ModernS30

Sounds good. The only reason why I posted the above on fuel and boost is because that is what I believe the PO stated it would make 800whp at. I am still excited to see what the outcome is.

WHOOP WHOOP! Let this baby shine, I really do hope it makes somewhere close to what it stated. 38 PSI on Q16? I wish you luck!

Yes, he has it for the 73 240z. I posted up even the colors you need to connect.

Subaru DOES NOT use half shafts on the R180. That right there already proves it to not be a Subaru differential. Why argue the point father on that?

Hmmm... Is the regulator the same as on the 1977 280z? I did the swap on my 280z. It is really simple. It will require the soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing. I would recommend delooming a majority of the harness to remove the extra wires running through it as well while cleaning up the rest of the harness. There is a write up on atlanticz, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html . If you have any questions as to what the right up means or such just send me a PM and I will be glad to help. EDIT: Looks like he has added the 73 wiring to the write up. (White w/ Red stripe to White w/ Black stripe, Solid White to Solid Yellow) Please look at the write up to clairify. This is what I got from the diagrams and pictures.

Not a bad idea. Maybe you could make one fit up in the top center of the hatch window?

Wow Phil. Hope you didn't hurt the head. More videos of the build huh?

Wow. What a huge difference. That is probably going to be a must. I really like it.

I don't really get where your coming from with the Nissan thing. Not trying to down on you, by all means, it is your car and I hope you do what you want to do, not what others tell you to. Just know that this site was started based upon swapping Small Block Chevy engines into 240/260/280z's. It has evolved but here we are all about inter-brand modification. Whatever make the performance better! If your looking for cheap 500RWHP then a SBC is one of the easiest ways to go. An RB is a great start for 500WHP. It also depends on how you are going to use this power. Obviously on the street and a few track days. Be a little more descriptive, different engines have different uses. Even one engine can be built a different way to have the power more usable in a different range. The overall goal is to build an engine with a flat torque curve, high, but flat. Depending on stroke and bore and other things, your power may be used in high RPM or low RPM. The idea behind the flat torque curve it to have the power in the Low AND high RPM.

I was more interested in the bottom ones, the 3 bar, I guess GT style? I thinking having the panel gives you at least a small part to help fabricate it to fit.

As well as ugly as hell! Who cares if it is Nissan or not! This is HybridZ after all. Plus, the idea here was the panel for mounting the lights is super easy to get a hold of. If you have the fabrication skills a tail light swap is going to take already. This should just make it easier.

Will those work for an S30? I thought it was only the 200zr mounts that worked. I bet this is an S130 thing only huh? We should open a new dicussion as to not thread jack. (sorry about that)

Hey guys, I have always been a fan of the older mustangs and their tail lights. Since there are all kinds of threads on tail light swaps I figured I would post up an idea of my own. How about the mustang tail lights? They make conversion panels for actual mustangs that could be adapted to a z I bet. They are also LED and can be had in different years, shelby or the 3 bar style. Obviously not a bolt on swap but no lights are. What do you guys think?

I saw this back when I had my first z. Now on my 3rd. Wish I could have something similar. Wouldn't do any other light swap. I saw one of these skylines in Japan a long time ago. Probably still sits in the same spot. It was all pimped out slammed status too.

Yea, I don't really care for it. I would rather have the truck the frame came from in the first place. I want a V6 4x4 hardbody, just not with a z on top of it.

Wiki isn't the only source and it isn't very reliable. I wouldn't know where to get such information.

just saying... You said to find what was missing. So I did.

PSSSSTTT, you don't have a fuel rail....

Good looking start there. I say keep the fender, it adds character. If you really know what you're doing (I mean REALLY know what you are doing). Where metal is stretched a light touch with a torch can contract the metal. It is an art form of sorts because there are so many obvious dangers. Good luck and have fun!

^^ very clean install. I wish I had done my fuel cell a little more professional.

Sigh. People don't care about the other cars you have built. If you would just put this on a dyno people would stop complaining. I thought you said you had already done the fixes to make it "dyno ready". Lets get a date to get it on the dyno and a video and some dyno graphs. I honestly want to see the power this thing can make. I also want to know what it would cost to build an L6 to make such numbers (600-800 at one time claimed capable of 1000WHP). A more detail parts list. Stroke, bore, piston specs, rod specs, crank specs, even block specs. Is the block sleeved? Is it lightened? Heat treated? What is done to a stock block to make it handle the abuse of the HP and the 38PSI of boost claimed that made the 800whp. Head studs? Are they englarged? Headgasket? What head work? Valve, cam, valve springs, retainers? What materials are these made of and to what specs? This is all useful information. Specs on the intake manifold, the injectors, the TB, the turbo, the turbo manifold, the waste gate, the intercoolers. We need all of these things to know what has been done to make this car cabable of making this calimed 600-800+ RWHP. I am not calling you a lier nor am I saying it is absolutly impossible to make such power with an L6. I am mearly saying, lets get something up to back this up. Burn out videos don't back up a cars power. Put the boost to 38psi and test this baby out.

Will typical open wheel (sprint midget bodies) we use very thin fiber glass. We have hoods that have survived a racer car flipping and quite a ride. They are thin and flexible. Throwing a door shell on top of one from a datsun didn't even harm it. Just flexed. Yet it is still stiff enough to keep from flapping in the wind.

If your looking to do an RB swap I would recommend aftermarket mounts. The 200zr mounts are hard to find and nissan does not make them anymore from what I understand. Same with the oil pan, but there are aftermarket parts to do the swap. As well as a really nice aluminum oil pan.

Would somebody just dyno the damn car? Make it 38 PSI like claimed running Q16. Tune it the best you can. If it makes the power great? If you wont do this? Then just drop the damn subject. I am tired of this crap polluting hybridz. In no way is a zillion threads arguing about the power claimed to be made by one zx going to help hybridz members. If it makes the power lets get details on how and why so it can be repeated. Like I said, other than that, you may as well not post about the damned car anymore.

R/T mount came in today. Still can't afford MS so I am kinda stuck. I need the polly mount for this R/T mount but I will box my fac. X member for now.