MYRON

I can under stand all the camber if he does alot of AutoX, but not for daily driving... If you have the mag, How about the 438hp Turbo/NOS injected Harley Davidson drag bike!

Fast Frog, Do you know Eric? His car is awesome! If you know how to contact him, why dont you try to lure him to this site. I am sure that some people would love to pick his brain! As for back issues here is the address and phone # Mcmullen Argus Publishing 1015 Placentia Ave. Fullerton Ca. 92831 714-213-1026... The write up is very brief and there are only 4 pictures (unfortunately)... You should see the FAT NASTY tires on the back of this car! Myron

If any of you guys get "Turbo & high tech Performance" magazine Dec. 1999 has a really nice readers rides car. It's a 70 240 with an imsa GT body kit 17"HRE wheels that look really good. It has a .40 over sbc, edelbrock heads and an ATI procharger.. It lives in San Diego County

Mine was installed straight up. I hear that most hot rodders like to set them at 6 degrees advanced....

Sounds good to me, I will re-jet my carb and powervalve and check the timing as well.... My brother is checking his finances to see if he can squeeze out the money for the carb...

Half throttle? Yeah right!!!!!.... It sounds like yours is running great. Are you getting any hesitation if you rap on it real quick? and what distributor are you using?... Is your vaccumme reading in gear or in park?... I have some axles coming in tommorrow and will be testing this weekend... With our engine combos being so close i think i will set mine up like you did and see what happens.... My brother may be interested in you carb stuff..... What was causing all you fuel pressure problems?? Myron

Mine are DartII with 2.05/1.60 215cc runner's ported to match the intake. Double springs (Competition Cams) rated up to .700 lift cam. I am also using crane gold roller rockers, split ratio 1.65 intake/1.6 exhaust.. I got a screaming deal on them with the intake..

I am using Dart Heads 2.05/1.60 with 215cc runners, they are small chamber, and they have been ported to match a Brodix HV1 pro bracket dual plane intake. My cam is solid roller 284/288 duration and .576/.567 lift. I am using 1.65 ratio rockers which brings the lift up to .609 on the intake side.. with a stock converter you can punch it and it takes off pretty hard, then when it hits 3000 it breaks the tires loose... best 0-60 time so far is 4.51 sec. I also did 1.79 60 foot at the track BUT it wasnt tuned properly and it broke the diff on that run....

Thanks for the props on the motor. If i can get it tuned properly i think it will be real scarry!.. Unfortunately I cannot draw a vaccume on it with it in gear with the axles busted! With it in park it is drawing a 10.5 vaccume. I just bought 3 different power valves and some more jets, but i will have to go find some axles before i go to tuning it!... I will be seeking more help when i get it driveable again.. Myron

John, You seem to have much more experience than i do messing with carbs.. My carb is a Holley HP4150 750 mechanical unit,no choke and it has an 850 base plate. I think it is supposed to flow something like 830 CFM.. I have Dart heads with 2.05/1.60 valves, 215cc runners and i think they are 64cc chamber. I am using a Brodix HV1 pro bracket dual plane intake that is ported to match the heads and also the plenum is ported as well I am using a solid roller camshaft with .567 lift on the intake & 288 duration. I am also using crane gold 1.65 ratio rockers which brings the lift up to i think about .609... This car should have way more power than I have been able to get out of it.. The power valve that i removed has the letter "d" and a "5" across from each other it also has a "3" and "9" across from each other.. where do you think that i should start over on the jetting? BTW: It used to pull like an ox up to 6500 rpm. Now it tapers off and lolly gags from 5-6000 rpm.... Myron

Actually you would be suprised how cheap you can buy fiberglass resin and matting material for. You can buy the hood from JC Whitney for 399, and rest assured they are making some money on the deal. Arizona Z car charges 279. but thay arent smart enough to get it packaged and shipped out the door unless they sell you 1000.00 in parts. It kinda sounds like a racket to me, but that is just my personal opinion.. Are you guys going to make a mold of an existing ready-made hood or are you going to make a hood on your own then make a mold of that hood? what about the factory hinge mechanism, are you going have the hinge points or will it be a hood pin/flush fastener

I am interested in a cowl hood. I am not happy with the monster that is sticking on top of the hood that I made. Myron

You must also consider what valve-train components and valve covers that you are using. I tried to use the short pump and mount the alternator on the passenger side just in front and above the valve cover. Wouldnt work with the tall valve covers. I had to use the spacers just like the ones that you are using...

If you are crafty, you can make one. I have seen one in a hi-po chevy magazine. The clamshell was made out of wood. and the rest of the parts you can buy from sears, harbor freight, or any other big tool house. myron

Can the ujoints in the axles be replaced? I didnt see any "c" clips holding what was left of mine in place....

I'm pretty happy with it. I think if i can get it tuned right I will be able to get it in the low 4's or even high 3's... It has a bad hesitation when you punch it, then it doesnt pull hard from 5-6k....

I got a 4.51 and then on the second test run BANG!! no more ujoints when i hit second gear! Myron

Stan, are you trying to do this process with the diff. in the car?... When I blew out my diff., they were real easy to pop out with the cover off. Like Morgan said just wedge a screwdriver behind the shaft and pry them out. I pryed on the stub axle shaft in between the axle and the shaft that holds the planetaries in place.. It came right apart... Myron

It may be the front of your diff hitting the bottom of the car when it shifts. Does it only do it when you shift?... Check the mount on the front of the diff. and also check the strap that goes over the top of the diff.

If you go with weld, make sure that you get the correct series. I have the draglight series 90 (i think). Mine are 16x8 with 4.5 offset... These rims are NOT suitable for auto cross. There is a series 91 draglite that is stronger because it has a solid core. Now i may be backwards on which series is which. The ones in the summit/jegs book with the * says for drag use only. The paperwork that came with mine said something to the effect of not using them for off road/autocross on a vehicle weighing 4800 lbs or more.. I am going off of memory here so dont hold me to it!! I have Yokohama z rated (very sticky) tires, there are series A520 and 205/55ZR16.... Myron

I have decided to take the axles to the guy who did my driveshaft and see if he can put me some heavy duty ujoints in it.. I do not want to go through the whole process of using used parts in it again, there is no telling how long they will last... Myron

Well, I finally shattered the ujoints on my car! I bought a g-tech pro and started to fine tune my car. After playing with the 0-60 times and adjusting the jetting and timing I trimmed 6/10ths of the time. On the last run, I launched then hit 2nd and all hell broke loose! My question is- Are the stub axles and ujoints the same in the r180 and r200? I have a 78 parts car that still has the axles and diff. (r-180) will it work???? Myron

The carpenter will be in Dallas for training at Nortel all next week. I plan on getting together with him and any other Z car NutZ in the Dallas area.... Myron

I'd love to take you, but the car is in Conroe... 217 miles due south! check reply in the non tech board

What tranny and speedo combo are you using? I am using the autometer and a turbo 350. I have a 3.54 gear and 25" tires. I have to get a 17/40 gear set for my tranny... I saw a chart in a Pontiac enthusiast magazine the other day that had about 5 different gear ratios and tire sizes with the 1:1 final drive....