Forrest

The actual math tested on the GRE is on a lower level than the math tested on the ACT, believe it or not. There's no trig. The hardest questions are the graph questions, because they like to ask for mathematical relationships no one would ever calculate in real life. Like, what's the percent increase of the percent increase of the random crap on this chart. But those are usually 750+ level questions, so you don't have to worry about it. Just be careful for answers that look convenient or familiar. <-- standardized test veteran.

1000 should be no problem, just remember that it's testing how well you can identify trick questions, not how much high school math you remember. Go slower at the beginning of each of the sections. Adaptive computer tests are a LOT harder than paper tests. I could have given you more advice and some vocab lists if you'd posted a month or two before the test, but I'm sure you'll do fine.

For a budget of only 500$, it should all go to suspension. Since you said you already have good tires (I hope you really meant that) I'd go buy one of the tokico shock/spring kits, and a poly bushing kit. Then look for swaybars. Oops, that's about 850$. Well, at least it was easy! I wouldn't bother with anything else until you are done with that stuff. And if you don't have another car to drive every day, don't spend any of it. Keep it in a savings account for "when 30 year old parts go bad" days. P.S. I will never believe the 240sx TB "adds 15 hp" to the stock engine without a whole lot of dyno runs that back it up. It doesn't bolt up with the stock linkage, either, you need a spacer.

Haha, that's what I was thinking for a second. "OH NO, someone's coming from the other direction, watch out!!" Looks good!

I like the idea, but it's out of my price range. If I spent 80k on a car, it would have to have a lot more than 180ftlbs of peak torque.

John, maybe you've been really lucky, or maybe it's the humidity down here. Out of the 8 pins I've removed/helped remove, only one of them came out with the air hammer. Believe me, we tried (for hours at a time.) Eventually we just went and got a 12-ton press. Even then, it still took a lot of time, patience and heat from a torch to get each one out.

Evil, yes I always bleed them both, outer, inner, then outer again. And I've tapped on them with a wrench every time I've bled them. I've lost count of how many times I've bled these things now. There's no worse feeling in the world than to spend 2 hours bleeding and bleeding and bleeding and see little or no air come out, then get back in the car and feel absolutely no difference. I think my old booster was not working that well, and I wanted to eliminate that variable. With the new one in, the pedal is even softer. Shoot me now.

I'm ready to set the car on fire. I just replaced the booster, as my old one was nasty and had fluid in it, and bled again for 2 hours, 2 quarts of fluid. Another 14$ down the drain. No air at all in my lines, and the pedal is still soft. I've now replaced every part of the brake system with new parts except the original hardlines and stock porp valve.

You'll need an FSM no matter what motor you go with. But yes, the engines are very similar. To see if the pistons are dished just pull out some spark plugs until you can see the top of one of them. If you have a low compression engine - don't despair. Just put a turbo on it!

Definitely buy an FSM. That's interesting that it has a turbo head and (possibly) block...did the previous owner tell you why? Did he shave the head or maybe put it on a flattop F54?

I've had this problem on all 3 of my cars. On the 77, it was just the fusible link. On the 76 it was the light switch - this only takes a second to test with a volt meter once the cover is off. Since new oem switches are almost 100$, I just wired a seperate 1$ switch to the contacts. On my 78, it was just corrosion or a slightly loose connection on the harness underneath the steering column - the power wire from the fusible links. Once I disconnected and reconnected it, everything worked fine.

Are they on the board? Could you ask them to post if they're not? Thanks!

I just found methanol here for 2.87$ a gallon...not bad!

This is the only fuel additive I see on their website. Are you guys talking about a different one? http://www.vpracingfuels.com/system_cleaner.html Which additive caused a problem with the pump?

If you pull on the rod hard enough, the locking ring will come out without being damaged - the seal will put even pressure along the back of the ring

Joel, you should give Sam a call about the welding supplies. Btw, how is your car coming? Is the engine bay painted?

Sorry man, you lost me, VP? And are you talking about the stock fuel pump? I won't be running any methanol through the regular gas lines. Thanks 510six - it's the Klotz "Uplon" Fuel Lube that I was trying to find. Now I just have to find a local place that sells their stuff. They don't have any distributors or retailers on their website...where did you buy yours?

Hey - anyone that's running pure methanol in an alcohol injection system, I was wondering how much you usually have to pay per gallon, and where you purchase it. Also, when I was researching this several years ago, I read about a new type of lubricant to add to methanol to combat it's corrosive properties. I'm having trouble finding any references to it...if you happen to know what I'm talking about, please let me know. Thanks!

Your friend may have done you a favor...you definitely need to cut that all out before it gets worse underneath.

I had no fumes problems in my 77 or 78. The rear hatch gasket in my 76 is missing and still I only occasionally get fumes. I'm sure you can get a Z without leaks...Z all the way! Z32's are nice, but I've heard they are a nightmare to work on. Do you have a lift in your garage?

I just cleaned out the local NAPA - part number VV854, $6.29 per. That's pretty decent! I was paying almost that much for Mobile1 synthetic. Here's the loot! Here's my valvoline modeling bid: I'm sure they'll call soon.

Didn't your "Danger to manifold" warning light come on?? Hope to see you there Jon.

I'd leave it on there, that will probably protect you from door dings.

When I got my car, it had 215/50/17's on 17x7. They are a little tall.