Evan Purple240zt

GN... drooool. Scottie, your THE man. I never really said anything but I am VERY interested and read everything about the GN swap. I love it, domestic, and original!! IMO, very impressive. Nice job scottie. I think its an excellent swap. Evan

Dan. my brother goes to bradley and I have friends at eastern. I cannot remember which frends, but i know SOMEONE goes there Anyways, if you hit bradley let me know. I am NOT far from peoria at school. Where did you move from? Evan

Drew, i live near chicago but will volunteer to ship it to you if need be. Evan

The difference in pressure is pressure drop across your intercooler. Nothing you can really do about that. The POV is not the same thing as a BOV for your information. For all intensive purposes the POV is a safety valve incase your wastegate goes crazy or something. BOV just relieves boost pressure so the turbo impeller does not slow down as much between shifts. Smoke? Hrm maybe your fuel pressure is too high? Its time for you to get an air fuel gauge or something to monitor whats going on in your engine. Besides, if your running way too rich your losing HP. Evan

Dan, he is selling a one piece fiberglass front clip. Hood, fenders and flares. Its pretty cool, but shipping to IL would suck, and they are made in minnesota so the supplier is relatively close to us. Evan

Hey rossaroo how are ya buddy. I havent been online for awhile. I had a rear wheel cyl. in my 72' barf on me one time. Braking was still there, but let me assure you there was not much! I had to get the car home and spent alot of time downshifting. After that experience, im somewhat hesitant to go sans E-brake. I, also, live in a somewhat hilly area and feel WAY better about having a mechanical E-brake. This is a main reason i havent been tempted away from the rear drum. I have the toyo 4x4 setup. Its heavy, however still works reasonably well. Ross, im looking forward to seeing what the drawing board comes up with. I MAY be in the market for larger brakes next summer. Later dudes- Evan

Dan, i can put the icing on the cake. There was a KILLER V8 z for sale in peoria last year. I went and looked at it, solid body, 327 with auto four speed 1500 bucks. I almost bought it. I have a turbo z (of course) and go to Western. Are you in school? whats the deal! Glad to hear the fuzz didnt arrest you guys! Evan

Whoa, good tip norm! Thanks= Evan PS... scary never thouught of that!!

I cant BELIVE what a long thread this has created. It seems very confusing to me. I am going to retorque to 35 ft/lb and hope for the best. Evan

this sucks it must be 61ft/lb with moly lube cause thats what i used! lol Evan I nave not run the motor for more than like 3 minutes after the HG swap. Im going to fix my torque before i fire it again.

I heard 60 recently. The studs are a friggin joke. You think someone would know a good spec. 80? thats pretty high. IMO wouldnt reuse those studs if you go to put on a new head as you had asked. James. post what you find tomorrow. I really need to know so i can fix whatever ive done after work. I torqued to 60ft/lb with moly lube. Thanks guys, you rule- Evan PS how the hell are you supposed to use A bolt stretch gauge on a head stud? am i missing something here?

OH btw, why to studs torque so much better than a bolt? Evan

60 lb-ft is about as high as you should go with the ARP head studs. Actually, it's a little higher that they recommend. For an aluminum head, my ARP instructions say to torque to 35lb-ft if you use the ARP moly lubricant, and 55lb-ft if you use motor oil for the lubricant. Whoa scary scary stuff, i way overtorqued the head then. Man, i heard about 900 different torque values for the studs. It seems to be pretty common for the metal head gaskets to have oil/water sealing problems. Did you use any kind of sealer/coating on the gasket before you installed it? I know James uses the spray on copper coating, and doesn't seem to have any problems. I did NOT use any sealer, because i read not to use sealer (rather someone didnt use sealer, and had no problems). Also, after running the engine up to it's normal operating temp, it's a very good idea to let it cool back down (overnight) and retorque the head studs. Back each one off about 1/8 turn, and retorque. This usually helps the gasket to seal, as the expansion/contraction of the warm engine crushes the combustion chamber sealing ridges a bit. The sealing ridges around the combustion chambers is most likely what is keeping the oil/water passages from sealing properly, BTW. I usually retorque the head two to three times after installing a new gasket, just to be safe. Tim, assuming I didnt damage my studs when i bolted on the head, is it safe to retorque them to the proper specs? Its not even really a leak, it just looks wet. Maybe im not TOO screwed! Thanks tim!- Evan

I used 60ft lb for final torque. Seems to be leaking from the water jackets slightly. Someone mentioned 80ft lb. Help!!!! Evan

hey turbo boy! Do you have pictures? Custom manifold is a dream, but im still curious have you had any cracking, or deformity problems with it? Evan

If you need me to be a tie=breaker let me know. I am not in the situation to buy the LSD, cvs or anything like that. however, im sure ill be kicking my own arse for along time if i pass it up and miss my chance! Scottie, will i break U=joints in my car? Thanks= evan

Got most of the motor apart, removed valve cover and saw that the front of the gasket got pushed back, and was not even CLOSE to sealing. At least I know im fixing the right thing this time. Evan

Rich, use a good ratchet from sears and whack it HARD with a big rubber mallet. Its the impact from the hood! Works everytime, sometimes better than my crappy campbell housefeld impact does!!! (if the ratchet breaks get one new from sears ) Lifetime warranty is cool. Oh and definitely use a 1/2 inch drive on this. Evan

I think my impact should do the trick on the cam bolt nicely LOL. Fel pro? I used some gasket that came in the gasket kit. Remind me to kick my own ass for not waiting for three days for the HKS one to show up (thought it was gone forever). Anyways, also found that my exhaust manifold was leaking past the gasket. WTF. OH well, need to replace it anyways and nows a good time to find out about it! Stupid cheapass gaskets. I am SOO lookin forward to no more oil leakage (where will it come from next? lol). I was using bolts in the head to hold everything togehter. I have decided, after seeing the leaking gasket, to go buy some studs so i dont have to do this twice!!!! Corky bell says NOT to reuse head studs more than three times (and thats pushing it). Evan

Well guys, the exxon valdese is still peeing all over the place. Finally found the leak (for those who dont know, between the top of the front cover and the head). Well, just for grins, i tried to stick a feeler gauge in the crack to see how big it was. Man, it slid right in. Scary. WEll time to swap headgaskets to the HKS metal one. Question, using arp studs. What is the torque spec for the HKS headgasket. Surface prep? Spray copper crap? fill me in guys! Evan

That sucks tom. The only though i had was Taylor makes a spark plug wires that is covered in SS braid and has built in heat shields and stuff. that might work for ya. Just a thought= evan

Lone, everyone. I am NOT trying to cause a ruckuss thats for sure! I am totally curious as to how this all works though Lone, ill do a basic rundown on how much money it takes to hit 365hp or so in a turbocharged zcar. (to the best of my knowledge). Turbo-700 j/y motor rebuilt with forged lower end-2000 Intercooler/plumbing-600 WHOOPS, i guess the v8 is cheaper LOL. If you guys are talking that kinda money for a swap. It would be VERY economical, i also like the idea of avalible parts!! (too late for me LOL) Anyways, thats not the point. I think this would be a good thread to refer people too regarding the cost-effectiveness of the swaps. I have seen v8 swaps, and stuff like that. DO NOT BE OFFENDED.. but I think the V8 is too ordinary for my tastes. I have never driven a turbocharged datsun... EVER... so maybe thats where the curiosity is coming into play. Dont get me wrong, i like the v8 swap, but its one of those things where i work on my car to learn new wierd things. Thats why im so intrigued by the GN swap that scottie did. I wanna do a V8 swap or GN swap into my S10 BAD!!!! Anyways, im signing off before i manage to ruffle too many feathers!! Evan PS... the other reason i like turbo zx motor is to shutup 99% of the punk-ass import (motor) haters on the street!

Thanks guys! Extremely helpful stuff here. I put in a timing map using scotties info and the car seems to run very well. I have to finish the fuel curve now and i will feel safe putting the wastegate spring back in. I drove my car for 3 hours last night with no problems. Things are coming along nicely!!! Thanks again- Evan

"kick" as your ass falls from the pedistal. LOL j/k Anyways, thats the case with any motor as far as selling your left nut for a transmission. However, i really want to know a price on the swap. Ill show you my price if you show me yours LOL Thanks for the reply, thought i had a flame comin from that one! Later dude= Evan PS... i AM a chevy guy too I drive an S10 4cyl and its friggin INDESTRUCTABLE!!! I drive it like i drive my z LOL

Whoa, too dang simple! thanks scottie. However i have a 3bar.. does that matter? Evan