proxlamus©

Scott, this is very interesting that your using an SAFC on the VG30ET.. I attempted to use one on my L28 and had terrible failure. Search around the Honda and DSM forums about the SAFC as they have plenty of walk throughs.. Make sure the voltage for the MAF matches the SAFC's allowable inputs.. one reason my AFM didnt work with the SAFC. Maybe the VG's MAF (versus AFM) will work out Why dont you mod the Z31 ECU?! seems a bit cheaper and easier to do!

Hahaha.. I dont know if you guys have had a girl in the passenger seat and had them ask where the door handle was and couldn't figure it out.. but this video describes it perfectly.. hahaha NOT SAFE FOR WORK 1978 tool shed = my z since im always fixn the thing on the road http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkNOsUrFsfg

I am going to test some things to see if my engine is smoking or if its the turbo. I was going to un-bolt the 4 bolts holding the turbo onto the manifold and rotate the turbine housing down and run an open manifold. This way I wont have to remove the turbo and block up the oil lines.

600 hp! holy freakn crap!

Tim I checked the PCV valve... it is flowing propely.. opens during vacuum closes during boost. with the car idling I can tell the block is under vacuum, as when I pull my oil dipstick you can hear the baby hissing... so that's a good thing. I think I will try pulling the turbo off and driving it around for 10 minutes or so.. if the car smokes its the engine. If it doesnt smoke I know its the turbo.

I love my Greddy type RS

Well I am running the STOCK oil lines.. I noticed almost everyone on this board has ran stainless braided lines... hurmm

What do you guys think of an engine driven or electric vacuum pump!? Alot of the big drag cars, with a low idle vacuum use these to decrease blow by?! Airplanes use vacuum pumps as well. Maybe I can grab a Volvo or SAAB "cruise" vacuum pump and maybe generate 18" in. hg. and see if it'll fix anything.

Ok i'm reading the Holset HY35W service manual. Oil leaking from the turbine housing indicates the following : *Restrictive turbocharger oil drain line (remove restriction or replace damaged parts) *Restrictive engine crankcase breather (refer to engine manufactors manual, clear restriction *Turbocharger bearing housing sludged or coked (change engine oil and oil filter, overhaul or replace turbocharger) *Worn engine pistons rings or liners (refer to engine manyfactureres manual and repair as required) *Burnt valves and/or pistons (refer to engine manyfactureres manual and repair as required) *Excessive dirt build up on compressor wheel and/or diffuser vanes (clean in accordance with details in appropriate Holset publication *Turbocharger damaged (find anc correct cause of failure, repair or replace turbo as necessary) Could the turbo be coked?! well thats a possibility... Worn engine rings/pistons rings?! Well no because all of my cylinders read the same compression and my plugs are not fouled. Bad valves or valve seals?! If oil was leaking through the valve seals or valves, the smoke would occur on start up.. NOT after 5 min and the exhuast is nice and toasty. Plus my plugs would be fouled with oil correct?! Turbo is clean clean clean.. so I have no effn idea

well the turbine bearing is METAL so unless there is tons of shaft play, there should be no reason to smoke. I could have blown the rubber o-ring.. but damn.. i dunno

Ok.. I added an oil restrictor.. no change I added a large PCV setup.. no change spark plugs are clean, compression numbers are fine across the board. Minimal shaft play.. What the hell is going on??!

Than you 510six.. on the 2 fittings, do I hook one up to the intake manifold?!

Chris you have to remove the wastegate housing on the T3, then attach the downpipe. Should go Turbo, wastegate housing, downpipe on the 280zx setup. with the 300zx downpipe the order is Turbo, downpipe. The 300zx downpipe has the wastegate housing and downpipe built into one. Im not ripping ya off Chris =) it fits trust me

OMG this is insane. maybe he is makn a mold and casting them?!

I think they means SDS, Haltech, Wolf 3D etc on Z cars

damn! still smokes.. must be an engine problem. I guess I should pull the turbo and see if the engine smokes then without the turbo

I just wanted to the first to be on this part of the forum!

well... maybe a compression test... metal or paper head gasket? this will make a difference. do you know the cam specs?! anyway.. a shaved head, will increase the Compression Ratio. So depending on the pistons, and cylinder head (p90, n47 etc) this will all vary. tell us some specs

Roll bar's and half cages are awsome FULL cages with roof bars and a halo would be very dangerous on the street car unless you had lots of padding.. ask 240hoke about his head bump during his accident a few years ago, and this was without a cage. A roll bar will help in the evnt of a roll over obviously and a side collision if at the right part of the car. 4 point belts and seats to keep you IN and not sliding around would be beneficial.

you sold the arcade machines?! and the KIDS! LoL those machines were awsome Brian!

aim : yinsaneasylum name : Ryan

Ill be finding out tomarrow, its too dark out tonight to drive it around and look for smoke. But im willing to bet it will fix the problem. Alot of DSM and Honda tech forums have alot of info on using a restrictor with the Holset turbos. So I think this is the best route.

My conversion consisted of: - 280zx (1982) 10.25" rotors (don't use the 84 300zx 11.4" rotors unless you have the modern-motorsports or custom adapter) ($45) - Nissan 200sx calipers (similar to 240sx or 2nd generation Maxima calipers) (FREE) - Modified Nissan Maxima rear adapters. (4 bolt design, but I cut off the corner and 4th bolt hole to allow easy access so I dont have to remove the stub axle) ($80) - Total - ($125) =) First Here is a picture of the Z's rear drum brakes on my 1978 280z. Pretty aint it? After tapping on the rear with a rubber mallet, the front drum cover pops right off and behold the glory if dirty drum brakes. Take a sawzaw or a 4" cut off disc and cut away on the rear backing plate for the drums. Major PIA, and you have to cut it in 2 diff places, or the plate will not come off. Yes, your sawzaw or cut off disc will not get to the bottom, so I tried to cut down the the bolt holes, and I used a BIG pair of pliars and wiggled it around for a while untill the metal became fatigued enough to break. (You dont have to do this if you remove the stub axle which is a major PIA) Yay it came off.. (2 hrs later SOB) This is my caliper choice. I got them from a friend for free, I later found out the are from a 200sx. (very very similar to the 240sx and 2nd generation Maxima calipers) I LOVE these because I was able to use the STOCK rubber lines! score! NOW one important note which isnt found typically on write-ups. "L" normally means "drivers side" and "R" means passenger side. Well on a Z with a different geometry due to the bracket, you must SWITCH the sides around. I know annoying huh?! Trust me I found out the right way Now my e-brake arm was fixed on the cast caliper. The 240sx caliper allows some adjustment and is removable, but the arm will be VERY close to the rear sway bars, but won't rub. I am using 1" thick MSA sway bars as an upgrade it it's a little tighter fit. More pictures, and a peak at using the STOCK e-brake setup, and a handy dandy bolt to holt it together. Yes it works. Now remember.. bleeder nipple is at its highest point. This is so the air can be bled out of the system!! Pretty huh?! I bled the crap out of the system, i was unfortunate and got alot of the air in the system as alot of my threads can attest to. I am not using a different proportioning valve, but it has a very nice balance. I'm happy. But don't give up! I should prob take pics of the wheels and the rear brakes since it looks so damn good. LoL. Anyway.. questions?!

Well.. I have been having really bad problems with my Holset HY35W blowing oil out of the turbine oil seal.. First I checked my crankcase pressure and there was so much pressure, the oil was not draining out of the turbo, so it backed up and went out into the turbo. Typical signs include burning blue smoke once the car is warmed up and the exhuast is burning the oil. FIRST thing to check is the PCV setup. I added one with some good results, just not perfect. Rather than spending $15 from ATPturbo or another company and finding the right thread pitch and length and size of the oil inlet, I said screw it and fab up my own. I used the stock banjo bolt that came on the 280ZX turbo's and I am still using the stock oil lines. (12mmx1.5 pitch BTW in BNPT (yes british)) I went ahead and cleaned, wire brushed and de-greased the banjo bolt. I then welded up the opening. I took a 1/16 (.060) drill bit and drilled through the weld. Tada, my own oil inlet restrictor. I can increase or decrease the size if I choose. (yeh it looks ugly but hell it works) Now I called Garret and they recommended an inlet size of .035 for their ball bearing turbos. ATPturbo sells a inlet restrictor of .060. Depending on the turbo the size of the inlet will differ. Remember too small, you'll run the turbo dry on oil and damage the seal from oil starvation. Too big you'll blow the seals out from excess pressure. DO YOUR HOMEWORK!

anyone using a restrictor on a Holset turbo?! im having some weird problems with oil blowing out of the seal, I tried a new PCV setup without much luck. Im still running stock lines, I kinda want to just "bend" it and reduce the flow. But that would be the wrong way to do it lol