proxlamus©

I figured I would write a quick review for those interested in upgrading their clutch on their Z .. Now by all means, I am a terrible terrible writer, so bear with me.. First off I started worrying about the clutch once I upgraded my N/A engine, and bolted on a turbo and some beefy injectors. I noticed heavy slippage around 10psi and it just got worse over time, so I knew I had to upgrade. Running the stock OEM clutch on a 225mm was not fun. I found a cheap 240mm flywheel, and chose to get one of the best... an ACT Stage II heavy duty pressure plate rated to handle 500ft/lb and a ACT organic street clutch. I chose the sprung organic street clutch because I drive nearly 40 miles a day in my Z so I needed something driveable. The swap went rather pleasant, I noticed EXEDY was stamped on the pressure plate and clutch disc, but I guess ACT installs firmer springs in the units or something. Upon startup the clutch was much stiffer than stock but nothing too bad... this clutch chatters ALOT especially with this heavy duty pressure plate. After about 600 miles of break in I could actually see how this clutch engaged.. this clutch performs like a performance clutch should (especially for $450) and made very very firm engagements.. took time to get use to slipping the clutch a little. After 3,000 miles I noticed the clutch was VERY hard to shift into 1st at a stop, and engaging in reverse was hell. Why is this? Well the metal fingers on the pressure plate began to break in, and I needed a longer pedal throw to full disengage the clutch. I chose to upgrade to a Nissan Pathfinder 1988, 11/16 slave cylinder, as this unit is much smaller than the stock slave cylinder. Having a smaller cylinder will give you a much longer throw. Only downside is a firmer pedal. Installed it in 15 minutes and everything was great! and for $16 ? you can't beat that! Now the clutch has 6,000 miles, and I am having shifting problems, and I can not shift into 1st or reverse at a dead stop. Infact I had to rev to 3,500 RPM for the clutch to slip enough to go into gear... can the pressure plate be completly broken in now?? jeesh I hope.. this sucks.. Soo i bought a new OEM master cylinder, thinking I had a leak or something, no luck. I decided to upgrade to a 3/4" Tilton universal master cylinder from the old 5/8" stock unit. Why? Having a larger diameter master cylinder displaces more fluid, which on the slave end, gives you a longer throw. Advantages were less pedal pressure, and more pedal throw. Everything was perfect after the 3/4" Master Cylinder, however because I still had the 11/16" slave, the pedal pressure was.. well.. extremely stiff.. my girlfriend couldnt even disengage the clutch .. haha.. My recommendation is upgrade to the 3/4" Master cylinder, and keep the STOCK slave cylinder.. and be DONE WITH IT... the master cylinder was $79 and I needed a flared fitting which was $17. I've spoken with alot of guys who are running ACT clutches and other performance units, but they have not had any problems, partially because they have not put on as much miles as I have, and mine is definatly broken in. (notice the coat hanger on 2 bolts to hold the flywheel still as I tightend the bolts) Good luck!

those welds on the audi manifold look like a machine did it! wow! mmm .. yummy manifold

Rick did you have any luck with this ?? im about to buy 3/4" just wanna make sure itll work

oh crap.. i cant wait for this.. Garrett!! *slaps hand* be patient.. am I on the list for the first run that hasnt been pre purchased?

yeh I swapped to a F54/P90a ... the old motor was smoking really bad.. rather than rebuilding it or finding what the problem was I got a deal on a complete turbo motor.. plus with the Holset .. 18psi on the n/a motor scares me.. lol soo I figured lower compression would be great

cant view it unless your a member

I asked if there was a definate date.. and I re-read the thread and realized its on the first post... so im an idiot.. lol sorry!

nm im retarted

wow!! I want I want!

Ferrari F40 240ZG with a RB26DETT BMW M3 with some yummy air horns Ferrari F430 (ohh the sound) Audi Quattro S1 or the Lancia Delta Integrale

old corroded shorting out wires = stock harness nice work.. but why not a new harness?

my dad hates my car.. which is why he wouldnt let me do it in the garage.. he tells me everyday to sell the rusty piece of **** .. or he will light it up in flames.. my mom hates the car.. she thinks its too fast for a 20 year old... i dont care.. its the Z I love.. i even sacrafice a ticket doin an engine swap in the street.. mailman approved it.. haha

my Z is a piece of sh!t and I hate it..

lol cool

one mig isnt enough.. so two will do ? LoL.. aww ol blue is gone?

Horizontally opposed engines sound distinct because of alternate firing.. In a two-cylinder, horizontally opposed engine, the pistons are timed so that one fires on one revolution of the crankshaft and the other fires on the next revolution -- so one of the two pistons fires on every revolution of the crankshaft. This seems logical and gives the engine a balanced feeling. To create this type of engine, the crankshaft has two separate pins for the connecting rods from the pistons. The pins are 180 degrees apart from one another. this diagram is similar to the subaru firing.. this diagram is a V6 though.. but you get the idea this diagram is for a even fire motor like a Honda.. NOT a subaruso in a 4 cylinder... one pistons fires for every 180 degrees of rotation.. like your Honda Civic or a Acura Integra etc etc.... Subaru's have ODD firing.. which gives it the rumble.. similar to a Harley Davidson http://www.epi-eng.com/ET-PistonExcit.htm this page has LOTS of info reguaring engine pulses and even firing or odd firing

Alrighty.. let me chime in.. Formula One cars and Ferrari's sound sooo amazing simply because of the tremdously small pistons and small stroke... The Ferrari F40 for example is a 2.9L V8 with a 82mm bore and a 69.50mm stroke... this rev's up to 10,000 RPM... and produces some 478 hp Formula One engines and (quote from formula one.com) "the 'power battle' of the last few years saw outputs creep back towards the 1000 bhp barrier, some teams producing more than 300 bhp / litre in 2005, the final year of 3 litre V10 engines. From 2006, the regulations require the use of 2.4 litre V8 engines, with power outputs likely to fall around 20 percent. Revving to over 19,000 RPM a modern Formula One engine will consume a phenomenal 650 litres of air every second, with race fuel consumption typically around the 75 l/100 km (4 mpg) mark. Revving at such massive speeds equates to an accelerative force on the pistons of nearly 9000 times gravity. Unsurprisingly, engine failure remains one of the most common causes of retirement in races." The old turbo formula one engines were a 1.5L V10 .. thats right 1.5 L!! For 2006, the engines must be 90° V8 of 2.4 litres maximum capacity with a 98 mm maximum circular bore, which imply a 39.7 mm minimum stroke. They have two inlet and two exhaust circular valves per cylinder, are normally-aspirated and must have a 95 kg minimum weight. Thats right .. a 39.7mm stroke.. OMG

holy hell dude.. that intercooler is massive.. i thought my NPR was big.. but damn!

ummm.. copper is a soft metal.. soo i dunno about that http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2540/article.html "Generally speaking, aluminum seems to be the material of choice for all automotive heat exchange, but there are other materials that offer distinct advantages and disadvantages. Silver, for example has a lower coefficient of heat than aluminum, and will support more heat exchange in an otherwise identical situation. The price increase is surprisingly small as well. For air to water cores, copper offers even better heat properties at a fraction of the cost of both aluminum and silver. Unfortunately, due to copper's corrosive properties, it generally isn't appropriate for street use in an air to air situation." Soo.. I guess Copper has very bad corrosive properties.. which is a no no

NPR will be fine

*cough* damn you Austin.. dammnn you!! i mean.. so hows the progress on the protoypes?

im interested Mike

sent ya the pulsewidths on aim.. ya get em?

parking lights are for "parking" you turn them on when your parked and your engine is running or your in it .. side of the road you use hazards

ohh yeh definatly me too.. count me in