innerware

Hey there. My car tonite while leaving college had real dim lights when I first started driving. I got about 2 miles and was able to get it into BART parking lot. I think my alternator has gone bye bye. I lost most of my power and my gauge read half way or a little less. After parking it still ren with the lights off but with them on it would die. That sounds like an alternator to you guys right? Could it be my voltage regulator? What are you thoughts. I need to bart over and fix it in the morning. WHo do you trust selling alternators? I know Kragen and autozone are crap but is napa any good? Thanks for all the help. Oh yeah, my radio went dead too. Turned off completely like my battery was disconnected. I figure that it is just cause I wasn't getting any power. If I change the alterator is there any tips or is it as easy as it looks. Thanks again, this forum rocks, Kyle

I hope that you are talking about a 200 cd changer for your house. No such thing for the Z yet. I have had a 200 disk cd changer that sony makes for the past few years. Maybe 4 years. It is the BEST THING IN THE WORLD!! You can have blocks of 25 that you can play at ramndon or play the whole bunch at random or program what you want to hear. It is the best thing if you get sick of one cd at a time or 5 at a time. I would recomend it to anyone. They are like 200 bucks or less. Well worth it. And you don't have to convert all your cd's to mp3 files. Way easy. Just put the booklets in a book that they give you with numbers on the pages and you have your own juke box. It was the wisest purchase for listening to music I ever did. No more cases lying around.

That is the sickest car I have ever seen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HOLY WOW!!!!!

szlash, have you figured it out yet? I have a non turboed Z (280) and have the same problem. If I rid e for while and go to the store and come back in 20 minutes or so, the car is heat soaked and after restarting it will run like crap until it cools a little. It will start up and then rpm reall low and rpm bounce too. I don't think that I have any pinging though. It concerns me too. This happened after putting in a new radiator for me. Anyway I was hoping you had figured something out.

I don't know, I had the same problem that you described last April. I thought that I had air in the system and when I tried to bleed it I couldn;t get ANY pressure. I then replaced the master and slave cylinder and was pleasantly supprised to find that all was well aferward. My master and slave basically fell apart in my hand when I removed them, so it was definately time to replace them.

you'll probably need to tell us wha tkind of transmission and clutch is being used. Unless everyone already knows.

accesorry flaps? Where would you mount it?

Email Mike Knell. He is the guy who wrote the book and he will be able to tell you for sure. His email is jags@tdl.com He is installing Ls1's into just about every thing else so he should be able to tell you

So nothing to worry about right? When I get an electric fan with a thermostat it should cool the engine a bit more after the car is off. Thanks, I was hoping that it was nothing to worry about.

Very nice. Those cost a bunch? I bet you feel real happy. Injoy your beautiful car.

I had a problem similiar and it was with my 78 280. Since the engine is similiar I will tell you what was wrong with it. It was my BCDD valve. I don't know what it is or what it does. But by blocking off the valve it solved the problem. Hopefully others know what it is. Good luck

Hey all, I just put the JTR radiator in my L28 stock Z. I did it with Mike Knell who wrote our bible. Anyway, I had a question. The radiator kicks but. I don't even temp over half way on my gauge. Not even running it over 90 on the highway for a long time of in traffic. But even though the temp stays low if I drive to the store and come back 10 minutes later right after I turn it back on the temp seems real high for just a minute untill the fan clools things off. So here is my question, Why would it get hotter after I turned it off? Even if I had an electric fan it would only cool the liquid in the radiator, not the engine since the pump is not operating. How would my car get hotter? Or is this a misreading? I plan on getting an electric fan as soon as finals are over. But for the mean time why and is this bad? Thanks, Kyle

Quick question about sway bar bushings. I replaced the front and the rears with uerathane bushings. The rear ones were real hard to seat. After I got them in ( with the use of a jack to push up the bar) I have noticed a creaking, clunking sound at the rear. Is this cause I had to force them in? Did I need to grease the connection to the rod? Is it because it is too tight that it is making that sound? I couldn't find anyone witha problem likw this in the seach. So I hope some one can help. Thanks as always, Kyle

I too need body work and a good body guy in the area is always good to know. I am in Oakland so Fremont isn't too far. Anxious to hear how it goes.

I've had everything stolen from me countless times. And I have always locked my doors and lived in a nice little safe county town back in Connecticut. Now that I am in Oakland I have had no problems. I HATE THIEVES TOO. Well at least the Honda motor only has 4 cylinders to pay for. Could you imagine the price if you had to buy 8 of everything. He is truelly one lucky son to have a dad like you. Good luck and lets hope he doesn't drive it into a ditch or something. We all learned the hard way with cars I think when we were young. I at least had a slower car. Might not be here otherwise. Happy Hollidays and good luck, Kyle

Dave those pics kick ass. Your car looks like it can withstand almost anything. A job well done.

you can also get a manual from Courtesy Nissan in Texas. They sell them on CD and they are text searchable. You will spend the same amount on it as a real book but this allows you to print out just what you want and who cares if you get grease on it. Good luck, at least you have new injectors and harnesses, it is a start.

Stay with what is known will work well right? I am putting in the JTR radiator this next week. Doing it at Mike Knells houes so I get to meet the man behind the book finally. He's taking before and after pics for new parts. He's going to be selling brackets and hoses for the chevy radiator to be put in to a stock l28. So anyway I am stiking with something that is known to work. Why bother with anything that might have problems right?

I can't speak from any experience but it looks like it would kick ass. Good luck, Kyle

That is wierd that they said it doesn't exist. Maybe cause it was made by Courtesy Nissan ans not Nissan direct. It really kicks but though.

I couldn't view the post but I have one. It was made by courtesy Nissan in Texas. It is the exact factory 1978 manual that comes in the book form but text searchable and it has adds and commercials and stuff too. It was like 80 bucks but well worth it. I print up the sections I need and put them in a binder for future referal. If you wasnt any more info on this I could find their site for you. They offer this for all the Z's.

The looks are stopping us. Their are allready too many 240sx's around. That is what is soooo nice about are Z's they are pretty rare. It would be interesting to see somebody try it though. I am always up for something new to look at.

voltage regulator? It is what tells the battery how much charge it gets. Good luck, Kyle

Victoria British has pumps for sale and they are pretty cheap. First though clean the contacts that are on the pump. They tend to corrode fast and with a good cleaning it could get your pump to work. Otherwise they are easy and cheap to replace. Really any pump will work that you get at a parts store. It just might require a little more custome mounting. Good luck

That gear ratio calculator is the coolest thing ever. Now I know that my rpms are correct. I always wanted to know. Thanks