BLKMGK

As I said - the 6speed is too long, you cannot simply wish and make it shorter. Nor can you easily move the engine forward - it's a straight six like the L6 and fairly long. The 5spd will hold fine in a lightweight Z although the 6spd gearing is VERY nice. If you want it to shift at your elbow perhaps that would work fine. READ the article I mentioned, I believe it details this. If I get a chance I'll measure my trans length. Oh - 6spd Getrag Supra trannies retail around $2K. Yes, the JDM motors make less horsepower. The have smaller injectors, smaller turbos, and the engine management is different. Since to make power you must swap the injectors and the stock twins will NOT fit in the Z engine bay this is no big deal. Wiring up an AEM to run this motor wouldn't be hard - I'd use the Honda 1010 box to do it and load a Supra mapping in it. Don't know how hard it would be to mount, one day I hope to find out

Heh SWEET conversion! Looks like it's being done stateside too This is going to be a VERY nice car and WAY better than the stuff Nissan put out for sale from the factory. AEM ECU too - very sweet. Please keep us posted on the progress - more pics plz!

Shrink tubing over them is also a good thing - keeps dirt out of the braid. It's possible to get grit in there and have it work into the braid weakening the line. My rear SS hoses have shrinkwrap, my fronts don't. <shrug>

All bolted up, back on the ground, rear maybe half full. I'm going to see if it leaks while I'm out of town - if not gas goes in and I fire it up for a cruise aoround the block 8) Need to get new isolaters on top of the rear struts - nuts too. As many times as I've pulled them they're a little worse for wear How should the arms in back look sitting on the ground? Any droop? Mine are dropped a little but the car hasn't rolled yet. I want to say they should be level, back is in the air just a little bit IMO. I'd like to have the angles right to keep the CVs in one piece Have pics of everything but may not have time to post them before leaving town Tuesday morning early. Still need to figure out the E-brake cables. The Wilwood stuff also doesn't have a return spring in them Had to shim one of the calipers sligtly but it all looks good

FJO is the name of the company. http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com is where I bought mine. http://fjoinc.com/ The sensor has gotten crazy expensive for replacements though - over $150. AEM now has a W/B, even a dual channel one for V8s, but no display yet. It's been setup to wire into standalone engine management systems but a display is on it's way and is supposedly already in prototype stages. Replacement cost of those sensors is just $30 or so

With the R230 what shafts are you using? I take it the R200 driveshaft I have wouldn't bolt up - longer diff too? I have high hopes my ZXT CVs will work out but if not it's either R230 or 'Vette rear end. Anyone doing a "kit" for the R230 yet?

LOL! Getting it ready for local cruises and to drive to work to blow some minds. People already freak out at the dyno sheets on my cube wall for the Supra. Rolling in with the Z going Rumpty Rumpty will just be more fun. I think people can identify more easily with the Z too. 8)

Tunnel is the same size - they didn't mske but one floor pan The 6speed is too long to fit. I believe this is detainled in th earticle I mentioned earlier - have you read it?

FWIW - 2JZGTE motor with 8.5:1 compression cranks out 165PSI here. I'd think 8.8:1 wouldn't be too bad but I guess the flow of the head, effeciency of the turbo, and other things would come into play. I've run 10+ PSI on a V8 with 9:1 compression with NO issues. <shrug>

6spd not going to work, page on my site in th epics section has info on a 1JZ swap which woudl be much the same. Skip the goofy trans adapter they did and use the 5spd from an N/A GE car. Sick power can be had from the 2JZ with simple bolt-ons. Mine dynoed 582RWHP on pump 2 days ago

One side CV done - passenger side. Hard as heck to compress the axle - had to lower the coil-over all the way down, compress the strut, and shove it all together. Still putting brakes and whatnot together. Anyone used the Wilwood e-brake setup? It has NO mount! You just have a C shaped bracket that it floats in apparently. Mike@fonebooth.com built this bracket for me a year ago and I'm just now looking at it. The silly pad keeps falling out of the e-brake caliper but I'm pretty sure I see how it all goes together. Hooking a cable to it will be another challenge but for now I'll be happy to get it all together and see if this rattles at all. On a plus note - the stub axcles Ross sold me a year ago have studs that are straight as an arrow. Disk slid right over them with no issues unlike the ones I'd done myself 2 years ago Mine were a bit of a hack job but it worked well at the time. slowly getting there - brackets painted and drying now, may bolt one side completely together tonight and perhaps start finishing the other side - it's bare with the strut on the floor at the moment...

Rear oil leak - for some reason the diff cover bolts were all LOOSE! I've tichtened them and hope to see no more expensive Mobil 1 Gear oil on the ground when I'm done. Old axles popped out now and CVs about to go in! Adapters appear to take 8mm metric bolts. Not sure I'm happy with th ehardware I found but we'll see how it goes. I may yet replace this hardware with ZXT bolts down the line once I know it all fits and doesn't break on the first test drive. Reusing the old stub nuts after cutting out the flattened spots on them. Red Locktite to assist in locking them down. Brass washers under outside flange were reamed to fit over the larger splined shaft. Top side washer under stub axle nut fit fine. Had some trouble with one stub axle - the sheet metal dust cover was slightly flattened on one part of one of them. Bent it out until it no longer interfered when the stub nut was tightened down. Should just fit over a groove in the strut hub..

FJO - it's a W/B and very accurate....

FWIW - my Mustang has only one O2 wired up. It will start and run but a little funky and one bank goes DEAD rich to the point that the catalytic glows The OEM ECU will be replaced with a Mustang unit and AEM W/B

Money sent - let's all pull together on this guys!

Doh! Hit another snag - the washer that goes between the bearing and the bolted down flange (brass in my case) doesn't fit over the larger 280 shaft. Bearings are pressed and packed at this point and I may reuse my old stub nuts with some Locktite. Have yet to pull the old shafts out of the diff or figure out where the gear oil was leaking from but I'm gettin' there!

$800 is below dealer cost I believe. Also, the 1010 box is what AEM is currently using as a "race box" and the connectorspins for the harness are supposed to be fairly easy to obtain. The 1010 I'm looking at is $900 with connectors but I've not quite jumped on it YET

2mins for O2 sounds slow to me and wouldn't that set a code if the O2s were hosed? If it's an '87 it's Speed density - Cali or not. '88s were MAF in Cali only and all starting in '89 were MAF. Totally stock? SD cannot handle changes as well as MAF but it can handle some changes before you're out of it's adjustment range....

No cold start injector on the Ford 5.0.

Kind of pondering intakes, gettng the Victor converted may still turn out not to happen. The StealthRam looks VERY good but costly - with a cowl hood it might fit. I need to measure but I'm not sure I want to spend that kind of money on the intake. We'll see... P.S. Made 300RWHP on primaries only with the carb, secondaries seem to be hosed

Copper spacers were UNDER the stub axle nuts not on either side of the spacers per the assembly manual and the Vic Brit catalog. I don't think I'm going to sweat the spacers - the stub axle and bearings are all being replaced and it looks like both sets of stubs used the 'B' spacer previously. It worked fine before, not sure I want to mess with it too much Anyone know the sizegrade of the ZXT bolts that go into the stub axle? Hopefully the adapter uses the same hardware - was one of Scottie's first run of adapters.

383 SBC, forged guts, Aluminum Edelbrock Performer Heads, Victor Jr, carbed for now, flat tappet cam. T56 trans but it needs a synchro or two to shift perfectly Been spending a TON of time learning the AEM on my Supra and want one on my Z when it's on the road again. Really want to drive it to work! Need to figure out where the oil drained out ofmy rear diff too - hope it's not a seal (sigh).

Hrm, local Nissan dealer sez "That's not a Nissan number, where did you get it?" And when he looked up nuts for an 83 ZX he came up with W1200 Also, the adapters I've got look to use the old ZXT bolts to bolt them onto the adapter where they used to bolt to the axle stub. Naturally I've not got the bolts <sigh>. Much as I hate ot do it I may hit MSA or Vic Brit rather than dicker with the local dealer and risk getting the wrong parts. On the plus side - apparently the bearings were recently redone on my car. The stubs tapped right out with a brass mallet no problem. I'm replacing the inner seals, the outer bearings, and leaving the rest alone. It's actually going much quicker than I thought it would. To reassemble - press outer bearing onto stub, place spacer in middle, bolt stub into strut?

Thanks guys! Going to need those nuts quickly so I might have to squeal with MSA but I'll check the local Nissan dealer first. Glad I checked the length of the shafts before I tried to get them into the car I just hope that I have no issues with these shafts. Others had no problems with the U-joint shafts but I just kept breaking things. Really took the fun out of the car, hope to get that back now!

I'm with Mike, that was a crass comment even if in jest. This is a nice site, don't screw it up.