the $300 or so pricetag of the Techedge 1.5 w/data collection. You'll need to add $100 or so for the sensor but geez that's CHEAP! Wooot!!!

The drums on my 240 were steel, pretty sure I pitched them though. They were indeed finned. In fact the previous 240 I had also was fitted with steel drums I believe. Have you tried gooing to the parts store and asking for a replacement drum? I'll bet that if they have a repop it'll be steel instead of the more expensive to produce aluminum...

That's a Hi-Fi tape - like high density HDs the arial (sp?) density is very high which means it will take a SERIOUS magnet to overwrite it. It's worth a shot of course but don't expect great results just waving one over it. Head to RatShack and pray they still carry demagnitizers for video tapes and try that Actually, try it several times on both sides!

I've seen conversion blocks for the GM IAT somewhere, I thought it was Electromotive but I'm not seeing it there -> http://www.electromotive-inc.com/sensors.html I'll look around and see what I can find. Here you can find information on a great number of sensors, you could even ask about finding an IAT with nipples actually -> http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=18 http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=78 and http://www.aempower.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=507 should be helpful for the boost solenoid.

http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm I've got a couple of those kits, STILL being worked on by a friend of mine. In the meantime I bought an FJO -> www.fjoinc.com from Horsepowerfreaks.com and LOVE it! If you're tuning seriously, especially a forced induction motor you NEED a W/B or you're flying blind... P.S. Looks like Techedge just came out with an IMPROVED box and will be coming out with another soon that can handle more than one type of O2 sensor. VERY nice IMO!

Ouch!

2JZ in my car with stock turbos appears to measure about 27 inches wide and I think 25 inches long, I may have that reversed I did take those measurements and compare them with the 240Z engine bay. Width wasn't a problem from the looks of it but length would put it pretty close to my Cobra electric fan - you wouldn't be able to run the stock 2JZ clutch fan for sure! One worry would be how wide the engine is down low, the Z strut towers look to be no problem but the frame rails are considerably closer so if the 2JZ engine is wide at the bottom it'll be an issue. I don't THINK it's very wide down low though - the intake certainly isn't on the driver's side and the turbos tuck in some too I think. Somewhere I've got pics of the entire motor on a hook out of the car, I'll look for them! (found 'em!) Some resources that might help -> http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/parts/new_engine/index.html Motor Pics! -> http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/parts/2jz-gte/index.html http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=36104&perpage=40&pagenumber=1 http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=53333&highlight=1jz http://www.tierco.net/92Supra6.html http://www.tierco.net/92Supra.html Look under mods, good site! -> http://www.supras.nl/ Hope that helps some guys....

I think,but am not sure, that Mitsu makes the turbos in the Greddy kits. I can peek at mine and see but I'm pretty sure that I've been told it's a Mitsu turbo. Best place to ask about rebuilds IMO is on Supraforums in one of the tech sections. Many supra run the T-88. Did you win the Auction?

T-88 for a Supra is around $3800 or so with manifold etc.. It's laggy as hell on the Supra 3liter but makes HUGE power. 500RWHP? Oh try a great deal more than that if the RB responds ANYTHING like the Supra. A T-78 will make nearly 700RWHP at 30PSI and at street level boost 550RWHP. The T-88 makes MORE

The VVTI could most likely be handled by the AEM if it was used, it handles VTEC no problem. However the twin turbo clips are cheaper. Honestly THE biggest issue with the 1JZ that I see is the turbos. The MKIII guys have learned that the ceramic turbos can't take but about 15PSI. Considering the motor, if it's built anything like the 2JZ, can take about double that this is a big bummer. The Y pipe at the turbos is also VERY restrictive and sources for better ones aren't plentiful. Custom work would be required and max boost would still be limited This makes 2JZ JDM motor attractive IMO. I know that width could be an issue though with the stock turbos - I'll measure if anyone wants me to. Those turbos on the JDM 2JZ motor are also ceramic and limited, the cams are smaller than domestic market cams, and the injectors are only 440CC. That said, upgrading all of that to domestic market stuff or aftermarket pieces is pretty easy if not terribly cheap($cough$). Injectors and cams would be the easy part since Supra owners upgrade past these pretty quickly although in the Z you could end up needing bigger injectors pretty quickly if you go single turbo - I'm running 75lb ones in my car, others go bigger. One interesting thing - there's currently a bit of a price war starting in the 2JZ single turbo world. For less than $4K you can now have a turbo capable of well over 500RWHP on pump and as much as 700+ on race gas. Imagine 30+PSI of boost. The torque would be ungodly as at just about 400RWHP my Supra is making more than 427ftlbs. Redline would be 7200RPM stock but can be safely bumped several hundred RPM. Oh, and I think we would have to skip the 6spd. It's rudely expensive, no one services them, and spare parts have only just now been released. The length of that trans is bad too. The 5spd isn't as robust but it's supposed to be shorter. I can try to measure the distance from nose of my motor to shifter if that would help anyone. My biggest concern with the 2JZ is the sump position. I'm not sure that there are multiple oil pan sumps with the 2JZ like there is for the 1JZ but this should certainly be investigated before a swap. The 1JZ article on my site MIGHT be of some help here. Needless to say a 2JZ swap is of great interest to me and I'd love to do it myself

I did something like this myself awhile back when I still had the L6 in my car. BIG difference! no more smoked headlight switches with my Hella H4s too. I would STRONGLY urge that the short circuit protection you use - fuse or fusible link - be placed as close to the voltage source as possible. Any short circuit that occurs between the fuse and voltage source will be unprotected so that lead should be as short as possible...

I'd have to agree concerning the sequential except that I think it may make idling larger injectors easier. It's really not a critical thing to have but something I've always looked for. Nothing wrong with the "flash" the DFI has. I've actually built a software "dashboard" for my AEM patterned off of the DFI dash. One nice advantage the DFI has over the AEM is that it will play through the various tables as you step through the datalog. That's a VERY nice feature IMO and one I've asked AEM to add. Personally I think datalogging is VERY important. Being a geek I love to have all sorts of data to crunch and it makes tuning MUCH easier. The W/B is the most critical part for me. Being able to tune cruise to 17:1 and WOT to exactly 11.5:1 (turbo) is critical. Trying to guess A/F sux (been there, done that). A 3rd party W/B with datalogging could always be used with the SDS though - both the Techedge and FJO offer this....

Sure but why beat you head against the wall on something as simple as this? Making extra work for yourself doesn't seem to make sense. GM IACs darned near fall out of trees and finding out the details to setup the $15 dollar Typhoon solenoid is cake too.

Do please keep us posted on the 2J swap. I'd like to do it but am in too deep with a SBC in my car and tearing it apart now would be crazy. One of these days... As for width of the single turbo, give me a month and I'll let you know. There are also SEVERAL new single kits out at "bargain" prices here in the States but it's still not cheap. Less than a T-78 though A cast manifold could be used and there will be a new cast manifold coming out in the future too. Lots of new 2JZ options coming out!

Hrm, it sounds like even the RB needs rodspistons much over 450HP - bummer. That motor sounds like a great way to make big power though with the right mods. As light as the Z is you won't need 500WHP to fly. Mine, with just 300 at the wheels flies. If I can get EFI on it or get around to putting a smaller carb on it it would make even more power. As it stands now I've already beaten one bike that messed with me A 2JZ would be an excellent choice. JDM 2JZs can be had for reasonable prices and single turbo systems for those motors are falling like a rock lately - figures I already bought mine I wonder about the width of the motor though, I'll measure mine when the T-78 is installed and post back about it. 550RWHP on pump is my target and I know of several who have reached it in Supras. Slap a N/A 5speed on it for cheap and use an AEM to tune it. Bob FWIW I don't know anything about PerfectPower but Link, from the research I've done, cannot touch the AEM. There are Link users switching to the AEM I've got articles on my WEB site detailing how to put a 1JZ into a 240Z, a 2JZ should be little different IMO. Another option is to put in a mild SBC. Not fast enough? Spray it! Breakage of things like half shafts and whatnot will be an issue no matter what. The R230 is a great idea but it's NOT a bolt-in and so far no one has a "kit" to install it. ZXT CVs might handle things fine, they might not too depending upon how hard you push it. Personally, I like the JZ option best. I've got a SBC in mine but I desire forced induction and the 2JZ is WAAY smooth. Had I only known...