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About Marlin2

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    National City, CA, US
  1. This is really interesting! Kind of put's a spin on buying cars outside of CA. Are you saying that any car purchased outside has to be inspected? Certainly all those muscle cars with 350 swaps don't get inspected. If it were an issue, it might be worth it to pull the engine and get it inspected then? Or is this something were you are actually trying to get it registered as having an engine swap?
  2. I can't tell from the picture, but could you combine these ITB's and a SK-style intake (with ports on each individual runner) in order to hook up 6 Bosch 02 sensors and measure A/F directly? I'd think that'd be a very precise setup. To trade my Dellortos in for these though, I don't know... Edit : Off topic article on carburetor's http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a25816/lost-art-the-weber-sidedraft-carburetor/
  3. You're completely right Tony, like I said, lesson learned.
  4. I often think about opening a small auto shop in CA but for the very reasons listed above I haven't seriously considered it. I know just to hook up an OBD2 sensor the going price is $100, because the darn machines are so expensive. I think there is good and honest money to be had in this business, but unfortunately rent is so outrageously high down here. Thanks for the tool! However just to clarify, that rate is if you bring your vehicle in and they have to disassemble and reassemble everything.
  5. The only special tool the mechanic required for my knuckle was a disk to fit inside and on the bearing, and a tool for the c - clip. It wasn't a fancy gig. The clerk justified his price by saying the press cost $1500. But I do agree with you, when you go to a mechanic shop you are paying overhead, to include the price of their tools and the convenience. So I checked a couple websites, Harbor Freight, Summit, and the cost of a good 6-ton press can be easily had for $100. Then I checked the price for the press kit. Those range from $30 to $500+ but again, Summit sells a good one for $50. I still need one more hub assembly pressed, and will probably need it done again some time later in my life. I think I might just make the $150 dollar investment now and hook myself and a couple buddies up. So if anyone is in the SD area and needs this done, I'd be happy to do it for ya, for an arm and leg.
  6. You're right, that was my mistake, and I shouldn't of made it. At the time I was just so upset at myself for allowing it to happen. Next time, I'll get the price in writing beforehand. No, it was an old Ford Focus I use as my daily driver. But thank you for teaching me something about my Z After reading your comments again I felt like a huge schmuck. I do understand that shops here in SoCa charge way upwards of $100 an hour for labor. Still I couldn't sleep on it so I looked it up and for any of you who care to learn, here is what is required to press a bearing in/out of a steering knuckle on most modern cars: Proper installation of press-in style front wheel bearing The video is 5 minutes long, and includes a very in depth explanation. What I brought to the mechanic was all the parts, a steering knuckle with the hub and c-clip removed, and all of the bearing, except for the outer ring still inside. The mechanic had to press the ring out, press the new bearing in (doesn't have ABS so who cares what side), press the new hub in, and install the new c-clip. Total time for realistic labor = 3 minutes. I'd expect most mechanics to be able to do it under less. I don't know, I still don't feel like $40 was an honest/fair price.
  7. I feel like I might have overreacted today. I took my steering knuckle in to get the outer ring of my wheel bearing pressed out, and then had them press in a sealed bearing and hub...they wanted $50 and I payed $40 to avoid the cops. Something tells me this should of only been a $30 "tip" and a good ol' fashioned handshake. After all, I wanted to come back the next day with the other hub. Any thoughts?
  8. When I think of historic vehicles, images of cars prior to 1940 pop out. Maybe keep the historical vehicle plates for later and just rock the vintage green ones? They look nice.
  9. Hi boost, listing stuff in the For Sale part of the forum is for members who have donated.
  10. Taken off of my 3/71 series 2; I have an ash tray, vent knob, heater housing thing with levers, and I'll PM you where to buy the piston. I'm really busy this week so I can't send photos until the weekend. I'd charge $10+shipping
  11. As the title says I'm Looking for a 1970 240z shell, doesn't need to be rolling. Will need a clean title, open to out of state cars if they're worth it. Please PM me for a faster response! Thanks.
  12. Very beautiful looking car! Are those trim pieces or part of the body going up at an inward angle from the fender flares to the roof?
  13. Hey there, I came a little to late to the party and noticed your amazing thread on the 432 grills! I was wondering if you have or know where to purchase the 432R replica grills with the thin mesh? I quickly checked motorsport auto but they sell your z432 wide mesh I believe, and not the 432r. Any help would be more than appreciated! Thanks, Marlin

    1. 1 tuff z

      1 tuff z

      Marlin2, for the repro grill I was able to locate & purchase 2 original grills plus the one that's on my 72 Fairlady Z. I did this as to most accurately replicate the OE expanded metal gauge [mesh]. With that said I wasn't able to find an uber rare R grill or even find the measurements or specifications for that expanded metal. Sorry, but I can't help on your search.


  14. Really enjoyed reading this, I was originally from Oregon as well and have a similar story. My suggestion to you, keep your Honda. Or, like myself, buy a very cheap yet reliable daily driver. That way, you can take your time with your 240z, as you'll want to...and at times, you'll have to. Like you I bought my first 240z wanting it to be my daily driver. Very quickly did I realize I needed something a little more comfortable to drive around traffic, so I picked up a zx3 focus hatchback for $2500. That allows me to build up my 240z as powerful as I want (and can afford $$$). My 240z is not fun to drive in stop and go traffic, at the moment she's not near finished, and it can be scary as hell in the middle of the freeway on I-5 after work. I don't know how long you've been in CA, but the drivers are crazy. It's only a matter of time till your car gets scratched, and by the time you pour $10k+ into it, you'll really not want to risk mangling up the body as a daily driver. Sell your Honda, take $3000, go buy the best car you can find, and save a little $$$ for tune ups and pour the rest into making your 240z safe. Drive your other car as a daily, have a little more piece of mind when driving, enjoy the luxury and pay practically nothing for insurance through USAA. Then build your 240z up to be a street/track car....which is different than a daily driver....and REALLY enjoy her. (Or keep your Honda, as it'll be more reliable than a 140K mi $3000 car.) Best of luck. If you're in SoCal send me a PM. P.S. 1. Go take pictures of your car in a garage, call USAA and get collectors car insurance. 2. Drop USAA roadside assistance and get ALLSTATE's Premium package. Unlimited tows covering $250 a piece
  15. As far as new cars go then a Lotus 7 would have to be it. If I could trade my 240z for anything in the past it would be one of the following: 1920's Bugatti Type 35B 1920's Alfa Romeo 8C 1924 Bentley Twin Turbo 1961 ZIL-112 Sports car - It featured the inline 8 cylinder engine out of the ZiL-111, which was good for about 230 hp. It sported a limited slip diff, radial tires, and disc brakes, all firsts for Soviet Union-produced cars. Anything carb'ed with an XK6 or Speed Six motor or I8...
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