19762802+2

Another option is to go with the 1fastZ route and use 92 Maxima throttle bodies, A 280z/280zx intake manifold cut down with new runners welded on and the Throttle bodies attached. This way you already have injector mounts and less machine work to do. I like your design as well, It looks very nice. Let us know how they sound and perform. Perhaps a Video?

I'm going to guess 15x10 Diamond racing with what looks like 195/55/15 tires or possibly 205/50/15. Maybe 15x8 and 15x10 combo?

I was having similar problems on my 260z. check your electrical fuel pump in the rear by the tank.

Silver or chrome 16x8 diamond racing

Seems similar to the 94 pathfinder intake style, it would be good for torque based on the intake runners IMO depending on the change of size of the runners. Any pictures of the inside of the manifold?

Individual throttle bodies on triple carb intake with a oldschool surge box such as cartech

Had the same problem same car. Make sure all your column wires are connected right this issue drove me insane then I checked the steering column and one wire was disconnected.

Don't forget less unsprung weight/rotational mass so quicker acceleration and weight reduction.

Falken 205/50/15 rt-615 I believe are pretty nice tires and are pretty grippy plus me and my buddies are happy with falken ze512 for cheap performance tires I'm going to use 255/50/16 when I go with some diamond racing wheels on my z

Just was searching for some fuel injection for my beetle and found this. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=319 Here is a another site to compare prices for throttle bodies for our Z's. http://www.racetep.com/ztripdcoe.html#twmtbod They sell weber style 48mm throttle bodies with injector bosses already built in and I believe they would bolt on to a triple weber intake manifold with no problems. I know there are other options such as TWM throttle bodies which are basically the same design but I believe they are a bit more expensive (verfication on that?) Anyways I'm sure you could call them up and get three for around $800 and including the price of a triple intake manifold depending on how much you spend on that you could have ITB's for much cheaper then a Extruddabody set up at least possibly a TWM but I'm not sure on their price. ITB's on a triple intake with all for under $1500 (3 VW itb's, Megasquirt,Intake manifold.) sounds pretty appealing to me. I'm not sure if there would be a difference since these are based on downdraft carbs instead of sidedraft carbs, I don't see why it would be too much of a problem? I could be wrong hopefully someone will chime in and give some advice. I think I will be going this direction with my Datsun after I get my beetle motor built, what can I say I like ITB's and fuel injection.

The water would have just burned off with the gas doing no harm, people used to put water into the intake while it was running to clear out carbon and such. While it was running rough you were probably just having issues with debris in the tank, filter, or possibly the carbs if you kept the carbs with the L28 swap.

I think I have seen somewhere about something were there were SU float bowls that had small glass windows so you could check the fuel level but I can't remember for sure.

Do you have an electric pump or mechanical? I have been having the same issue with my carbs lately as well, not exactly the same but the car would run like crap, I would check if its vapor locking, make sure your getting the right PSI to the carbs, also one of your float bowl needles could be sticking and causing it to go dry, also check your float level. For a while I was having problems with having too much pressure from my electric pump (now I'm having problems with not enough pressure, so time for the mechanical pump. ) and it would cause one carb to starve out and the other to get too much fuel. I also was having problems with the fuel restrictor hole on the return line of the fuel rail so I'm now running a pressure regulator, but my electric pump doesn't flow enough fuel at higher rpms to keep the float bowls full so I lean out and lose power.

The wheels look awesome but something about the color doesn't seem right, I think the Diamond racing silver might look good, I usually try to go with three elements when I paint my cars such as orange white and chrome. Glad to hear you got it going though I bet it must be nice to finally drive it.

Did you end up with the Diamond racing 16's or 15's? I can't remember what your thread said on ratsun, looking forward to the wheel pictures.

I just ordered some from Modern Motorsports and he has been quick to reply (after he got back from his trip) and has been helping me out a lot. I guess they are having major website issues and paypal issues, that are getting sorted out. I have been emailing him with my personal email and haven't had any troubles contacting him.

I would pass, I almost got a buddy to pick up a 280z with no rust and a spare motor tons of parts etc. for $650 and I picked up both of my Z's (one running the other with tons of body work and frame rails already done, no motor) for $350.

I think they are called motor plates(?) they keep the motor from flexing to the side when revved, basically instead of loosing a bit of torque from the motor twisting on the motor mounts it keeps the motor in place. Also makes it easier to take the motor in and out.

There are a few really good sticky's in the FAQ forum about heads, Like Braap would say a P79, or P90 with Flat top pistions (your N42 block has Dished pistons) would be much better for a high comp street engine because of the better quench, You also don't need to worry about your valves hitting you need to worry about having too much compression, I think maybe a 9.5.1 comp ratio maybe a bit higher, run that octance and advance your timing as much as you can without pinging and you will be able to do just fine. Also you want a good cam for your set up too, And don't forget that a stock ECU can't really handle a bigger cam so if you want to use a different cam you will have to run carbs or go Aftermarket EFI

Well I can't really tell because that picture is huge but I think thats a Coil pack it just fires your spark plugs, You probably have a trigger wheel setup for spark or something similar towards the front of the engine.

A turbo.

You can run 255/50/16's as well You can get Falken ZE512's in that size, various BFG's etc. They also sell 245/50/16's still through Kuhmo and some Falkens I believe. The 245/50's have the most decent selection if I remember right. I'm going to run some 16x10's on my 2+2 with some ZG flares, I'm going to either try some 225/50 Falken Azenis RT-615 or go with some 255/50 Falken ZE512's. Just have to figure out the right offset to make use of the ZG flare since my 2+2 has wider rear fenders stock. Also if your running wider tires you should have Negative offset, You need 4.5 in of backspacing on stock suspension to play it safe and your not going to get that with a 9 inch wheel with +15 offset. You could run a 8 inch wheel with tons of negative offset to sit it "flush" with a ZG flare if you wanted too, I think with some 16x9's with a -30ish offset you would be good to go, as all Z guy's using Watanabes pull it off fine and with a 9 inch you still have tire choices that aren't too extreme.

Are those Diamond racing wheels? Those look awesome.

Weld a rod or lengthen the stock shifter and you can achieve the same thing unless you are going for more of a "race look" with something aftermarket which then would need a lot more fabrication.