innerware

If you can't spray a good two part epoxy primer on it right away then the as you go primer I have heard good things about Zero Rust or Rust bullit. They will at least keep moisture from penetrating them and touching the metal. The problem with most single stage primers is that they are pourous and let in moisture. If the area is pitted then Por 15 works well. I used it in my hatch after I wire wheeled it and that was over a year ago and it is still holding up really well.

I have read here recentely in a thread on felpro gaskets that nissan parts are the way most like. Search for felpro and look for a post in the last month or two. EDIT: here is the link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104462&highlight=felpro

A picture is a thousand words

I have a carfax account for the next 30 days. Let me know if anyone needs a number run and I'll email you what I find.

That 2" you describe is a spacer because the shock is designed for multiple applications. I wouldn't cut the spacer. I don't think that you would benifit from doing so. Shocks are designed to have a certain travel. Can't say which is front or back but the Tockico blues I got had a f and r on the spring.

contact Ross at moderm motorsport via email and ask. It also might be an option as well in the check out for the kit. You might be able to remove the rotors and only buy the spacers.

Good job. My wife and I got married (first time) in Reno in a little white chappel. It was definately fun. But we succumed and had a more official ceremony later with the dresses and tuxedos and the whole familly. Both were a lot of fun. So you two could always celebrate an anniversary with Elvis marrying you or something. Congratulations and best of luck.

Thank you all for all the great info. This is really what I was looking for. And thanks 73Turbo240Z for the offer of parts knowledge. We went to a dealer today just to ask some questions about the older cars. Ended up test driving a 98 V70 fully loaded wagon. It was pretty nice for a NA car and it was the cross country version. It had 58k miles and was in really good shape. But of course they were asking 14K for it. We weren't going to buy from a dealer anyway as they are always overpriced. But it is such a comfortable car. Here on craigslist there are a bunch listed under 100 K miles for 3-6 thousand. We will probably look at some this week or next weekend. That means I get the 97 corolla and get to put Z #1 on jackstands next to Z #2 and strip the parts and combine the two. I might just get a nice Z out of it and a dependable (not fast) car. Thanks for all the info and please add more. Have a nice weekend

I have read that a universal for a tractor works for this. Not sure which one but check out places that sell parts for tractors. Hope that helps a bit.

About the coil. I know that the one I got from MSA is smaller than the original that came with it. But they are cheap enough and why not put on a new one so you know that isn't a problem.

Humididty isn't too high. It's Northrern California. So mostly around 50% I think. Although in the mornings a lot more. Right now it is 93% at 6:40 am. I have been using coolant that is premixed the proper amount. Should I switch to using another type? Thanks for all the suggestions. Everyone rocks!!

So, wife and I are thinking about buying a used Volvo wagon. I love the looks and so does she. Thinking about 1988-1995 as the years. Those were some nice looking cars. My questions as I have never owned one are: Are they expensive (parts etc)? What is the better year to look for? I have friends with two 88 and 87 wagons over 200k and going strong. So I know they last. We were thinking of around 3-6 thousand for it and Craigslist has a ton of them for sale from individuals. Anyway thought I would ask my other familly what they thought. Thanks all, Kyle

Thanks for the info.

It would be nice if that was all it was. But today was almost 80 out and it is usually around 55-60 in the morning. I know a bit of smoke is normal on warm up with cars but this is a bit more than a little.

Damn that smoke chrome is sweeeeeet!. Does any powdercoater have that as an option? And as asked the trim is Stainless Steel right? So just take it off and bring to a coater aye. Nice pics

thanks guys. I was hoping it was thin enough and I wasn't too screwed. Apon retrospect seeing the car again today I don't think that it is too bad afterall. I was just suprised is all. I was really hoping that for a car with 140K miles on it and one that sat for 7 years untouched it would have been more stock and less reworked. But since it is straight and all the panel lines are crisp I guess I am lucky enough. I will stop taking bondo away as I have yet to find rust under it and will assume the rest is clean underneath and the work was done well. Thanks guys

Hey all. I have read posts where people ask is this too much rust. Well this is similar but with bondo. What is too much bondo? My 77 280 that I started on not to long ago I am prepping the body. Apon sanding to the metal at all the holes (getting ready to fill trim holes and the like) I have noticed that the PO must have had body work done. There is like 1/8 inch thickness of bondo on the drivers door right near the horizantal line/crease. Also I noticed the rear passenger tail light surround at the far right leading edge is pretty much all bondo 1/8inch thick at least. There is considerable bondo in other places too. The passenger rocker area too. I guess this is why the car looked so straight and clean. Where I have ground it down to metal there is no rust though only clean metal and the car lookes ok where it was done. Who ever did it did well. I will take some pictures later today and post them. But what are some horror stories and what have you all put up with?

Thanks. Today if my friend remembers to bring it to work we will do a head gasket test (attaches to radiator cap location). I will pull the plugs and see there condition too. The smoke doesn't really have a smell at all. It is just grey/white. I have read pretty much all the posts on this forum too. I am pretty much an addict. Ask my wife. But with all the others it seems a bit different. From what I have read: Blue smoke is oil, grey smoke is fuel and white smoke is coolant. If it is coolant though. Wouldn't It show up in a lack of power and milky nasty oil/coolant? If it was running really rich and the smoke was light grey wouldn't I smell fuel in the exhaust? It's just embarrassing really. It just passed smog. And LT1 who pretested/presmogged it said it looked to be in fine operating condition and didn't think it was a head gasket issue either. Thanks again, Kyle

Hey all. My daily driver 78Z pretty much all stock has been smoling for a while now. I can't seem to figure out why and was hoping you all could help. It only smokes apon start up. For the most part in the morning is a definate. It smokes untill the car is warm. Usually stops when the temp guage starts reading some heat. It is a grey/white smoke. And there is a lot of it. The harder I press the throttle the more the smoke. I do not have any sludge in overflow tank. I also don't have any sludge in the oil. None on the guage stick and none around the filler cap. I was thinking it was oil and that I had a leaky valve guide. Then I was thinking it was real rich apon start. It doesn't smell like gas as I have stuck my head in the cloud of vapor and smelled. I also put a rag at the end of the exhast and it fealt damp and didn't really have an odor. I will also notice some liquid drip out onto the ground. But that is fairly common with condensation build up over night. Once the car is warm and it goes away it doesn't come back while driving. Once in a while it will do it if the car sits for 15-20 minutes and then I get back in and start it. I am thinking it is a head gasket. My friend who knows a lot more about cars then I do thinks it isn't. Could I be burning coolant and not see it in the oil and oil in the coolant? Anyway I want to give up, and was hoping for some suggestions. It drives well and no one thinks it is a head gasket. Thanks in advance, Kyle

Thanks for all the great help guys. I love this site. I will post pics as soon as I am done. I can't wait.

Jmortenson, let me know when it is that you are loading up a truck. I might be available to help you load it and maybe buy some stuff off of you too. I live in Oakland CA so I am not too far.

Thanks guys. I found my hose at Kragen of all places for 13 bucks for 9 feet. Nissan is on crack. Can't believe that they wanted 40 bucks a foot. I will try the carb cleaner and a nine volt to open them up. The plintels are real nice looking and I think they were new when the head was rebuilt 40 K miles ago. That is 7 years of sitting and 40 K miles though. New Injectors though which I will probably buy soon as I am getting some extra funds, First question, Where is the best place to buy? MSA has them for like 55 a piece. Is that my best source? Where do they get them from? Second. I want to replace my fuel regulator too while I'm at it. Adjustable or static is fine but adjustable might be nice. Should I get it from Summit? And if so what pressure rating? Third, what gaudge fits the JSK rail (fuel pressure) Finally fourth, what did you all do for mounts on the JSK rail? Thanks again, you all are awesome, Kyle

Ok so I'll be the one to say it. There is an abundant amount of info available in the search. This is something I have read myself here that is supposedly fairly easy to do. Your mounts have to be replaced, but you'll find out when you find an old thread.

Not a problem. Can't wait to see pics and your recap on your adventure.

Thanks guys. Datsunan, nice car. Lots of chrome and polish. Ok so for now to just get it going I'll stick with plain ole black hose. Is there a way to clean my injectors? I think they are pretty gummed up from sitting 7 years dry. Soak em in a bucket of acetone or something? I pulled the rail and put little buckets under the injectors and cranked the engine with the distributer unhooked and got no fuel out the injectors (definately fuel at the rail). So I think they are either all shot or gummed up. Also where does one get a 3 watt test lamp to test my injector clips? My multimeter shows voltage but its hard to tell what amount since it pulses and is quick. And I read that a 9 volt battery will open an injector to test it to see if it works. Is this true? I think that is all. Thanks again, Kyle