Evan Purple240zt

. for the same money you put into just the motor on an l-series, you can swap to v8 power and outperform not only any stock or modified L-series Z(with the exception of a couple), Ashe, keep in mind. Regardless of what choice you make. Its not cheap. I built an L28t, and honestly, many v8 zcars dont even begin to scare me. Its funny around here because it seems that the hp levels start around 275 and go up! We are not a bunch of purists, we are speedfreaks!!! lol Anyway, there are fast L28t zcars. Fairlady, there are more than a couple of fast l28t cars. Regardless, you can go fast with a L motor or go fast with a V8. Its your bag baby, grab it and run with it. Youll never look back (unless you trip on something and wonder what the hell it was). I am truely curious. If i wanted a 365 rwhp V8 zcar. How much money would the drivetrane cost including a five speed of sorts. I have heard that they are cheaper, but never really heard a number on the specs. Oh, and this would be an carbed V8 of course. I guess, what im gettin at is WELCOME!!! Evan

Hey guys, I am setting my base programming for timing curves and fuel curves. Tuning fuel is no problem, however, i would like to know what timing curve is reccomended by you guys (something to start with). Let me know exactly what you need to help, and ill provide the information Thanks guys= evan PS... i can set timing retard per boost pressure. How do i know how much, and if i need to retard timing. At this point, i will be running 7psi or so with 420cc injectors.

Well, went to the gas station tonight to put on about four miles. Well, my "fanbelt" was squealing, i didnt think much of it until i smelled burning rubber. I KNEW it was the motor eating the belt (aparently, the alternator isnt lined up perfectly with the crank pulley and water pump). Well, i was at the gas station. No turnin back now. Started driving home and all the sudden the belt squeal stopped. S$%T, i knew the belt was gone. Well, the water temp in the head hit 240degrees and i shut it off. Coasted home down my street and into the garage. I think everythings okay, water temps dropped very fast when i spun the water pump with a drill and left the fans on. narrowly avoided BIG mistake!!! Evan PS... it runs like a friggin banshe!

I did the cut and weld thing. Damn is taht time consuming. Takes another couple hours of grinding down the welds after your done (if your anal like me). Drax, its time to show some finished pics of my car. The engine compartment looks badass! Evan PS.... no scanner though. I may go hitup my neighbor

Tim, my point was that just hooking up the breather hose straight into the intake would be a bandaid fix, because i would then be sucking air right through the front. I want to do a setup like yours, but dont have the time or money right now. Probally soon though What do you suggest for sealent? I dont think its an option because nothing sticks to oily metal LOL. Thanks- evan PS.. even WITH the PCV setup hooked up im spraying a bit of oil through the front. I dont get it. How does this happen? I cant belive the crankcase pressure gets that high!!

Yes, the main breather is filtered of course. The leak in the front is SMALL, and the amount of unfiltered air drawn in woould be very insignifgant I think. Thanks terry, and ron. Evan

yes, there is. However, i will be sucking air right through the leak in the gasket. Honestly, will this cause any problems? If not, ill just hook up the pcv and look the other way! evan

Hey guys,heres the deal. Found the oil leak. Its leaking between the top of the front cover and the head. I dont have any breather hoses hooked up, so there is no vaccum in the crankcase. It only really starts leaking when the engine is being revved. I assume this is NOT normal, and i need to switch headgaskets. Not what im lookin to do. Are the ARP head studs re=useable? I only have about 20 miles on the motor and CANT afford to replace them. I am afraid to keep tightening the bolts in the front cover, id really be SOL if they stripped out the holes!!!! Anyway, i guess if there was a hose hooked up to the intake it wouldnt leak. But wouldnt this be more of a bandaid fix??? Help me choose the right path guys, i gotta act on this like asap! Thanks= Evan PS.. i did figure out the pinout on the delco alternator and it works great!

That system produces 6 psi on my buddies car under boost. Now my question to you is this... where is your boost gauge hooked up? the intake im assuming. I have NO clue why your not seeing more boost, are you sure your turbo is getting adequate oil supply to it? Evan

Hey guys, im using a cs130 alternator on my z. My question is this. The plug that goes into the socket on the alternator has three wires coming out. However, the alternator itself has four prongs that should connect into something. i wonder if one is not used or what. Help me on the pinout of the cs130 alternator. Common on older vettes i was told! Thanks- Evan

Ahh the BAE. My buddy over here has the bae kit. Kinda cool. The turbo usually wont spin at idle. Now my question is, can you hear anything coming out of the blowoff/popoff valve? This is very hard to diagnose because its such a simple system. Simple system must equal simple fix right? lol.. I dont know what your problem is, but if you need me too i can look at my buddies car. Evan

The muffler is NOT the oval shaped one. i may end up using an oval muffler sooner then later. Its pretty loud. Ill see how long i can stand it. Ideally, if there were space (of course not) I would place another race magnum right after the DP to dump some resonance. Works great with my n/a setup. Dual 2" equates to roughly a 2.5" pipe if i remember correctly. That should be perfectly fine. Scottie, i made a balls out run with my buddy to get a borg warner T5 from grand rapids. Drove there, turned around and drove straight home. A friggin duck flew into my windsheild at like 11pm! lol Evan

Well scottie... Honestly dude, if you are losing horsepower. Who cares. I did a full 3" dp all the way back to a dynomax race magnum. The resonance in the car is ungodly. If you like the sound, dont change it. My exhaust is loud enough where im almost irritated by it Anyway, sounds like a winner to me! Just make sure your not chokin the motor THAT bad. What size pipes are in twice pipes? Evan

Dude, my wastegate is blocked open so im not producing any boost (that my gauge is showing, it doesnt show vacum, just 2+ PSI of boost) Its easy enough to put what ive taken apart back together and run it around the block to check for the valdeze action. I may just try that. The spray actiion is actually from it getting on the belts and flingin around the engine compartment, im pretty sure. thanks- Evan PS.. im tryin to get the base fuel maps setup before i consider boost.

Well, i pulled out my intercooler plumbing, and removed my distributor tonight in an effort to undo the mess under the hood. Looking at the underside of the hood, the oil spray is in a perfect line between the front cover and the radiator. I am not totally sure whats leaking now. I cleaned off the front pulley and ran the engine to check for leaks. I cant seem to isolate the leak to the front seal. In theory, it should be oily right under the seal. Well, its not (that i can see). Im thinking its a combination of my valve cover leaking (discovered that tonight). And the fact that my distributor only had one bolt in it. It seemed pretty oily under the distributor mount. Is there enough pressure to actually spray oil out of that small gap? It seems logical now that im looking at the mess. The oil leak is really not there at idle. I can clean out everything underneath and let it idle all day with no leaks. It only leaks when im driving the car. Wnen i say leak, i mean leak. You can see a trail of oil where I have been. Then when you stop it dumps an undetirmined amount onto the driveway, then stops leaking. SOO.. where im goig with this is the fact that it does not leak at idle, or overnight. It leaks during driving, and when the engine has just been run. Thanks for the help guys, im just hoping to fix the leak without taking apart everything again. Evan

BTW.. i was getting blowby from the crankcase and im wondering if its not due to the fact that i had too much oil. Foaming of oil etc. oh yeah, and she was leaking and blowin by with no intercooler plumbing on the motor. Evan

I did use the straight 30wt oil in my motor for breaking purposes. James, thanks for the advice. Its nice to know that driving it somewhat normally isnt going to destroy anything! I put my first 15 miles on today, and besides the oil leak, everything is working wonderfully! Evan

Okay, i dumped out some oil to get it down to the happy level. I have no idea wether its still leaking or not, its 12am and my exuahst guy finished my car at 1130... However, IF it still leaks its definitly the seal behind the front pulley. Easy fix Thanks for letting me vent guys!- Evan PS... anyone else think that 3" exhaust is pretty droney?

Okay guys, im rollin in style now. Now what i need to know is how to go about breakin? Should i drive it for 500 or so miles with no boost? I can just leave the wastegate wide open. Where should i keep the revs? below X Rpm or what? fill me in guys Thanks- Evan

Dudes, i think i found my problemo here. How much oil does a zxt motor take? I think it may be overfull. I checked the dipstick, and think thats the problem now that im looking at it. It is definitely overfull, can this cause damage? Let me know asap, im driving this thing to work tomorrow, then to get exhaust put on. I guess, i dont mean blowby, its coming out of the crankcase ventalation hoses. I dont have any of them hooked up to the intake (yet). This may be normal for all i know, i never ran without them before. There is NO smoke whatsover in the exhaust. Thanks gents- evan PS.. i was running with just the cast DP elbow on it temporarily. That exhaust was literally FRYING my steering coupler, i whipped up a quick heat shield for temporary steup. Just something to beweare of for the new dudes

DAMMIT.... somethings leaking and making a BIG mess in my engine compartment. It appears to be either, oil pump (unlikely imo), or front cover. God i dont want to take this thing apart again to replace the front cover gaskets. Jeez, i used gasket sealer and toruque wrenches and still she leaks. that sucks. Besides that, i seem to have some blowby under accelleration. Is this normal? function of rings seating? I also got my rotor phasing right, and the engine purrs like a kitty cat. - Evan PS.. I guess if i suck it up and redo the front cover gasket its not the worst thing that could happen eh? (I have the gaskets)

Thanks guys. Scottie, sorry but i dont have time to wait for a flange. I need to make one tomorrow to have my exhaust installed. Emissions hell will decend upon me if i dont get it tested by saturday! Evan

Guys, looks like im on my own for a DP flange. no biggie, just need to know how thick to make it? AKA, how thin can i make it? LOL Thanks guys- Evan

quote: Originally posted by cborden: I don't know what the professional recommendation is but I spray painted mine years ago and the finish is still in good shape. I had some old chromed, dented Z bumpers and decided to paint them black. So, I sanded them with a medium paper, put on 2 or 3 coats of primer (out of a can) and then did the same with a black topcoat. The car sits in the weather and the paint is still there to this day. That was my experience but I am sure that a chrome-free surface would adhere paint much better. Craig Same here dude

Tim, thats what is wierd man. Its not threaded at all. The inlet for the oil looks as if it would accept a "flange" much like the oil outlet, only smaller. Does that make any sense to you at all? Heres the part that isnt making sense to me. From the gasket set I had purchased for the zxt motor, i SHOULD have an oil line with the flange type affair that i need. However, its a banjo bolt instead. What I am wondering is if there is a two piece fitting on the end of the oil line ie.. banjo bolt that threads into the flange type affair. Dont know if this makes any sense to anyone here... because I need to find the corrct flange to make my oil line, or create one all by myself out of a plate O steel Thanks- evan