innerware

I am using a JC Whitney heater fan that I connect to the defroster wires via allegator clips. So when I need the fan to go on I use the original defroster button to turn it on. It works fine and I can move it around since I have it resting on a box in the back. It is pretty ghetto but what the hell it works.

Car is looking good. Sounds damn good too. Brake stand in the garage though. That must have left a mark and smelled pretty bad. Hope the parents don't mind. Anyway I wish I was that far in the construction of a monster Z. It really looks great and shows all your hard work.

Thanks for all the help guys. I will try and disconnect the cold start valve tomorrow and see if that helps at all. What is the temp that the cold start valve runs at? I thought it was for COLD weather, not what I am used to as cold in Oakland which really isn't cold at all. I know that my timing is OK and I just had it all adjusted to pass smog so my afm is properly adjusted. I will also look at my TPS and see if there is something there wrong. Thanks again and any other suggestions are always welcome. Kyle

Thanks, yeah when it is still cold ( still within 2-3 minutes after start) if I hit the gas it will sputter and drop rpm's. Sometimes it will sputter and choke up and backfire or front fire in the intake. Not sure where the firing is coming from. I was running way too rich not too long ago and couldn't pass smog (gross poluter) Since I had that fixed and have passed smog things seem to be worse than before. It takes me 2-3 times of cranking the car to get it to start. It is almost like it is flooded, I can turn it over and over with nothing at first until like something warms up or something. Than after the 3rd time it will start and right away idle real low like it will die and than not die and idle at cold idle. This is when it will choke up if I try and drive too soon. So thoughts about what it could be. Computer, sensors, fuel pump etc? Thanks all,

Hey all, what would cause my stock 280z to not like to start up when it is cool? I think it is a fuel or air issue. It cranks just fine and when it finally takes it will loose rpms if I apply the gas. When I let it warm up for a couple of minutes it is fine. But if I don't let it warm up enough it will loose rpms and want to backfire. So I feel it can be a fuel or air issue. I have new plugs, airfilter, and just passed smog fine. My vacuum checked ok and this will only happen when it is below 65 degrees or so. I am in the Bay area of Northern Cali so it isn't too cold. Could my Air Flow meter be sticking when cool or my throttle body? I have all new ( year and a half old ) sensors. When I ran too rich it wasn't that bad but I just had the car adjusted to pass smog and now it is bad again. My injectors are all less than 2 years old too. It doesn't sound cold start valve issue since it chokes up on me right after start, plus it hasn't been that cold. Could it be a pressure regulator, or air regulator? I don't know where to look and how to test it if it is the problem. Any help is appreciated as always. Thanks

Hey all, what would cause my stock 280z to not like to start up when it is cool? I think it is a fuel or air issue. It cranks just fine and when it finally takes it will loose rpms if I apply the gas. When I let it warm up for a couple of minutes it is fine. But if I don't let it warm up enough it will loose rpms and want to backfire. So I feel it can be a fuel or air issue. I have new plugs, airfilter, and just passed smog fine. My vacuum checked ok and this will only happen when it is below 65 degrees or so. I am in the Bay area of Northern Cali so it isn't too cold. Could my Air Flow meter be sticking when cool or my throttle body? I have all new ( year and a half old ) sensors. When I ran too rich it wasn't that bad but I just had the car adjusted to pass smog and now it is bad again. My injectors are all less than 2 years old too. It doesn't sound cold start valve issue since it chokes up on me right after start, plus it hasn't been that cold. Could it be a pressure regulator, or air regulator? I don't know where to look and how to test it if it is the problem. Any help is always appreciated as always. Thanks

Quick question for all that no so much more than I wish I could. I just changed the front break pads on my wifes 97 corolla. Only one of the brake pads was really worn bad. Three of them had like half there life left on them. What would cause that kind of wear? The calipers are single piston, and I have never worked with that kind of caliper before. All I know is my Z. Thanks for any info.

I did this and my car ran sooooo much better. It took me 1/2 hour to an hour and it liiks so much better too. It is just amazing how brittle those old plugs can get. Not the cheapest thing too just for the little electrical cap, but definately worth every penny. Good luck

I have that style key too. It says nissan on them and I was told that they were the original keys when I bought them. Nissan was around then it is what the company was called in Japan. Datsun was just the US market at the time. My keys are so worn though they are almost smooth.

O.k. I will answer my own question and post what I found for those that didn't know either. CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE TRANSMISSION A continuously variable transmission is an automatic that can select any desired drive ratio within its operating range. Unlike a traditional three-, four-, or five-speed automatic transmission, the CVT is an ‘infinite speed’ transmission. It continually selects an optimum overall drive ratio between engine and drive wheels for all operating conditions, whether accelerating or cruising. Unlike conventional automatics, there are no perceptible shifts. During maximum acceleration, the drive ratio is adjusted to maintain peak engine horsepower. At a constant vehicle speed, the ratio is set to maintain an optimum balance of fuel economy and driveability. A CVT provides smooth, fast acceleration and high cruising efficiency with the convenience of an automatic transmission. The most common CVT design uses a segmented metal V-belt running between two pulleys. Each pulley consists of a pair of cones that can be moved close together or further apart to adjust the diameter at which the belt operates. The pulley ratios are electronically controlled to select the best overall drive ratio based on throttle position, vehicle speed and engine speed. CVT systems are commonly in use in Audi’s multitronic, Honda’s MMT and Mitsubishi’s INVECS-III CVT among others. Question? How to put one in a Z? They sound great!

Hey all, this isn't Z related but I though there would be people out there that would know. I saw the new Toyota Prius today and it has a continuously variable transmission or something like it. I asked how many gears it had for it's auto( only comes in an automatic) and he said it didn't have any gears. Is this right? He said Nissan has it on there new SUV. What kind of tranny could it be that it doesn't have gears? He also said it didn't have any tranny fluid. Is this like the new BMW's 7 series sealed tranny that I have heard about? Just curious, thanks, Kyle

Paul Newman has a president V8 in his Z in the early history of Z racing. I don't know if it wasa a TT though.

I guess i am pretty good only 9% had a better soul. And I didn't lie.

Sure has a nice look all naked. Too bad they didn't come delorian style all stainless. Exept for the weight issue. Good luck with the painting. Let everyone know how it goes.

the vacuum thing that you discribe is called a dashpot. I am not sure what it does but it does not have a hose that attaches to it. If the throttle is hard to press down (petal) then check the clearance behind the petal. IE is the mat getting in the way. There isn't much to the throttle on a 78 trace back from the petal all the way to the throttle body. Make sure everything is ok and lubed well. Right around the firewall check and make sure the boot doesnt have all sorts of crap in it that could be restricting the linkage from turning. Good luck and hopefully someone will chime in that has more experiene than I do, Kyle

Vote McClintock, he is the only one that makes any sense.

What causes a car to have too high a CO level when trying to pass smog? I have a 78 280z that is now a gross polluter. I failed my CO test by about double. Everything is bassically stock. Any ideas are good. I am bringing it to my shop Friday anyway but I don't trust even the most trusted shop, and I trust my shop. Just thought I would get some input. Thanks as always, Kyle

you might not be able to get it registered right aay but try and get it smogged earlier. if you can get it to a station to get it smogged I think the information will be in the computer when you get it registered. But of course you will need temp plates or something. Good luck

Hey there, I finally have a few bucks to spend and I wanted to replace my clutch. While at it I figured I would replace my 4 speed with a 5 speed. Sounds good right? Anyway, should I just get a 78 5 speed to replace it with or a later zx 5 speed? They all bolt up with no mods right? But I thougt the later ones had a better gear ratio. If the year doesn't matter from say 77 to 81 then maybe it will give me better flexability in finding one. What does everyone think? Thanks as always to the best forum in the world. Kyle

how can you not notice that many bikes next to you. They are soooo loud it is rediculous. That is just too bad and a shame.

Try these guys. They have good shiping prices. It is worth a shot at least. http://www.risingsunengines.com

Yeah, McClintock, the only one at the debate to think that the license thing was a bad idea. Are all the others on crack too?

Did you change the master cylinder with a new one. You didn't say. My problem when I did it the first tim was that I had the wrong master cylinder. It looked exactly the same but the push rod length was a little smaller than the original. Where did you buy it? Was the clevis pin a bitch to put back in or was it somwhat easy. With a wrong master the pin will be a pain to get in. If it is the correct one it will line up with the pedal whole real well and slide in without much problem.

if the injector is good than just replace the fuel line. It is an odd size, I can't remember the exact size of it but I couldn't find it autozone or kragen. I think that motorsport auto carries it. Also you will want to replace the hose clamps too. The job is more of a pain in the ass than anything else. Removing the fuel rail takes time and the job is a little messy. When I did it I did it 3 times cause I kept putting on the wrong size how that I would get for Kragen. Like i said it is an odd size. The 3rd and final time I did it i had the correct hose size and clamps and the whole job took less than 3 hours. Plus at that point I replaced all my injectors too. Anyway, good luck, the old hoses can be a pain to take off too. Mine turned into steel. They were so hard I had to use a knife and cut them off. Have fun, Kyle

I just did this. replaced my master and slave cause they were sooooo old. Just put both in the car. Filled it with fluid. Had a friend pump pedal once and hold down. i was under the car and once it was held down i opened the bleeder with a tube attached and the end in a jar. I did this about a dozen or so times. Press and hold pedal, open valve, wait a few seconds, close valve and repeat. It was my first bleeding job and it couldn't have been easier. I would recomend replacing the master and slave if you don't know how old they are since you are there anyway. Why do it twice. They are fairly inexpensive from VB. Good luck