ModernS30

I call dibs on Phil's built L28 when he decides he wants and RB in the z. You know its going to happen.

I demand a driving video of the car!

Fantastic! Just got her started and running, what, Tuesday night! Just need to finish up my rear end, Button up a few things, Fluids, drive. I can't wait! I am for sure going to have to check out your car sometime.

To be honest. That what happens when you buy something claimed to be extremely high HP from somebody else, then not go through it before you beat on it. Not saying it wouldn't have happened if you did crack it open before dynoing and everything. Just maybe it could have been prevented.

I went to the.. Uh, august? Meet, one before this just previous one. Its possible, I am not very good with names. My name is Kinser Hair. I had a Red, ugly, beat up, 240sx. If you are on Indyzcarclub.org, I have a build thread in the forums under the same screen name as here.

Yep... Honestly it happens to the best of us. Not that I am the one of the best, but we all make stupid careless mistakes. This happened to be a double face palm one. The reason why the ECU was unpluged was to be safe when I was welding on the transmission mount. I had the car started with the old coil and it went bad with the main EFI relay for some reason. Replaced coil, (wired bad) searched for issues. Came to the EFI relay (fuel pump was also not clicking on). Replaced that seeing as how it wasn't sending power to the ECU. Then I tried starting it (ECU plugged in). Obviously, coil wired backwards, it would not send injectors signal. So I had unplugged the ECU and had welded some stuff. I never plugged it back in. I fixed the coil, found that from the FSM. Then tried to start it again. Wouldn't, went to bleed clutch and noticed the ECU was unplugged. Right then and there I was like, oh my god, I am a retard. Obviously a car will no start without the ECU. Well, plug it in, crank, braaaaaapppp. The AFM wasn't sealed so idle was really hard. I think after I seal that up and cap a few vacuum connectors it should be great. Thank you for dealing with my hooligan-ery. I am glad you didn't totally freak out on me. I cannot find what the wire going to the Dizzy with that condesner in it was for though. Is it really just a ground? I shouldn't have any issues without this thing there?

Have a great one man!

Impresive! I knew it could get the 500hp range with not a problem. Same question as above, what boost? That insane claim was on I think 30? PSI, probably with a 150 shot. I could see it with a 150 shot. Do I think the engine would last making that power on a 150 shot? No, do I think its impressive? Yes.

Take 1500 for that. Especially in CA. The cars are much more common to be found clean on your coast. 1500 is a good deal.

Yes Sir. =D Except it seemed fairly strange to me. The injectors seemed to be clicking with every tap, not just 3 taps. Non the less, it started. I will be honest, stupid mistakes. Thinks I had over looked. When I installed the new coil, I had un done the old coil but did not label the wires. Put the - + backwards on the coil. This is why I was getting no spark when grounding out the - post. Also the spark from the plug wire was Orange and not blue, should have hinted to me. The worst mistake, I didn't notice till I went to bleed the clutch. The ECU.... Was not... Pluged in! Major FacePalm.......

Looks like a fantastic start. That rust is nothing! The roof was obviously messed up back in the day. I can't tell if they put a different one on of if they hadn't realized how the roof is leaded in from the factory.

You live on the West side of Indianapolis? You said Gasoline alley which = Indiana from what I know.

Fair enough. I cannot argue with greater knowledge. I was aware of the issue of the pedal tiring your foot for daily driving or long trips.

Not at all. I am still worried about it though. (Call me a jackass it is 100% fitting ) I don't think I should be running without it. It plugs to the dizzy.

Well, when I used to search, no matter if results were on the very first page when you searched or not. I would always go at least 10 pages deeper, sometimes many more. I have found that the longer you spend searching the more you will find. Whether you found something already or not. Many threads you find will link to other threads, that link to more. This site has more information than one person could read in a month. When I search, I open tabs, once I have to many. I go through each tap one by one. Open new tabs from links I find else ware in the already opened tabs. Continue till I get the tabs gone. Then I go back to the first search page and start opening tabs some more. If you are motivated to find it, you will find it. That's quite a bit off topic though.

First things first, I do want to thank every person who donates to the site and especially the Owner and Admins/Moderators. Without them, this site would not be here running how it does. I think since the new board switch the search hasn't worked as well. This isn't a big deal to me, its expected, things change, not everything can be perfect. I think absolutely no links should be posted in a horrible noob thread. Unless, or course, the link is to the rules. I don't see a problem with that. I want to say this one more time, I am not condoning spoon feeding here. I have great respect for all the members that give us their time to bring us knowledge. I cannot say I know what it is like to have somebody ask a question you have already answered that is readily available information. I have a feeling that is rather frustrating. There are obviously a many valid points for both sides of this discussion. Tony, you make a very good point with the cleaning up the mess deal. I used to be one that if a new member posted a bad post, I would respond very negative. I came to the decision that no response at all is better than something negative. A smart a$$ comment isn't going to tell the new member he/she needs to spell something right, use proper grammar. It is just going to be offensive. I do not see a problem with saying "You need to re-read the rules that you agreed to follow. Until you can properly use basic skill of the English language then you won't get any information." Something along those lines. I hope you understand what I am getting at here?

If you really have an issue. Large spring should fix it. A spring that shows more resistance could help you not push the pedal so fast/easy. Honestly, that is how you adjust a pedal movement speed issue. If your driving a stick you should be able to overcome the issue.

I have tried to find a new condenser for the one that was damaged and could not. I got the car running. A few stupid mistakes with the wiring. Sorry I am human, thanks for any and all help!

I think this is a fantastic Idea. I am glad to see everybody is actually getting in on this discussion. Wether you think its getting out of hand or its how it should be. I am not saying lets just give hand outs, no spoon feeding, guidence and spoon feeding are different. Respect is a big thing for me, its a give get basis. If a new member comes in, don't give a disrespectful reply. If he does something wrong, respectfully explain. If the member makes repeat offences things may be different. I will say that most forums I join, I don't read the rules, many people don't as they are typically the same. I think having to type in key words will greatly help with people actually reading the rules. If they don't want to type the key word, to bad you can't become a member. This way when they have to search for the key words, wether they read the entire thing or skim, they will at least have some grasp of the rules.

This condenser has 2 plugs and plugs to the distributor from the body harness (engine room per FSM). My fusible links have the maxi-fuse swap. Running 30 30 50 80. 80 is for the upgraded alternator. Everything I am running is per write up and what I was told to do.

Looks great. Get rid of some of those vacuum lines, 240sx TB, Maxi-Fuse, clean up the wiring so its not all over, maybe a tuck. Looks great already, just some things I think would make it look even more fantastic! Great start to a new project! I hope the new owner of your old baby really takes care of it.

Its seems like you are starting to get on track. If it helps, wikipedia isn't the best resource but it does have quite a bit of useful information on the S30's. I would look up Nissan S30 on wikipedia. It will really help you with the basics. You don't have to do any searching, most of it is right there. After you have the basics, I would call the guy and explain the situation. I would not pay asking price on a car, ever, unless it is really super nice and the guy seriously is firm (I jew down). Find every reason for the price to be lower. Seriously though, after you know the basics and get used to how this site runs you will learn so much its not even funny. Not only for a z but for regular cars. As for welding, I would recommend a class at a community college, they can be great, cheaper opportunities. Welding is an art form, its takes much time, effort, and practice, to become good at it. If you don't use it, you will lose it applies to the art of welding. I know from experience.

I don't care what anybody says anymore. I have 100% determined that the condenser has something to do with it. I do not have the condenser, but when the wires where the condenser plug in are plugged together, key in the on position, the ballast resistor glows red hot. I can also not get the - post on the coil to ground out. If I un plug the wires, I can ground out the negative post on the coil, but it will not make the injectors click, no matter how many times in a row I do it. I have spark at the plugs. I have fuel in the rail. It is obvious the injectors are not opening. I have a feeling the condenser is required.

I am fairly certain this car is totally jacked wiring wise. I do not know how. If I unplug the wire that is supposed to have the condenser in it I have no issue with smoke or glowing hot wires.

The registry says its blue.