proxlamus©

FIXED it!! I bled all four corners then the master. All four corners then the master All four corners then the master, then A BUBBLE came out of the Master front! there was a bubble stuck inline somewhere in the system and even after pumping and pumping and pumping the open M/C with a hose and seeing no air bubbles, going around all four corners several times and back to the master worked. How frustrating. Anyway... THANK YOU SO MUCH GUYS! its not perfect yet, but itll give me enough time to buy a proportioning valve and re-bleed the system. Having a Z as a daily driver SUCKS! especially if its your ONLY car!

yeh sorry about the confusion.. I took a pic of how the setup was, then decided to try swapping the "L" caliper to the right side of the car, where the nipple was ontop. So yes it was the same caliper, and 2 diff pics. The last post I made with 4 pictures (post #6) is accurate on how its setup right now. is that correct how its setup now?!

Ok I switched everything around, added the e-brake. now my pedal pressure is WORSE than it was before. I bought a mity-vac and have ran around all 4 corners of the car AGAIN. nothing. Does this look right to you guys now??! Drivers Side Passenger side

hmm.. I think I have a 200sx caliper

Ok.. Im freakn out. LoL I purchased some Maxima brackets, and 280zx (1983) rotors (10.25") and some random calipers from a friend. They look to be Maxima calipers, but I need some help identifying them. I installed them like the following ... and had a soft pedal and some air in the system. In addition, the arm for the e-brake attachment hits the brake line bracket on the car! and bent it upward! SOO I figured.. maybe I will put the caliper marked LEFT which I had placed on the drivers side to the passenger side. This is fine, but now the arm looks like it will hit the sway bar! and the hose is ABOVE the bleed line, which doesnt seem right at all. Which way is the right way?! I'm going crazy!

lol with the car titled back, its increasing the angle of attack on those pallets. im shocked not enough lift was generated to make those bad boys fly away

I called Garret (yeh i have a holset but anyway) they recommended I get an oil restrictor.. maybe down to like .120 or .080

I just finished bleeding the master, I bled one "reservoir" at a time, slowly. the pedal did get a bit firmer, but still slides to the ground. if I pump it quickly, I get a firm pedal, if I push slowly it goes to the ground and is soft. I attached a hose to the MC bleeder, ran the tube into the reservoir and made sure it was submurged under the fluid and I pumped slowly about 10-15 times about. After bleeding the MC should I then go back to all four corners?!

Well I pulled the plugs, no oil on the plugs.. so i'm not burning oil in the cylinders. as for the turbo, the compressor housing and intake piping is clean with no oil residue. the turbine housing is coated in oil. I checked the drain line, I installed the PCV which is workn, as I can hear it hissing when I pull the oil dipstick. Oil smokes at idle, and on deceleration. pretty blue smoke, and only when warmed up. anything else i can try?

I have not. thats a very good idea. Why would I be able to squirt fluid out of the calipers with no air bubbles, but air trapped in the master cylinder?!

i bought an INLINE PCV valve today and used a plugged port. car still smokes. this sucks

Ugh.. everything that can go wrong does I changed over to rear discs today, and my car is a piece of crap. "L" went to the drivers side. "R" went to the pass side 240sx calipers 280zx (83) rotors Maxima brackets everything is sealed, and there are no leaks. the bleeder is above the brake line I have gone through half a bottle of fluid now. Process is rear right (pass) rear left (drivers) front right (pass) front left (driver). I have done this process about 5 times all the way around. Bleeding each about 5-6 times. No bubbles no air. The pedal has some pressure but it goes to the floor. I am not using a proportioning valve for now. My drums were grinding and I needed to quick fix. I understand that I wont have clamping force on the rear, but does this explain my lack of pressure? cant get any pressure. help

Well, I have owned 2 Z motors now, a N42 block and a F54 block. I have been having major issues with smoking pouring out of the exhuast and I am burning oil. When running an N42 intake manifold, and a turbocharger unfortunatly I am unable to used my PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve on the bottom of the intake manifold. This uses the intake to create a vacuum in the crankcase of the engine and create a good seal between the rings and also pull oil from the turbo. Alot of Z guys just run the crankcase breather tube and valve cover breather OPEN or with a filter. One problem is engine breaths.. literally.. and all the blow by and crap in the crankcase goes OUT. this clogs the filter which increases positive pressure. continue reading why this is bad. Positive pressure is bad. why? When the crankcase is pressurized, there is so much pressure, the oil trying to drain out of the turbocharger can't fall into the oil pan. It has no where to go but back up and OUT! This overloads the oil seal, and the oil seeps into the exhuast and turbine blades. The heat from the turbo and hot exhuast causes the oil to smoke and burn, resulting in a cloud of smoke. Typical signs of this include - NO smoke on start up. Lots of smoke once the exhaust warms up. Oil in the turbine housing and the exhuast. BLUE smoke. Clean spark plugs. Clean intake piping. Has anyone else experienced this? or am I the lucky one to get it twice in a row on two seperate motors.

I drew this picture a year ago after I took an aerodynamics course. How did my guestimation come out?

I ran a compression test on my motor (F54/P90 stock dished pistons) and a fel-pro headgasket and I yeilded 135psi across the board. Keep in mind I am at 5,700 feet so the numbers will read lower. I installed a 2mm headgasket and new cam, did another compression test and I get 100psi across the board?! WTF! the bolts are torqued to spec, copper spray on the headgasket, wtf. The test was done while the motor was HOT, dry, every plug removed, full open throttle, each cylinder tested for 6 seconds. After doing a WET test I have 110psi across the board.

how far were the VG's placed on the roof line from the top of the rear window seal?

CLICK ON THE THUMBNAIL I made this from Home Depot too.

I was thinking of doing my own, but I figured after the cost of the tubing, a bottle of gas (since im still only doing flux) and a tubing bender this would be the cheaper route. OK bolt it in! thanks!

http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=AP170 also MSA sells em too

man that plenum is tiny

LoL thats awful my very first weld I did even without reading up or practicing looked better than that

I think thats everyones dream lol

I am buying the Autopower "scca/race" roll bar tomarrow... I know its designed to be bolted in, but do you guys (cough Jon) think I should bolt it in or weld the bad boy in my Z?!

i learned from zcar.com i made a boo boo. I didnt adjust the valves after adding the shim *ugh* anyway what can you guys tell me?!

what rpm does the sputter kick in on? only under boost ?