19762802+2

He posted about it on ratsun but I believe he used TTT camber plates front and back.

280zx, 240z,260z? Year?

Alot of factors go into if the head will work for you sure at sea level with a very fine tuned EFI and good 91 octane it could run well. At a higher altitude it could be a different story, the mn47 makes a good race head and BRAAP actually recommends the p79 and p90 both almost identical except for the exhaust ports. Go read some of the FAQ and you'll find BRAAP's stuff and learn about the motor's and what you want. I ran a stock p79 on a stock flatop block with 240z SU's and loved it made 150rwtq at 6200 ft on 91 and running a bit rich. Granted the caxr was a gutted 260z coupe it was just as fast as my buddies foxbody mustang and torquey as heck. If I had kept the car I would have had the head built and a nice ITB setup or similar and Megasquirt and would hace totally been happy if I could have broke 200rwtq

I had 14 inch appliance meshies on my 240sx brake conversion they rubbed slightly nothing a small spacer couldn't fix. You can't run dynamic tape weights though has to be static on the outer half of the rim or it will rub.

Nuh uh It's like fast and the furious tokyo drift you have to spend a day in the canyons to beat DK then you are seriously drifter YO!

With the dished pistons you would lose the quench effect you would have with the flatops, so it would be pointless check out zgarage.com. The p79 or p90 can be a great NA street head with flatop's there are a few stickies about it.

No problem haha here is my personal favorite.

Rockauto has a 20b powered race car.

You could get a 3psi carter pump but I don't know if that will flow enough fuel to feed the carbs without the bowls going dry at high rpm. I've usually ran a bigger pump and just used a regulator. Using a mr. gasket 7 psi is too much without a regulator I know I used the same pump and had the same issue, I personally don't like to run that pump anyway's. Holley's and Carter's are good pump's Mr. gaskets tend to fail alot.

yes you need a regulator. the pressure at the carbs should be 3.5psi.

I bought a Z that had been sitting in a field broke down a mile from where I bought it. Got it home swapped in a p79/f54 l28 from the junkyard with unknown miles using roundtop carbs and got it driving within a week and daily drove it from fall to spring. Sure it caught fire, the brakes went out twice, the interior was gutted, had electrical issues, but everything I could fix in a day and it never left me stranded and was quick and seriously fun to drive in the mountain roads. Granted I did have a stockpile of parts to work with mostly the motor and brake parts otherwise the car did me good.

lasts longer then a belt or chain I believe plus gear driven cars have a unique sound. might even rev better? I'm not sure hoping someone else will chime in.

Kennedy Engineering also does a lot of Adaptor plates and even flywheels. I'm using them for my Subaru Swap in my Beetle.

The owners username is RS speed he actually posted on the previous page.

I should have weighed my 260z before I sold it, I had the interior completely stripped except for Eclipse GS seats and the stock dash, Had the 4 speed with a p79/F54 and SU's and a R180, 14in Appliance meshies. The car felt pretty light and was pretty quick too.

Wow I've worked at a Tire shop for a long time and I can say I've never seen anything like that. Was it the Collapsible type spare or a full spare?

TA-71b Sounds like it would be an Automatic, but I wouldn't know.

All you have to do is take of the bell's, depending on your year it should be 4 or 3 screws holding the bell's on, then carefully pull the piston out, You don't want to bend or damage the needle, poor the oil out of the middle shaft, put the piston back in very carefully so you don't screw up the needle, put the bell back on and fill with oil, I use Auto trans fluid which should be about SAE20 and it works fine for me. You don't necessarily have to take it all apart and drain the old oil, you could just top it off, but if you want to change the viscosity or just have new oil in the pistons then I would do it like I explained. Is there a difference in resistance when you push the piston up? if it's low on fluid it will be easier to push up and vice versa.

Well it sounds like your running really rich on the first carb. Have you tuned it recently? I would check the carb oil as well, not having enough oil will cause the piston to rise too fast causing it to go rich.

Have you checked the oil in your carbs? Is the car warmed up when you try to drive it? Does it stumble when you put it in gear and try to go?

I for one enjoyed this thread anytime I can learn anything and have datsuns involved is a win win for me.

Reliant Robin

Yup that will do it, The hazard switch is part of the circuit for the blinkers.

If it's a earlier S30 try the hazard switch, if the hazards work then its probably your blinker relay if they don't work its probably your hazard switch is broken or needs to be clean. If it's anything other then a S30 I have no Idea.

That sucks. I'll watch for them on craigslist some people...