innerware

bought my Tokico Blues off of the same seller over a year ago and it was legit. Good shipping and great to deal with.

looking good. Although I think it would look nicer with larger rear wheels. Those seem a bit small. Just a bit of sarcasm. Hail sucks. Can't wait to see it finished.

Of course you should first read some old posts. Search Search Search is the name of the game here. Rattle can primer sucks. Why spend time at all on the body if this is all you are going to do. If you have to use rattle cans use "Zero Rust" Most primers out of the can are porous and will let mousture in to the bare metal rendering your car worthless and rusty. Good luck and check out the search funtion.

The inlays for the frets and bridge aren't the problem. It is the fact that the sides, neck, and back are all one piece. The soundboard is also one piece that extends up all the way to the head. The fret board and bridge are attached after. The accuracy is important so the neck remains straight with the proper negative neck relief built into it. Also the bridge has to be level in relationship to the fret board. So essentially the intire surface has to be level and flat with a minute amount of negative bow in the neck. We aren't using a truss rod and will set it up so it won't need adjusting. The first one we made so far hasn't bent or come out of true. But I want this one to be made better. And rosewood is a nice touch. Used it on the first one. I think it adds a warm touch to it. Thanks again for any advice and links to info.

Here is the picture of the existing "old design" http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=617 It has a hollow neck and the back is made out of a fiberglass twill and the top carbon fiber. It is done this way to save weight, be strong and moisture resistant, and travel friendly. It actually does sound good too. We have redesigned it and made it look better and solved some issues we had with the first prototype. My questions are now about making another one but better. I was able to make the first but just winged it since I had no composit experience previous. This next one I would like to do it as professionaly as possible. So, that said, here are the same questions: 1st question. How do you accurately trim a part from a mold before removing it? I would need the part to be perfectly trimmed to withing .003 of an inch if at all possible. It is a one piece back, neck, sides design and if it is in accurate then the guitar won't set up correctly. 2nd question. Is there someone that you all recomend in the Bay Area that is this good that I can purchase layup skills from. We are not at all against farming it out. 3rd question. Do you all recomend any good reading material that shows proper mold design for this type of application? I do know a bit of what I am doing but I now need it to be professionally done and would like to have all the knowledge I can gather. Thanks guys.

Thanks. Have thought of that. But it will be quite expensive and would have to be done in multiple stages. It is a guitar after all. I guess I am just looking for a person who could make the part for me after I make the mold.Or make the mold and part for me after I make the plug. I know from experience having parts SLA'd or FDM'd that this particular part would cost over a grand to have printed. Any books you all like on fiberglass mold building?

So, don't know if any of you remember the composit travel guitar I built a while back. Well, my partner and I have redesigned it and are going ahead with another build. I would like to do this one the proper way with a negative mold (female) gell coat first then layers of matte glass. 1st question. How do you accurately trim a part from a mold before removing it? I would need the part to be perfectly trimmed to withing .003 of an inch if at all possible. It is a one piece back, neck, sides design and if it is in accurate then the guitar won't set up correctly. 2nd question. Is there someone that you all recoment in the Bay Area that is this good that I can purchase layup skills from. We are not at all against farming it out. 3rd question. Do you all recomend any good reading material that shows proper mold design for this type of application? I do know a bit of what I am doing but I now need it to be professionally done and would like to have all the knowledge I can gather. I am building the positive for the new guitar soon and it will be all done professionally with a nice layer of release wax. This I have done before and it doesn't concern me. Just the proper mold design. The mold will be a one piece mold as the sides have enough draft angle to release and allow the part to be pulled. Thanks for all the help. I will post pics later of the new design. It is all drawn in solidworks and rendered nicely. But since we are going to hopefully take this one to production after the new prototype is made I probably can't show it around untill the trade shows next Jan. This model will be used for us to find capital so it can be manufactured elsewhere. That's the plan anyway. Thanks again

From a guy who went to art school and knows comic books from when he was young.....Nice work. Nice play with the dark negative space. Good techique too. Show us more.

What redneckz said. My engine just ran after 8 years of sitting. I did basically what is told here and all seems great. Runs like a champ.

In my opinion the only third brake light that would look good ona Z would be the new Celica light. Flares are looking good though.

Awesome picture. I'll call around and find out what they will give me. I wish I could beam it to one of you north east guys. The car treated me so well for a few years and is really salvagable. I might just shed a tear when it goes. I do have the title for it and it is smogged current too. It just won't be in any shape to run when I am done with it. But it will be free to anyone who wants a shell untill the middle of next month. I guess I will open up the yellow pages tomorrow. Thanks again, Kyle

Thanks. The while I'm at it syndrome will come later. For now she just needs to be pieced together to run so I can drive it to a place and have it shipped. I just can't believe how good it sounds.

So my 78 coupe has a dent in the rear quarter panel. I didn't want to fix it since it also has over 300K on the chassis and I bought a younger 130K 1977 coupe to replace it. I am in the process of stripping all the god parts off the 78 which I replaced when it was my daily driver. My question is this: How do I get rid of a chassis that has no doors (promised them to DavyZ), only the engine block and head, and virtually no interior? I would like to not have to put the old suspension on it from the 77 after I take the new Tokicos from the 78 but it should roll I guess. Do I just call a tow truck and have it taken to a junk yard? I will probably take the steering rack, diff, half shafts, drive shaft, rear brakes, front brakes, etc off of it as spare parts to keep. I live in Oakland CA and would need to get rid of it by the 15th of next month after it is stripped. Never done this before so I don't have any clue. Unless someone wants a shell with one dent around the rear drivers tail light for free to pick up then what are my options. It really has no rust on the frame. Floors are great, battery area with only slight surface rust, frame rails good etc. It could be chopped up for good parts I guess. Thanks for the advice, I can post pictures if anyone wants, Kyle

So, I have been a bit over worked the last year and haven't had any time for the car. (But I just finished my Masters in Design) My 77 I bought a year ago now has been sitting virtually untouched since then exept some body work and to determine it needed new fuel injectors to start. Prior to me getting it it sat for 7 years properly. Well, since my 78 is now my parts car and all the parts are only a few years old I started swapping stuff yesterday. Amazingly enough once the new injectors were on I cranked it over to find out that I have an awesome running car. YEAH!! I was so excited since it sat for so long. I did give it all new oil last summer when I got it and a new fuel pump too. But that was really all the work it got. No black smoke, no exhaust smell, no misfiring or stumbles, just nice smooth Z power. Anyway it has sparked new love in working on it. Which is good since I have a month to swap all the parts off the old one onto this one before I move cross country. Anyway, my wife is sick of hearing about it and I needed to tell people who care about this sort of thing. Thanks all, Kyle

I'm doing an Oakland, CA to Falmouth, MA drive in a month or so. Pensky 22 foot deisel truck with full car trailer is around 1650.00 for unlimited miles and 11 days. Gas will be another 800 or so just guestimating. I fugure it will take me 4 days to do with a friend. So far that is the cheapest way to go. Never rent a Uhaul for anything other than in town. Their trucks simply suck!!! Look at truck prices in remote towns around an hour outside of a big city for big moves. They are cheaper. The same Pensky if I picked it up in Oakland and dropped it off in Hyannis would have been almost 5 grand. Instead I am picking it up in Modesto and dropping it off in Plymouth, MA. Nice trick to save a bundle.

holy crap!! That looks awesome. Nice before and after shot. So anyway what kind of buffer was it? A cheapo electric or an expensive one? Really nice looking now!!

may she rest in peace

Well, you could always take off all the performance stuff and sell that. Then when the car breaks its tranny you can have them repair it under warrenty. Selling it with good concience to someone knowing it might blow a tranny might keep you from sleeping well at night if you don't tell them and then it is values much less. I would make the dealership honor the warranty with out the performace stuff on the car. Or trade it in to them with the stuff removed and get another newer less likely to blow a tranny car. Sticky situation I agree. Might be better to buy a new one after you arrive in VA and have one less car to move too. Good luck

For me. Shocks are pretty cheap and require no extra fab work. If I am too busy anyone knows how it is all bolted together and can work on it. Just my opinion. Why make life more complicated? I always like looking at pics of what others have done though. I just wouldn't want to. But I am not all that adventurous anyway.

It only has one sticker so it's not really that fast, but I did get it to almost 75mph once... That is my favorite line. Awesome looking 510.

looks awesome. What was the type of paint that you used? Really sharp!!

Sounds like you aren't using a good wet dry sand paper. It should hold together well if it isn't too cheap. Also look at getting those sand paper sponges as they work pretty well too. If you use a block get a hard foam sanding block at your auto paint store. They are nice too.

Bastaad, For what is is worth I have done this. 6 years ago I decided I wanted to move to CA. Me and two guy friends loaded up a Pensky 17 foot truck with flat bed (total around 1200 ) and drove out here. We had no jobs, no place to live etc. I am doing the reverse move in 4 months to go back to Boston with my wife. I am going to do the same thing. We are crashing with her folks untill we find jobs and a house. If you are trailering a car then you have a minimum truck size to work with. So you might as well fill it. In mu opinion your budget of 4 K is really good. Call around not only different moving truck rental companies but there different locations. For instance I am in Oakland CA and a friend was moving to Seattle. She saved over 40% on the truck by picking it up in Modesto as opposed to Oakland. It was a trick she used for years, and has always worked. Apparently there rates are dependant on where you pick it up and drop it off ( size of city wise ). Good luck and don't sweat it. While it seems like it will suck, and it will suck, it will be over quickly and you will be in a better place.

for the price it is worth a try I guess. It won't be an anti-rust paint as well like the rustoleum, but if it works well then it sure is cheap. Oh and I did a bit of research on the stuff: http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2241&view=next&sid=3fa504df7a91b255a19904a3554c0e95

Mike had some really good advice. Also, your wife believe it or not is a minority. She is a women. There are plenty of lawyers out there that do pro-bono work for minority groups. Won't cost you a dime at first. She should really keep her job too. As uncomfortable as it might be at the moment she would just be doing what they want her to do by quiting. Also it won't look bad if she gets fired. It is not as if it is a police record. Plus if she gets fired then she gets unemployment and you have a bigger case against them. Have her get whatever records in writting too now from coworkers. Have her email those that have passed on some news and ask questions. Ask Mike said documentation is key. Even if your wifes claim was complete b.s. the company would still have to pay a fortune to defend against it. Since it is not bs don't let them bully her around. This kind of crap has to stop. Good luck and stand your ground.