Forrest

I've seen several of them go for over 300$, not including shipping from Japan, without the HKS BOV or intake manifold. I don't think the price is unreasonable, if you've been looking for that stuff.

That's the one they used in Wangan Midnight. Pretty cool. I prefer the cartech design, though.

In light of my problems: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113035 I've had 4 other members with AZC brakes + 79 master tell me they also had a spongy but linear pedal feel. It has been suggested that the 79 280zx master is not a large enough bore for our brakes. Before I go buy a 4th master cylinder, is there anyone who has AZC brakes on all 4 corners, is using the 79 master, and has a firm pedal? (At least as firm as stock anyway.) Please let me know if you are, thanks. -Forrest

Austin, did you put in the porportioning valve? Are you running the 79 MC too?

Jon, I pulled the disc out. The hole it came out of looks greasy - I'm guessing it's supposed to. The disc looks ok to me, still rubbery and there is no dirt on it or behind it. How can I check and see if it's sealing correctly? Anything else I should look for while it's open? Thanks for the help!

Yes.

Thanks. Maybe I'm not bench bleeding them correctly? I bench bled the first master with a set of brakelines connected to the bottom, recirculating to the top. I didn't have those lines today, so I when I bled the second one, I used the bleed screws on the side. I'm not seeing any more air come out of the lines now like it was with the first one. I guess I'll take it back off tomorrow and try again. I can't think of anything else to do at this point.

I've been trying for a week to get my brake pedal to feel "normal" and so far I've been completely unsuccessful. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me hear them. The car has been down for 19 months while me and a friend of mine cut up our suspensions, measured, welded, cleaned, powdercoated, etc. Along the way I've had a lot of distractions, but the point is, now all the new and modified suspension/brakes are on the car. The only problem is, my brake pedal feels very spongy. By spongy, I mean, it goes down too easily, but it's not slack, like when you have air and the pedal is really soft until it's all compressed, and then the pedal is suddenly hard. It's just not very firm and it slowly gets harder after you press down much farther than you ever normally would to stop the car. I have the 4piston AZ-Z brakes on the car, with a brand new 79 280zx master cylinder and stainless lines. I got the front brakes new from AZ-Z and the rears were "slightly" used from Kyle at Z-driver. I bled the brakes with a pressure bleeder 3 times before taking the car off stands, just because it's so easy when it's up in the air without wheels. The 2nd and 3rd time there was basically no air coming out. I couldn't start the car up but the pedal felt very firm without the booster (no real surprise.) So a couple of weeks ago I finally get it fired up and try to drive around the block and low and behold, the pedal is really spongy and feels scary. I drive back in to bleed it and expect to see a lot of air coming out, but almost none comes out, with the exception of a few really really tiny bubbles here and there. After bleeding the pedal feels exactly the same. I've read all the posts about people having problems after swapping masters, so I was really careful about not moving the rod when I swapped my master out. I also measured from the cup to the edge of the flange on the stock and the 79 master and the distance is almost exactly the same, so no adjustment of the rod should be necessary. It doesn't feel like it is either, pressing the pedal just a tiny amount can make the calipers start moving, far before the pedal gets firm. I called Dave to see if it would make any difference if the Wilwood porportioning valve was installed. I have held off on putting this in because he is supposed to be selling a rear linelock kit that is controlled by the stock handbrake handle. I want to put that in at the same time. He told me not to use the pressure bleeder to bleed, and the pedal should still be firm without the extra porp valve. Now, I've used the pressure bleeder to bleed brakes on at least 6 other cars and it's worked very well. I use low pressure and I pump it slowly. It's never been a problem. But at this point I'm actually hoping it is the problem and very willing to try anything to fix it. Before trying to manually bleed, I took the master off and pulled the rod out of the booster. The reaction disc was not glued on the end of the rod any more but it was firmly in place in the indention that it normally sits in at the end of the rod. I reassembled it all, and then I spent 2 hours and bled over 2 quarts of brake fluid through my brakes with a friend of mine. I made sure he knew the correct way to manually bleed (steady pressure on the pedal to the floor, let up slowly.) I notice that under a really bright light you can see really really tiny bubbles coming out of the master. In daylight they would be invisible; they look like tiny flecks of dust. There are not a ton of them but they keep coming out. At the end of the night the pedal is exactly the same as it was when we started. So thinking that the master must be bad, because these really tiny bubbles keep appearing, even after I've bled over a pint through the front reservoir master alone, I swapped another 79 master that I had bought for the other car in, and bled it again (manually.) Maybe the other master was bad, or maybe there was just a lot of tiny air bubbles trapped in the fluid that regrouped. After bleeding the new master I don't see many tiny bubbles. But I do start seeing what looks like really tiny pieces of trash. It's not round so it's not air. I bled the entire car again and I saw it coming out everywhere. This is brand new brake fluid of course, (having gone through about 6 quarts at this point it had to be.) This stuff is so tiny and so hard to see, there is no way anyone would notice it during a routine bleed. I had to put the spotlight directly on the bleed hose. I don't know where it's coming from or if it's even relevant. After bleeding the entire car for another 2.5 hours tonight, the pedal is exactly the same. Before and during the bleeding, I went and rechecked all the connections to see if any of them were leaking. I've looked at them all before and they have all been dry. But this time I put the wrench on them and tried to tighten them. They were all pretty tight and moved very little if at all. The only thing I haven't done is tried to adjust the pedal, but it moves the calipers when you press it very slightly. I'm worried that if I try to adjust it down a little bit, the brakes will be dragging all the time. I talked to a friend of mine that suggested trying to spin all the wheels to see if all the calipers were moving. I did this and all them are grabbing hard enough that there is no way for me to turn the tire by hand with the brake depressed. Maybe one of the calipers could still have a problem? I can't think of anything else except that maybe I got 2 bad master cylinders in a row. The second one was part of a small lot of random new old stock Nissan parts. It -does- look a little aged but it's new. I'm guessing the trash is coming out of there. I ordered a 3rd one just in case. If I can't find anything wrong before it comes in, I'll try swapping that one too. Any suggestions welcome. This is really really getting me down. The car is ready to go tear up some road and this is the only real holdup. Thanks in advance.

What offset are your rear wheels?

High is not the issue for me, it's the fact that they're blatantly false. 800HP L28ET? Arbitrary x amount of HP increase? And then saying "oh, I don't have facts to back up my claims, but it's just common sense that I'm right" - huge turnoff. Header looks cool, but his sales technique makes him sound like he's selling an "electric supercharger."

Science -is- logical. His auction description definitely made sure I would never buy his manifold. No, I wouldn't trust a bold-faced liar, no matter how good the product looks.

Did you swap your throwout bearing collar for the shorter one that came on a 2+2 (for use with a 240mm flywheel) ?

Well it's definitely not on the road yet, I can't drive it like this. It's not the reaction disc - took the MC off and pulled the rod out, it was still in place. I manually bled the brakes for another 2 hours tonight per AZ-Dave's suggestion. I can't tell if it made a difference or not, maybe. Really really tiny bubbles were coming out, but you couldn't have seen them normally, I had a bright light 3" from the hose. I put an entire pint through one of the calipers and they still came out. Pedal is still not nearly as firm as it should be. Ordered (another) brand new master. Anyone else with aftermarket brakes have a problem pressure bleeding? The pressure bleeder has always worked great - I don't pump it up past 6psi or so. The pedal in my stock car is perfect after pressure bleeding, and it takes literally less than 10 minutes to do the entire car, including removing/replacing the wheels.

Do you have any room between the tire and the strut housing to possibly move it in a little?

Kroyle, 12 ton press, acetylene torch, and a sledge hammer, and 4 days later, 7 pins were removed. Most of them didn't want to come out even with all that persuasion. One of them took a nice chunk of housing along with it. I'm never doing that again, not even for a whole bottle of scotch.

bjhines, That made my day. Thank you. It seems like no one gets what they deserve any more.

I want to hear how bad this heat wave is in CA. It's been 95-98 degrees here with 50-65% humidity and no wind. I can't breathe outside, even at night. But I did just get my car running!

I officially have a problem with my brakes/booster - I bled the master and then the brakes again and there was zero air in them. I guess it's the reaction disc or the check valve, or the booster has some other problem. I was so ridiculously careful not to move the rod when I replaced the MC, I can't believe it's the reaction disc, but I guess I have to take it off tonight and see. I wonder if it's possible to take the booster off without disconnecting the hardlines from the master. I would have tried last night but the roaches always attack at about 11-11:30pm. I usually take a few down and then retreat into the house. I'm running low on carb cleaner and brake parts cleaner and last night I had to resort to aircraft stripper, which doesn't have any range.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IQLNA/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_k2a_2_txt/102-9213649-5181712?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=130

Anyone seen this? I've watched the first 2, and there are a ton of Z's...the bad guys always seem to drive them. No first gens yet. But this is pretty hilarious stuff.

Unplug your starter and turn the key to "start" and hold it for a while and read your fuel pressure. It should go up to 36-37psi. If it's lower you need a new regulator.

Ridiculous camber:

Thank you sir!