Filmjay

Sorry to necro this thread, but I've searched and I'm still wondering something... ...the "normal" LHD 240Z engine is purposely mounted at a right hand offset to compensate for the drivers' weight and keep a good balance throughout the car. To retain said balance, wouldn't you need to modify the motor mounts/spacers to offset more to the left? Since, without doing that, you're just adding more weight to the right side and totally throwing off the natural good balance of the car...

I don't know how much older versions of the manual are different, but in mine this is mentioned in the first chapter and provides detailed diagrams on where to modify the spacer and mount. I did notice that there's a downloadable .PDF update (chapter 12, Cooling) to the JTR book.

You really dropped some $$$ for the full AZC suspension/brake setup. I'm quite sure it'll be worth every penny though. Nothing like doing it all right the first time though. Looks great! I can't wait to see more!!!

If you buy the JTR book, they have templates of the mounts that you can fab up yourself. Best tip is to buy the JTR V8 conversion book. I don't even have my 240 yet and just got my book in the mail a few days ago. It's well done and I can see that it is invaluable in attempting a Z-car V8 swap. I'm glad I spent the $$$ on the book first so that by the time I'm ready for the motor, I'll have it practically memorized. Get the book!!!

No sir. Any required bends should be within the segment.

That's a great tip for DIY LED markers. Add some heat shrink to the new wires, and it's even better!

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-7317 There's a couple options for what you're looking for, but I'm sure at a bit more of a premium price compared to what you were looking at on ebay. When looking for parts...always remember...Google is your friend.

I'd look for an LS1. The intake runner design of the LS flows far more efficiently than the LT1. A stock Gen3 LS1 (97-01 Corvette) was rated between 345-382hp...depending on application. The Gen4 LT1's (93-02 Camaro) were only rated for 275-285hp The sweet spot for LS1's were the 01 Vette. The '01 LS1 got the intake from the new LS6, got a slight bump in HP (+5hp), and had a new cam that allowed GM to remove the EGR system from the motor. Another option could be a 4.4L Northstar (LC3) and supercharger unit from an 06+ Caddy STS-V and XLR-V. IF you can find one of these Caddy's junked, you'd be looking at a rated 469hp. About 320hp from the non-supecharged versions. I don't see many(any) in Z-cars, and (depending on your metal working/fabrication ability) it's only a matter of moving the lower-right bolt hole up about an inch on a 700R4 or stick shift bellhousing from an S10 truck and a custom flywheel available from www.chrfab.com.

THIS I love! /right-click, /bookmark

I'd say for the smaller patches, going thinner would be ok. But for anything for a large area, I'd go thicker to help alleviate any waviness. just my .02

Funny you should say that, I've JUST received an email from him about a replacement back half. Which, I will probably end up doing. Having two full kits would be GREAT...especially for the price of one. I already have two motors, so I could finish one for myself and one for my son. How cool would that be?

I wouldn't either....except for the fact that what's included FAR outstrips the asking price by nearly quadruple. I know, b/c I've priced everything individually myself. I want the body kits and the genuine Ferrari accessories he's including mainly. Thunder Ranch and VR components. I just wished to gauge the "fixability" of the damaged one. I can do the repairs, as the frame is straight, I just don't have much experience w/ Z-cars...yet. I'd probably strip the damaged one and find a good donor, then just get the back half of the kit to complete it...OR use the extra kit to complete it. Either way, I'm still looking for a decent 71-74 240. Thanks for all your opinions!

What Grumpy said.... I'm not a great welder, but my dad's a master welder and certified instructor. Here's what he told me when I asked him the same thing recently... a basic 110 volt MIG is good for up to 3/16" mild steel. (body panels, exhaust tubing, etc...) but, you'll want to get into TIG, or even stick welding for anything thicker...and that's where the real money and skill comes in. For basic use and learning purposes, you can pick up a Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart 110-volt MIG machine for a little over $100 on ebay. They're not the most powerful or versatile, but for learning they're good. You're not gonna be welding nuclear reactors on aircraft carriers any time soon, but it's plenty to replace rocker panels and floor pans.

As long as the block is good, I'd grab it. It could be a GREAT engine-building practice motor. ...and if you don't, let me know. I'm not far from you and might be able to do something with it.

Put it in one of these.... http://www.lilbigrig.com/Home_Page.php

HAHA! You're right. It DOES look like it's backwards. But, I think it's because those wings are meant to be mounted on a flat deck lid instead of an angled hatchback.

That looks great!!!!! Sorry, I didn't read through the fine details, but what cage kit is that? Jegs? I've put a Jegs cage in a 71 Nova before, but I haven't worked on Z-cars..yet..still looking for a good 240 that's not a total dog or a beauty queen. Have any troubles to speak of?

Using segmented sections is used to tune the exhaust system in specific lengths. But, it's usually done from a custom header on each individual pipe and involves complex physics. A segmented, tuned exhaust system can net more HP than a normal mandrel bent or cat-back system. A correctly tuned system can increase chamber scavenging, increase the fuel charge in the combustion chamber, as well as increase exhaust flow OUT of the chamber. To get the best gains each pipe MUST be separate with no shared chambers. (resonators, collectors, mufflers, etc...) Because pressure waves move at approx. the speed of sound....assuming you know the temperatures of the exhaust gasses....a rough calculation can be made by measuring the time that it takes for the pressure wave to move from the exhaust valve to the end of the pipe, and back again... Here's a good online calculator I found, in case anyone's interested....otherwise you gotta bust out the calculator, or worse...think about it.. LOL! http://www.mez.co.uk/mezporting/exhaust_length.html

Very nice pics. The driving shots look pro.

You can calculate downforce as follows.... Aerodynamic forces have the following form: F = 0.5 * A * coeff * ro * v^2. Here, F = force, A = area of application (for example the total area of the front of the car, as viewed from the front), v is the speed of the car (in m/s), ro is the air density (1.225 at 15 degrees Celcius is a default value), Furthermore, 'A' can be split for wings into span and cord (width and depth), where A = span * cord. For wings, you can also (for the linear region) add the angle (in radians) into this, so you get: F = 0.5 * span * cord * angle * coeff * ro * v^2 http://www.racer.nl/tutorial/wings.htm -link to original ...but it ca be pretty tricky to accurately figure due to variables like air density. But, I guess a rough estimate is better than none.

Got a project 240 that just needs more time than you have? I'm looking for a 71-74 240Z for GTO conversion. So, I'm not looking for your complete fully modded or resto'd car. Not gonna spend 5K on a really nice car to just be refabbed. I expect some rust, but don't wish to be doing full panel replacements if possible. Drivable condition would be a plus, but not required depending on condition. NO CALIFORNIA/WEST COAST CARS!!! While they are the better examples, I don't have the time to come get it from TN and transport costs too much these days. OF course, consideration WOULD be made for a West Coast car depending on the price/condition, because I still have to factor transport into the cost. ...and if you're in Canada...it's a waste. International transport costs would be far too much. I know I'm probably asking a tad much, but it never hurts to ask...and what better place? Thanks for reading. If you have or know someone who has a decent 240 for sale, drop me a PM here and I will forward my email address. Thanks, -Jay

It's in Ontario.

It would be a GREAT donor car for another GTO conversion though. Especially since he's also including a separate unused Alpha1 GTO body kit. Not to mention the wheels, badges, and all the other goodies. Of course, I'd still need to find a straight, undamaged 240. I just CAN'T find any transport co. that'll go into Canada for less than $1600. Which is f'n ridiculous. I'll post up the pics the guys sent me later on.

Ya, that's kinda what I was thinking. It looks like the rear is now tucked up under what's left of the hatch. lol It was kind of a good deal though. It's a completed 250GTO Conversion AND he's including another full 250GTO body kit with it. For what he's asking, the unused "spare" body kit alone is worth it. Sadly, I can't get a decent quote on transportation from Canada...I've moved cars from TN to Cali for less than half what I'm getting quoted. Of course, that was before gas was $3-$4/gallon. I'd go get it myself, but I don't have a trailer and don't think it would all fit in the trunk of the road trip Honda. LOL!!!

Based on this picture...... How extensive would you estimate repairs? I don't have the experience with Z-cars to make an accurate judgment. While it is EXACTLY what I'm looking for, I'd be worried about the car being straight. Please advise. ....and sorry if this is in the wrong section...