19762802+2

Have you checked the carb oil? How about the return springs on the linkage?

Go with 16 inch nothing looks better in my opinion on a z plus you still have decent tire selection

Yeah except you run the risk of hitting a water jacket which would suck and having to drill a new hole in the exhaust manifold and having sealing issues because of the new hole in the intake/exhaust gasket.

I would almost garantee those are 15's not sure what width but I'm guessing somewhere around 9 and 9.5

Do the Rota's

The mechanical Fuel pump attaches to the cylinder head not the timing cover. I believe the only difference in the timing covers is the timing degree marks and distributor mount both which are interchangeable.

I did this on my p79 head I run the mechanical to feed my SU's and a booster pump near the tank which I only run when I'm on the highway or feeling frisky . Drill it out and run it, don't forget the oliptical washer and bolt on the cam to run the fuel pump.

When it's beat to heck, looks like crap but you drive it around like it's the fastest/coolest thing ever. Also you just go start it up and drive it just to hear that sweet exhaust sound even though the fumes give you a headache.

I think Lanier's Speed shop here in Colorado springs has a Sun Distributor machine, I've only seen a glimpse of it through the window though haven't been to the shop myself actually but its in downtown off Vermijo and Nevada. Seems like a pretty cool shop otherwise.

You'll want a good clutch if your going to make good power with the L28et, If I were you I would get the 225mm flywheel (which you have) or get the 240mm flywheel (which came on the 2+2 stock or you can get one aftermarket) If you run the 225mm flywheel you will need to get a turbo clutch disc and pressure plate. This subject has been covered many times before but if you get the 225mm flywheel you need to have the same throwout collar as the pressure plate for example. 225mm flywheel 225mm clutch/pressure plate 4 speed throwout bearing 240mm flywheel 240mm clutch/pressure plate 2+2 throwout bearing. I believe the early 5 speed versus the later 5 speed have different throwout bearing lengths basically you just need your flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing to match and you should be able to use any transmission you want within reason.

Reminds me when I saw a brand new orange Porsche GT3 RS in the local Subaru dealership showroom.

Could be the Cold start injector as well, Its been a while since I messed with the stock fuel injection. That can definitely happen to you car its happened to others, the inside of your tank can rust and flakes could get sucked up into the supply inlet. The tank probably isn't your issue since the black smoke points to a rich problem not a lean problem but it wouldn't hurt to drop the tank and get it recoated and cleaned out.

Take everything apart clean everything with brake cleaner until the whole motor is spotless then put it back together to factory specs and then you don't have to worry about it.

Fuel filter dirty? Have you cleaned out the tank? How do you know the injectors are fine. Also did you get the correct AFM for your year? I believe the early ones have a different pin arrangement then the later ones. How about the fuel pressure regulator? The stock fuel dampner can have issues as well. Download the factory service manual and troubleshoot it.

I bet some guys on ratsun.net would have some pictures your looking for.

If you shorten the control arms too much your going to have clearance issues around the strut tower, With all the angles considered your moving the angle of the strut towards the center as well so you would have clearance issues with a stock strut setup, Might have more clearance with Coilovers but then you still have problems with the mounting surface of the strut tower. They are plenty of options for adjustable Control arms, Techno Tuning for example that can give you some options for decreasing and adjusting camber.

200hp 2.0 liter boxer motor with a 7400rpm redline at 2700ish lbs? I'd rock it, I've heard it gets pretty decent gas mileage too.

Do they not work on the dash? Are you getting them to work outside the car? I know that for a while I thought my left side wasn't working but Outside the car it was and all that was wrong was that the bulb had fallen out of the back of the Tach. Also another thing to try is make sure you have the right style lights in the bulb holders. Mine had issues because I put the wrong ones in and it melted a bit of plastic around the contacts.

Put a Miniature Diesel flap on the end.

Ratsun.net is a more suitable place for purely form builds and will be accepted there. Hybridz is known for being full of knowledge and function I wouldn't want to read a book about fabrication that's cluttered with pictures of Popsicles and elmer's glue. By sticking to function builds it makes it easier to find the info you want rather then sifting through "hellaflush stance" threads, where it could be possible to become misinformed on a modification.

The stock turn signals work through the hazard light switch if it's corroded, broke, or disconnected they won't work. It shouldn't be hard at all xenons30.com has wiring diagrams.

Crazy octopus has 15x10 drw's with 225/50/15 on his 240z

16's have a lot better choices but I believe BFG makes the t/a radial in a 275/60/15 not too bad a bit tall on the sidewall though.

Same thing happened to me it was my master cylinder for the clutch check if there is fluid on your firewall under the dash. Also you might want to check your slave cylinder on the tranny

The maxima has two throttle plates in the throttle body when you use three maxima throttle bodies you get six individual throttle plates. There are videos of his car and pictures too.