19762802+2

The EFI harness is seperate from the rest of the electrical harness and you should be fine running without it the only thing that wont work anymore is the fuel pump the wiring under the dash goes to the EFI relay and some other things, I have my EFI harness out and I'm running SU's and nothing has changed except I had to wire in a New pump for the Carbs. Different years might be different though a later 77-78 Z might have more incorporated but I would just go through the FSM to be sure.

I was having this same issue, I put some SU's on my L28 with a 5-6 psi pump and after some trouble shooting I figured out that my pump was pushing too much PSI and filling up one carb more then the other or it would cause it to Overflow with fuel, while this happened the motor wouldn't rev and sounded like a Lawnmower. (This was also due to me cutting off the return line restrictor hole, which I thought wasn't necessary.) After I put on a 2.5-3 PSI electric pump and fixed the return line so that it held some back pressure, my car has been running fine after that.

I used electrolysis to remove any rust from my suspension parts but it also did a good job of getting most of the gunk off, Do it overnight use a wire brush on a drill and shines up really good and no more rust.

There is always rust, just depends on how the car was treated to determine how much there is. My friend just bought a 510 wagon thats been sitting for 20 years and Colorado is fairly dry most of the time and his car has some bad rust spots. I would poke around the sound deadening with a screwdriver it usually hides under there and if it sat outside there might be some in the cowl area if there is a large build up of leaves. I would check under the fenders as well. Just go for what you want and be prepared for the work.

You should pick up TurboHLS30's Cartech surge tank or find a HKS surge tank and make a Turbo ITB setup that still looks oldschool.

Doesn't MSA offer some aftermarket Urethane Strut tops that are adjusted for more camber?

Well I was under the impression that people argue that point because with the FWD platform there are some troubles with handling because of certain things that a FWD has such as different length CV axles causing torquesteer and the wheels to turn different speeds then one another, also the weight directly over the drive wheels, granted anything can be fixed or made better with time and money but most street driveable FWD cars have problems with understeer for various reasons. This can be different in a Race car but FWD cars just have a different battle to fight when it comes to overcoming certain problems as opposed to RWD cars, doesn't make them any better or worse just a different way to approach it. I believe a lot of the FWD sucks compared to RWD comes from Drag racing since FWD can have issues with Weight transfer and traction loss at takeoff.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?31150-Trust-exhaust-manifold-from-Japan

My tokicos are older I believe nothing printed on them at all and I bought them from someone who bought them from MSA a while ago and mine are blue.

They should still make Kuhmo AST's in that size, I work at a tire store and I still see that size, you might have to go up a profile size to find something like a 225/55/15, not sure if that is around either but it would be something to check. 15" wheels are getting less popular I usually only see them on older cars or Mini-vans and usually nothing decently wide. I know they still make 255/50/16's and 245/50/16's but that style should stay for a while since its a common size for Camaro and Firebird guys.

That looks like it handles awesome Dailydrifter. Also I think 16's look awesome on Z's just perfect too bad there isn't a better selection for wide 16's.

I believe for that swap you have to put the L caliper on the R side and vice versa. Also you have to do the same with the ebrake cables. The cables won't reach all the way there will be a few inches left so just make some small metal "spacers" basically a flat bar with holes on each end or you could just use some Metal plumbers tape the stuff with the holes in it bend it a few times and bolt it on.

I think I heard that the reason those older cars got better gas mileage was because of less strict emissions laws. Now cars have to put out lower emissions run catalytic converters and cars such as LEV's and ULEV's car companies have to strain to get low emissions while still getting decent mileage and power. But this may not be true and I could be wrong I'm sure someone else could comment. Another idea is that those cars that got such great gas mileage where also a lot smaller then the newer ones, with a lot more safety laws the newer cars are heavier as opposed to a Geo Metro. People like big luxurous cars but complain when they don't get good gas mileage. Sometimes you just have to make sacrifices.

They will most likely make aftermarket heads for it anyways. It probably flows pretty well stock as well.

Don't forget the Disk offset from the hub to mounting bracket as well. It might be possible to redrill the Ford disk and use spacers if needed if you want to keep the stock stub axle and bolt pattern.

If you end up swapping it out for the E88 you should probably get the head rebuilt with better valve seats, etc. If your not interested in ever making the motor into a turbo motor then you could raise the compression by getting some more head work done on the P90 as well. http://datsunzgarage.com/p90/index.htm http://datsunzgarage.com/p79/index.htm These links cover some good information on building nice NA carbed motors.

Definitely looks like it would be easier to put a turbo on it.

Awesome news, A slight change to the mounting holes wouldn't be that bad. Hopefully there isn't any clearance issues with the backing plate.

I edited my post with approximate measurements for the Z bolt pattern for the bracket. According to the link I posted the EC-841/843 kit or axle has a pretty close bolt pattern. Found a picture of the Disk dimensions, its the one on the left for a Ford explorer 8.8" axle with the drum brakes/Disk.

Hmm I have seen this same Drum parking brake and disk stopping brake used on a S30 from a newer 350z. This would definitely be a cool and cheaper option. Is the brake bracket attached to the backing plate or the hub of the explorer? Also is the bore of the center hole large enough? Also remember if you keep the Stock stub axle you will have to find a Disk that is the right offset and will work with the drum brake inside. Definitely going to follow this and see where it goes. Found some measurements of the Ford axles and some Disc conversions, I have a Maxima bracket I didn't use to do my brakes yet, I will post up info in a bit. http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/rear_discbrake_conversions.html (bottom of the page) I didn't measure the inside bore of the center hole because I have a flat maxima bracket and it isn't the right size. but here are the measurements they aren't perfect but they are close enough to get a guesstimate.

Isn't Arizona Z car developing a rear disk conversion that will use 2 calipers?

Did you periodically wash it with Salt water? I thought my first Missouri Z was bad.. I'm surprised that thing lasted long enough to rust through in that many spots without getting crushed at some earlier point in its life.

Yeah I have a Super, mine handles decent but I need to upgrade and replace everything since I'm poor because of my Datsun I just cut the springs and the ride is pretty rough,bottoms out, etc. It made a world of difference on the highway (didn't float at speed as much) though. Anyways Sorry about the thread jack.

My beetle hasn't hit 90mph before I swear..