innerware

FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YEAH!!!!!!!!!! So apparently you need to have the thermotime switch and water temp sender hooked up properly. Who knew?? Any way that seemed to be the issue. It started up on the first try this morning and it was below 40 F.

I'll hopefully post tomorrow with a confirmed fix but here it is so far. About a year or so ago I replaced my thermotime switch and the harness that goes to it and the water temp sender. Apparently when I hooked it all back up I switched the two wires and hooked them up backward. So this said we will find out in the morning if the car starts in the cold. Untill then..........

Glad I didn't mess with it yet. Sorry to hear that it didn't solve your problem though. As I standd on the issue now it is in the shop. I hate having to do that. Money being an issue and all. Plus all the money that is spent there is less money for mods to the car. But, hopefully they will be able to get down to it. It is at the Z doctors up in Richmond CA and I know most of you think they are over priced I have had nothing but wonderful service and find that they are fair. Anytime I have a question I can call them and ask. They have spent probably a total of hours walking me through things on the phone. So all that said I have faith they will find out what it is and I will pass on this new knowledge to you. In the mean time good luck and let me know if you fix it too.

Your conversion sounds great. But doesn't VB sell a rear hatch release cable kit. I know it is always better to do it yourself, so kudoos to you. Can't wait to see the pics

I've used the DeVilbiss and really liked it. Can't say for the other though.

Nice everything aye!!!!!!!!!!!! Wow

fiberglass or carbonfiber center console or heater vent plate. Always thought that would look nice. Maybe glove box door. Just cool interior accents. I've thought of making rear compartment skins that incorporated a subwoofer. Pretty much anything interior. There's also new hood vents.

O.k. so I have been having problems in the morning when it is cold getting the car to start. I thought it might be fuel but I pulled a spark plug after trying to start it and there was fuel pressent. I just replaced my plugs, cap, rotor, and wires thinking there was a problem there. When it is warmer out (over 50) it will start up. Under and pretty much no go. So I think that it is my AFM or TPS. My thinking is that either when it is cold my TPS is sticking shut or I am getting a wrong reading to my computer from the air temp sensor or the AFM is giving me too much fuel compared to air flow. I really think that it is an air issue. Once it starts up for the next minute or two if I give it gas it will rev low, choke up , and sometimes back fire in the intake. This seems to me that I am not getting enough air and when I gas it it starves for air and then chokes up. That said how do I check those things to see if that is the problem. I'm hoping that someone has had a similiar problem and it saves me a trip to the shop. Thanks as always Kyle

Hey all, I am revisiting this problem mainly cause I haven't fixed it yet and it is getting harder to start in the morning. I haven't ruled anything out yet but this is what I think. I am thinking that my fuel is fine. I haven't checked pressure yet but it just seems ok. I am thinking that my Air Flow Meter is ieter sticking shut when cold or reading bad measurements. This is because after I can get it started it chokes up and wants to die if I give it gas. Almost as if it isn;t getting enough air. Since fuel is at a constant pressure this could be the only cause right? IF I were to replace the AFM would I need to get it tuned up or is it plug and play? And should I buy new or buy from someone selling old stuf cause of a v8 swap? What do y'all think? Thanks as always, Kyle Just added: Well, for the last few days I needed to jump the car cause I would try and start it intill the battery slowed beyond cranking. It worked though. After jumping the car it would generally start on the 2nd try or 3rd. I just came back in from trying that and no go. I can't get it started at all today. Now it is mighty fridged for Oakland. There was a good thick layer of frost on the car. I will try again later. Could my starter be going? I couldn't get a good high reving start out of the battery even when I switched my wifes with mine. Everyonce in a while it will grind like it has teeth missing. I don't know much about starters. Maybe it isn't spinning fast enough. I know this is probably not my only problem but what do you think?

This is what I got on temps for you all. ABS (cheap, low forming temp [200ºF], not too strong) Vivak (low forming temp[250ºF], strong, cheap, slightly photo degradable) Lexan (High forming temp[350ºF], expensive, extremely strong and stable) A heat gun really sucks for propper heat distribution. It getts reall hot in small areas and is a pain to properly keep all areas the same temp. In order to get a good mold you want all the material to be around the same temp. Otherwise parts cool faster and you don't get a good shape. Things to use if you are to make your own heater is some kind of refelctor panel ( metal sheet) and electric oven elements. They heat up evenly and cover a wide area. Once the material sags evenly it can be formed. Any more questions I can find answers (hopefuly)

I am a model maker and prototyper. I have had experience with vacuum molding in the past. I don't know about using pressure to blow the mold on. Sucking the plex on to the mold is a tried and true method. It is easy to make a vacuum box and use your shop vac. You can also make your mold and have a shop do the forming. You can use lexan, plex, polycarb. They all bend at the same temp or around there, as far as I know. For a mold pretty much anything is good. As long as it is durrable enough like high density foam, or plaster. I can probably give you specifics and find out anything that you might need to know. I also have access to a good sixe vacuum former at my grad school. I am in a masters program at SFSU for industrial design. Let me know if I can help.

right after reading this post originally a few days ago the next day while in Berkely at 4th street a great looking grey e type drove past me while I was walking by. Never seen one in person and wow it is nice.

could be possible coincidence that your swithc failed. Or their are wires that lead to the lights that could be damaged. If you search for it there is a great relay conversion the someone did the takes the load off the switch and puts it on two relays. Haven't done it yet but I definately will. This is the url. Hope it helps, http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm

I like the one that comes on the new celica's. Would be real easy to put on over the rear hatch window. Havent seen the aurora's yet but will keep an eye out.

contact the Z doctor in Richmond CA at 1-510-237-9645. They are the ones that replaced mine when I couldn't get it off. I don't think that it was real expensive. Good luck

try Bestine. It is rubber cement thinner/solvent. I am a architectural model maker and when I try and take off tape or tape residue I use Bestine as to not hurt the paint underneath. It might work for your purposes. It can be had at art stores I believe.

you can contact crutchfield.com they have all the answers

Thank you for doing all this great work. I wanted miata seats and now I have other options too. Great job.

with the astro radiator you will need to fabricate or buy mounts that JTR sells. He has upper and lower ones available or I could probably take pics of the ones that I have for you.

contact jags@tdl.com That is the email of Mike Knell who wrote the JTR conversion book. He sells them for like 140 or somewhere around there. He could either sell you one or tell you about it.

the astro radiator is the one that JTR recommends. I jsut put on e in my l28 and it works great for me.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I replaced the alternator today and jumped the car and all seems fine. The test will be in how long the alternator lasts. But I drove all over and started and stopped the engine, plus I ran all my lights, hazards, radio, rear defroster, etc and still it ran. So I think that all it was, was the alternator. It is nice to have people reassure you as to what you think it could be. Thanks again, this place rocks, Kyle

it could easilly enough be that there is air trapped in your heater core. Not allowing proper flow of fluid. Like in an old water radiator in a house. The more air the less heat. Or you could have a vacuum leak and it isn't adjusting properly.

what are you going to do for a grill? Can't wait to see it fully complete, looks great.

Thanks for the reply. I do believe that I have an internally regulated alternator. I have a 78 and my manual says it is internal . I hope that I am right. As for replavements, is Bosch ok? Thanks again, Kyle