BLKMGK

Suggest you take a look at the new AEM W/B. It's CHEAP but has no display yet. It can output both 0-5volt linear and a 0-1volt that simulates an OEM O2. You could probably buy one of the DIY displays and reprogram the PIC for the new calibration. AEM is working on a display, this box was primarily for use with aftermarket ECUs but demand for a display have still been great by those users. It uses a cheap Bosch sensor Info at http://Http://forum.aempower.com/bbs/

Couple of things - #1) I DO use a W/B for high load regions and I even use it closed loop. However the AEM allows me to set how much correction I'll allow. I only allow it to remove a limited amount of fuel but I allow it to ADD a decent amount of fuel to try and prevent a lean condition. When you have this kind of flexability you can run the W/B under boost. #2) I've seen the behaviour that was mentioned here - the oscillation. The AEM that I use allows me to setup it's reaction time and how much reaction it will make to try and adjust things. An oscillation like this is uaually caused by the O2 sensor being too far or too close to the exhaust valve. It actually takes a measurable time for the exhaust gas to travel to the sensor (remember how fast a computer can calculate). It's possible for the sensor to react too slowly or quickly and to overundershoot. This will setup a nasty oscillation - it's happened on my car the AEM board has the calcs to figure out how to fix this for that computer, IF the DFI allows you to make those adjustments then you shoudl be able to find out how or maybe use the AEM calcs. #3) Remember that a miss will be seen as lean to the W/B. Since it measures oxygen a miss will show up as a spike in oxygen and look lean. This can cause the ECU to add fuel and it can get ugly. Additional fuel will possibly spike EGT or it might lower it depending on timing. #4) EGT is indeed too slow IMO although I've used an RTD sensor that seemed to react pretty quickly. Unfortunatly it seems I've fried it An EGT can help you tune timing but for A/F I don't like it much - I prefer the W/B. I like EGT for trying to figure out if I'm retarded or too advanced. If you're retarded EGT will be high even if A/F looks okay - burning fuel exits the exhaust still burning. The oxygen can suposedly still burn before hitting the O2. I guess my point is that you need the EGT and W/B together to work best. #5) Timing is bigtime important to make power. What you want is for cylinder pressure to remain constant and high in the cylinder. Too high and it will knock, too low and you don't make power. Timing map will look like wave I'm told. High timing that tapers off at TORQUE peak and then as that passes advances again. You fire earlier to raise cylinder pressure, you fire later to lower it. To do this "right" you need a cylinder pressure sensor, big bux. These can either be drilled into the cylinder or built into a sparkplug and is the best way to setup timing. A few degrees of timing on a friends car made BIG differences in his trap speeds. Always remember that timing changes A/F too. If you advance timing, don't see knock, and A/F goes leaner then I'm told that the ignition is closer to being optimized and that the burn is more effecient. Always watch the A/F as you advance timing becasue you can easily go lean! I've seen a few degrees of timing on my Supra under boost move A/F nearly a full point. If you push timing too far it'll knock, too late and it'll be sluggish and bump EGT. Retarded timing can speed turbo spool but it can be hard on the turbo... Anyway, I hope that helps some. This is all stuff I've learned trying to better tune my car and I think it's pretty accurate unless I've misinterpeted it fromthe tuners who've tried to teach me P.S. I've found that ignition energy can make a big difference on my car. I went from weak coils to strong ones and I can now idle a full point leaner before it will begin to get unstable and I can actually have the car pull some as lean as 16.5:1 where before it would pop and sputter! Iridium plugs DO make a difference BTW and they last awhile if you're willing to regap them after they've worn a little. 8)

Ya' on my site. http://www.blkmgk.com in the Pictures section. Not sure the lite shows up but it's on top of the dash back up near the windshield. http://www.blkmgk.com/Development/TestWEB.nsf/4691e0edd8a01bd6852569ae0075e9c4/53f86e3bc6debea785256a74005dc350!OpenDocument I used LEDs for turn signal and high beam indicators...

I got one with the shift light "attached" - it unplugs easily and you can use a mini light up on the dash to tell you when to shift. Works great and looks good too IMO!

COOL! I have those Zoom articles up on my site if anyone is interested. PLEASE take some pics and tell us more about the car! I really want a JZ powered Z one day - perfect motor for the car IMO. Is that car running a single turbo or the twins? More info wanted for sure. 5spd right? As for the clutches - I'd leave that one in. The ceramic clutch will take getting used to but the solid one would be worse I think.

And it will still be ILLEGAL in the USA. Motorex is the ONLY authorized importer. Any other importer cannot Federalize the Skyline. Bring it into Canada if you wish but you will be unable to tag it legally in the United States. This has been discussed ad nauseum on other forums. Motorex even responded to one thread on Supraforums about this. If you really want the nitty gritty you can look it up there. FWIW - they have to weld in reinforcements on that car to make it legal here.

FWIW - I idle low impedance 72lbinjectors down to 1ms with no problems, one part of my map even goes to .75ms. Some ECUs cannot idle down this low, it will depend on the resolution of the ECU. You can fiddle fuel pressure to get idle PW up if you have headroom up top under boost. Some cars also just hate to idle at stoich and will idle better richer. I can idle my 2JZ as lean as 15.5:1 but it begins to surge - this is with 20degrees of timing. Lowering timing certainly helps and mine is actually higher than stock. What are you using to measure A/F BTW? If it's not a UEGO aka W/B then don't trust it to be accurate except at Stoich.

Looking for a way to suck in air and vent air. I'd like to draw air from behind the radiator and find some way to duct air to the aircleaner, possibly a short NACA duct. CarbonTrix.com has some interesting scoops but rather than sticking up ala WRX I'd like one that's going to sort of drop down behined the radiator like Terry has done. C/F would be nice but not required and I'm not above using an OEM part from some other car.

I don't think anyone has done it however if you're considering doing this ONLY use the new Cobra IRS. It will be VERY expensive since this is a new car. The older IRS is so weak that running it on slicks just once on a Mustang can be enough to break things. I know more than one older Cobra owner who has replaced their IRS with a solid rear

100lb injectors would be (approx) 1KCC - 175lb injectors would be BIGGER. Can you say alcohol? PITA = Pain In The A$$ Sure, TT V8 could be run by most any of these boxes. AEM will have a PNP model sometime in the near future that ought to work with something like a Painless harness. Any of the others could be wired up too. Nothing really special about a TT V8 over a N/A V8 from an EFI standpoint. Bigger injectors, maybe boost control, and a different MAP sensor. No biggie <shrug>

Ya' - can you say monster power? I'm not sure I could see an L6 making that much power as I've seen posts talking about all sorts of problems as Rs go up but hey the new ECUs out there can run 'em

Popular Mechanic has a little bit on the Caddy 16 cylinder motor - sweet looking header! Loooong though. Next year or so will be "interesting".

Cool, will check it out! FWIW - I idle 75lb injectors with a higher than rated base pressure no problem on a 3liter. I know guys running 1Kcc injectors on this motor too - no idle issues. With a good computer these monster injectors idle great! A 2.8 would be a little harder but I think it could be done. I'll be interested to see what power levels people are able to pull out of these motors reliably. I still like the 2JZ or 1JZ swap idea though

Yeah, still some bugs. Howeer the 1.0 software is supposed ot be out any day and should be "fully baked" - the hold up is havoing a conversion utility for older mappings. Half the "bugs" being reported are people who don't know what they're doing, unfortunatly some bugs DO exist. In somehting as complicated as this there will be bugs that the engineers haven't found - even Motec's boxes have a few bugs. BTW - there's only one AEM forums I'm aware of - have you found another? The race box is going to be delayed awhile it seems - sux. How does 10 channel sequential injection and COP sound? That's waste-fire though but the I/O for 10cylinders IS there. I'm now running LS1 coils on my car - wow what a difference! If you can try them do so, it's a powerful coil with an internal ignitor. What kind of I/O will the new box have you're talking about? I/O is WAY important and the more spare stuff the better! $1500 is a great price - glad to see this stuff coming down. Motec had better watch out P.S. "Their" drag car is one they sponser not own. As a result of the owner not being used to their software he decided to not go with the AEM last year, an intermittant in the wiring jumper harness they found after the fact didn't help. This year they will be running the car with the AEM and they've found more power Fact of life - if the airfuelspark is right it doesn't matter which box you run, they will ALL make the same power.

I'd take one. Sure it's heavier and the LS1 makes that power now but I believe there's LOTS of potential left in it. It's just so darned expensive for parts and whatnot I've spoken to a couple of ZR1 owners who are looking into modifying them, sick power! Forced induction makes them shine...

The AEM is a PNP replacement computer. For the platforms they've developed for they HAVE actually built base maps but every car is different and many mods effect things. The AEM doesn't use a VE table although some have figured out how to do it using the fuel table and another table. I've actually been surprised at how VE seems to remain constant despite turbo changes and other things, I don't use the VE method of tuning BTW. Honestly I feel like I've still got alot to learn about tuning but it sure is fun learning this stuff BTW - swapped to a better ignition setup using LS1 coils on my car tonight. I used to get some surging at idle at around 15.5:1, I'm now able to idle stable at 17:1 and it's nearly 18:1 before I get any surging! The LS1 coils have an internal ignitor and are easy to trigger with the AEM vs my stock coils. The "smart" ignitor used to get in the way on my car, now I control the dwell Hot spark baby and pretty cheap too actually. I may also know of another good coil for COP apps - still learning about it though and it owuld need an MSD DIS-4 to trigger it which adds to the cost.

Hrm... TECIII finally got rid of that screw down header for wiring, right? How reliable have they been? The older ones supposedly were more hit or miss. Have you looked at the AEM? I'm pretty impressed with the box and especially the level of support. A whole freaking BBS dedicated to the box, it's nice. I just wish the techs had a little more time to answer questions but they have been good with the phone when I've called. I'm a convert Electromotive is actually just up the street from me but so far I've not run one of their boxes, the TECIII is the best they've produced so far IMO but I don't know too much about it. Is TECIII doing VSS based Boost, trac control, 2-step (using VSS?), automapping with a W/B, trans control, and EGT logging? Does it use all the stock sensors on most cars? MAF and MAP? How much can you log, how fast can you log it, and can you do internal logging? Actually, I'd love to see a features list if it's handy to try and do a comparison. The AEM is a baby Motec (in price) but it needs a few more ignition outputs. I'd like to be able to run direct fire but with just 5 coil outputs I can't. <shrug> I do have 10 injector outputs and the ones I don't use for injectors can be used for other things. IMO the hard part is getting the monkeys who buy these things to understand EFI. Many seem to think that an EMS is a "chip" and that someone will provide them a "base map" and no tuning will be neccessary I've now run into TWO people, locally, who have plugged in an AEM, not done ANY sensor setup, and then wondered why the car didn't idle or drive right. Sheesh! I'd hope that folks here who have run into the limitations of the OEM Datsun ECU aren't in that class having pushed the stock box first. EFI isn't THAT hard to figure out but getting a car running right can be a challenge. AEM doesn't YET have a "universal race ECU" ready but when it is it ought to be sweet and maybe something to consider for the Datsuns - converting one of the PnP boxes might be a PITA. Unfortunatly it'll be a little more expensive but potted to go under the hood and have a Bosch W/B controller inside. Did the TECIII come out with a W/B controller? AEM just announced pricing on their W/B BTW - $400 something with sensor I think it was They're NOT using the NTK sensor.

My understanding was that GM was NOT going to go quad cam on the 'vette but that might have had to do with the last iteration. The concern I had heard was cost and packaging. The ZR1 for instance was quite advanced but costly. People are just now really getting into modifying that motor (from what I understand) and the power levels they're reaching are SICK! I wish the ZR1 motor was more common as forced induction on that motor rocks! I'll never forget an argument I had with a twit on Supraforums about his claim that OHC and quad cam motors always made less torque. He seemed to feel there was something magic about 2 more valves that killed torque and that GM would never put this on their V8s. I brought up the ZR1 and someone else pointed out about 4 motors of equal displacement to current single cam GM offerings that made more torque with more valves and he didn't have an answer I too am an EFI guy. I love computers and can understand EFI, carbs just don't work as well. My current carb setup on the Z was just to work bugs out - my not being able to get the silly secondaries working is a sure sign that I don't know WTF to do with a carb. AEM should have a GM V8 ECU out soon and when they do the Z will go EFI - after I've made the rear bulletproof. I SO look forward to that. Looking back I actually wish I'd gone with a 2JZ and sometimes I even wonder how a Turbo L6 might have been. <shrug> Oh well!

Variable valve timing has been done on some import V8s I believe. IT was apparently considered for the new 'vette too but was considered too costly and too hard to package. They were able to achieve their goals "the old fashioned way" and not be forced into some of the more bleeding edge technologies. Later JDM 2JZGTE had variable cam timing BTW but all it was apparently good for in that app was improved emissions. Pop the hood on a late IS300 or SC300 and you'll see the variable stuff I believe. The SC400 may also have it and I believe that's a V8. It's the domestic V8s that don't seem to be running it. They're larger displacement and to meet their goals it's not been deemed neccessary I guess. It'll happen eventually just like doing away with the valvetrain and going with directly activated valves - it'll just take forever. I'd LOVE directly actuated valves - imagine the flexability that would bring! It would make VTEC look like pure junk.

Ouch! Glad to hear that you made it out okay and that no one was hurt. It's hard not to tell younger folks not to drink&drive, hopefully you'll be able to convince friends just how bad an idea it is. Was there no one out with you? Insurance is going to truly suck after this but hopefully the lesson sinks in. I hope you've not got job that will be impacted by having gotten one of those tickets - I do and am REAL careful....

Actually no it wasn't I that brought up Supras - reread the thread. Supras pick on bikes because they think they might be able to beat them - some Supras have beaten bikes so they try. I don't make excuses for my car I stated facts - the car ought to make more power and it ought to be able to run more quickly than it has. I also stated the reasons why I felt this was so and why why I feel the way I do. What wasn't clear to you? In case you didn't notice I didn't lose any race unless you count my wanting to go faster. I DID state that my car turned faster than a 12 and that I watched at least one other Supra do the same. I was rebutting a quite tired old joke is all 80LT1 - handling wise the Supra are okay. I'll admit I've not ever pushed mine too far but it flat out feels "fatter" then my RX7 did. That car was a go-kart and man did it LOVE to rev! Unfortunatly the motor just wasn't something I was willing to push further than I already had. The Supra is NOT a light car and the targa models feel a little flexible. I ASSume the hardtops are stiffer. Pulling the Targa out makes a noticable difference. I think a bar and some stiffening are on my list, I fear the torque is going to twist my chassis otherwise. Livewire - I don't think the 280 is THAT much heavier. Certainly some but not a dramatic difference. I'm not a 7M fan but that's mostly just because of the headgasket issues. I know these things can be fixed and that some make good power with them, I've not ever owned one. They kind of end up being the poor step child to the JZ motors. At least it's a crossflow motor. I don't know how they compare weight wise, at least one member here has one swapped into his Z. The L6 would be easiest obviously, other members can tell you if the power level you want is easily obtainable. Maybe start with the L6 and consider the 7M later?

Hey' date=' that's what its all about right? No matter whether you're building a Z, or a supra or a honda or a turbo hayabusa, its all about building it in a way that you'll have fun in it. That's whats wrong with ricers. Stickers don't make a car fun. I aim to get my car into the 280-350 hp range, and that's cuz i figure that's what'll be fun. Good handling and a bit of power's all I want right now...[/quote'] My Z dynoed at 300RWHP which is WAY low for a 383SBC. The damned secondaries seem to be stuck I gave up and hope to recover the power going EFI later on. Anyway, 300RWHP in a lightweight Z is a BLAST! It's also pretty easy to break parts at that power level. Are you trying to do that with the L6 or with a V8? The L6 might be kinder on the drivetrain but harder to do. A SBC or Ford would be pretty easy to get 300+ in but beware the torque. Sad but I've YET to launch the Z, everytime I've gotten serious with the gas pedal I've wound up with a snapped halfshaft or in one case a driveshaft coming unbolted. Just be careful and watch the driveline angles, I have a sneaking suspicion some of my issues may be angle related with the halfshafts since no one else seems to have the same problems. CVs will go into my car one of these days. I did actually begin looking over what it will take to do the swap last night so maybe I can get motivated. The Supra distracted me bigtime but I don't see myself adding anymore go-fast parts to it for awhile, just tuning. Maybe I can get the Z going again as it's a blast to drive and there are so few of them around here....

Actually you're right - he cannot "win". He cannot "win" because I don't care. I built my Supra my way to enjoy it and not to live up to what someone else thinks. I know what my driving abilities are and I don't claim they're the best. I also don't claim my car makes more power than it does or that it it has run quicker than it has. I share what I've learned about this car and it's drivetrain with others along with what I've learned building my Z. That's why I come here, not to play who's is bigger. Frankly I'm not even sure what the argument here is. I drive a Supra and he doesn't like Supra owners for some reason. What I've stated about my car and others is truth and it's not like he's going to disprove that. Could the car go faster? Sure! Could it make more power? Sure! Now is someone arguing that that's not true?

Oh where to start... first - my car is a stick. The automatics are what turn out to be quicker in the 1/4. Yes, my car would be quicker in the 1/4 with an auto, my friend running 10s IS running an automatic and a large part of his success is that transmission. I chose a stick because it's what I ENJOY driving and because it holds the power better without expensive rebuilds. His converter is a 4K stall, except for backing up you'd never know it had that big a stall - boost is instant. Ask Scottie how many tenths locking his converter is worth, apparently you don't understand this point. Do I know other Supa owners? Sure, I know four or five of them and at least one is pretty serious about racing his car regularly - hence the 10sec timeslips. Do I speak to other Supra owners about the performance of their cars? Um yeah I sure do as that's a very good way to discern how well MY car is performing. Since it's got a programmable EMS in it that I'm tuning it's helpful to know how their cars perform in comparison to mine - that's the tuning part I mentioned in case you missed it. Tune an EFI system from scratch sometime and then tell me how you just jumped in full boost 100% right off the bat on pump gas - then tell me how many pistons you toasted with that foolish move. A dyno is certainly a tuning device - oddly enough when comparing numbers it helps to compare apples with apples. My car pulled 550RWHP on an eddy current Mustang dyno - these are known for pulling lower numbers than a DynoJet. Since EVERYONE else uses a DynoJet my comparisons are flawed and I hope will compare better DynoJet to DynoJet. Is that a little clearer to you? So yes, I know Supra owners however I'm not one of them bowing to Toyota like some God or running around with the belief that without my Supra there would be no life. I bought the car because it was capable of going fast and if something better came along I'd sell it in a heartbeat just like I did my FD3. The new Cobra is tempting, maybe a used one someday. As for boost and who runs what well - truth hurts. If someone doesn't run full boost because they're trying to work out an issue with a transmission but still runs a 10.4 then I'd say that's impressive. If I don't run full boost on my car because I'm trying to learn how best to launch it then so what? Throttle may be progressive on your bike but if you spent a little time looking at a dyno curve from a Supra perhaps you would understand why traction becomes an issue. Hint: gain 200+ HP in less than 1K RPM - then try to hook it without slicks. Unfortunatly it seems in my case I'm trapped in a paradox - I can run lower boost by swapping my W/G spring but then cannot run full boost up top. The spring that's in there runs 1.2BAR and no less - that's plenty to break traction with on the street. I may relent and go with a lower spring so that I can ramp boost with MPH and just give up the ability to run 30PSI at the track on those rare occasions. The track is far enough away I won't spend much time there anyway. Wish there was a better midleground As for racing a Supra on the highway - that was a general statement. In general, since it needs to be crystal for you, it's not a good idea to run a Supra on the highway. That is where they shine. Run one from a slow roll or from a stop - your chances of winning are better. As for looking at a tailpipe - if I'm behind the car and considering racing it then yeah I'll look. Especially if I know that looking for such a thing will give me some idea as to it's power potential. Nitrous causes this too? Terrific, then it would seem that's yet another reason to check. Wings and stickers can be removed - duh. I guess you'll have to look for the brakes or maybe squint for the intercooler in the passenger side fender - good luck. Okay, here's a possible way - is it a hardtop? Most turbo Supra are targa, there are probably more hardtop N/As but that's not a sure way to tell. Bulletproof - again you generalize and denigrate with "boys". Yes, the car is pretty bulletproof. I'm sorry if every Supra you've ever encountered chose not to run 100% - that's their choice. I'm happy with the number that I managed to run but even happier with the amount of data I gathered and that the car survived 16 nearly back to back runs intact. You apparently like bikes since every third post you make talks about them, perhaps you would be happier on a bike forum? IMO you're not being civil but I guess "opinions vary" huh? Hey, maybe I could typify you as a typical bike rider? Cocky and always talking about how cagers are slow? I'm being attacked - of course I'm defending myself. Livewire - I hear where you're coming from. If I see a 13 second Honda I usually don't think much of it but when you consider the displacement that's not a bad time. Bottles of soda have more displacement in some cases! Kids with Hondas often build them because it's what they've got and what they can afford. I'll never forget a kid locally with a Honda who was quite proud of it. It wasn't my "thing" but something he said explained alot - he said "I did it all myself". Granted there are times when we all wish they just wouldn't but there's something to be said for a guy making whatever he's got run quick(er) with his own money and thought. I roll my eyes when I see some Hondas but others are REAL clean and they deserve some respect even if they don't run single digit 1/4miles. Hondas don't do it for me, nor do bikes actually, but I have to admit that a little turbocharged Honda spinning 8K+ RPM would be a neat ride no matter the displacement. So would a turbo 'bussa if I survived the ride