Dat73z

A minor point on the larger EPS systems as this information wasn't readily out there when I was researching. For the Versa unit, I clearanced the brake pedal then plated it back in for reinforcement to achieve the OE pedal position as a starting point, otherwise the pedal would need to be adjusted downwards to clear the EPS gearbox assembly. This allows a full range of adjustment and is not necessarily a negative as ime getting the stock s30 pedals closer helps me in heel toe but def something to consider in EPS options if you have a preference for pedal position.

Yes the regular kit will fit under RKRs 15x8 +0. Here is a pic from like 10yrs ago when I was still daily driving my Z, you can see the T3 big wilwoods peeking out under the rkrs I took a bunch of pictures and measurements with rkrs and watanabe/several other wheels a couple yrs back when I decided to go ZCG due to the limitations on the t3 kit. I also ran a 1" wilwood MC but would not recommend it today as the unit leaked internally and externally so I went new OEM. Will DM you those later when I get some time to dig them up.

The regular t3 wilwood BBK is really nice, I ran it for many years and miles under a set of 15x8 Rota RKRs which were one of the only 15s I found that would fit that setup. The watanabe 15s don't fit due to the inner barrel design. The ebrake setup where the cable pinched the rear brake pads was not the best ime and I always kept the car in gear when parked as it would sometimes roll. I almost forgot about the t3 sale. Do the hubs you got have the same offset as the OE? Nice build progress 😁

When I was running a small turbo on a big stroker, I was basically making boost right off idle and 10-15psi by like 3000 rpms. If I read correctly, you're only going for 1-3psi of boost? You will easily be making that off idle, certainly below 4000 rpms.

I tried it both ways and cutting the hole after is definitely the way to go. I used a copper heat sink as well and got some very minor warpage which I was able to lightly knock down with a sanding block. Definitely not my best work but it'll never be seen.

Yes I also cut the notch and modified the brake pedal slightly for my preferred position + and plated in with 1/8 steel for reinforcement. I'd be curious about steering delay as @calZ mentioned. Self centering/wandering I wonder what alignment settings people were running. I've always been pushing a few degrees more positive caster since switching over to 225 (soon 245) RComps, enough where my front apron corners are trimmed a bit.

Fabricating and tig welding several AL pieces this weekend. Basically thin wall 0.080" intercooler/charge piping to thin AL maybe 14 gauge. To minimize warping would you cut the hole before or after welding? Don't need full penetration so I'll use whatever thinest filler wire I have on hand and control the heat the best I can.

Still waiting for parts/materials and I've been doing a bunch of fabrication work in the background. I was chatting with my machinist the other day and it's amazing how supply chain for many parts and materials still hasn't caught up to pre-covid times. One of my objectives for the build was to run AC and Power Steering, so when putting together the first iteration of the build a few years back I measured and intentionally fabricated around future component locations.

Fuel system is set up for carbs, as recommended by Aeromotive for carb forced induction applications. The setup is for rock solid base pressure but also maximum volume which is very important in high fueling demand FI carb applications. I haven't been posting much as life has been crazy busy but the build goes on in the background. After the trans swap I determined I could no longer use my fuel line routing so I've upsized to SS hardline -8 feed and -10 return while also upsizing the regulator and fuel pump. The fuel pump is a walbro 450LPH, which I'm planning to run single but could also go double mounted inside an in-tank surge tank with an integral Pierburg lift pump. The fittings are full flow so there is minimal restriction in the feed/return. New manifold, turbo, and other hot parts went out for shielding last month so hopefully those come back soon.

Following on my previous post, I had my steering column modified by TruPig Motorsports which utilizes a Nissan Versa EPS unit. With the design of this retrofit, the EPS while large is able to just fit in with the motor and control module clocked up running a cable throttle and Vintage Air Gen II Mini HVAC unit. I think it would still be possible to fit a DBW actuator back there as well. Hope this helps someone in the future, it was impossible for me to find any information on fitting an OE EPS unit (not smaller ATV/Powersports units), DBW and AC behind the s30 dash other than people mentioning it is too tight/will not fit.

Bumping the power steering thread. I'm curious if anyone has adapted the Prius EPS to the s30 chassis? It seems the Prius unit, being plug and play with it's standalone EPS ECU is desirable and easily adaptable to just about any vehicle. Also much more economical at ~$100 for a complete Prius junkyard unit versus the $1500+ for the aftermarket adaptations available today. Edit: Adding a link here for some of the known torque sensing EPS from cars found in junkyards today that could be good and economical candidates: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

It's been a busy year but I've been making progress on the build. Since the last update I've installed a CD00A transmission, had a AL driveshaft made up, performed some retrofit modifications on the SK50s for boost/fuel control + swapped venturis, and in the final stages of the cnc intake manifold. This winter I'd like to wrap up fabrication on some new stainless fuel lines and the exhaust. If I can swing a trip down to SoCal I'll drop off the new exhaust manifold, turbo, and downpipe for inconel shielding.

Had to take a break for a couple of months and go on a bunch of family trips. A few left to go but long lead-time parts are trickling back in. Had my vintage SK50s fully restored by Kyusha House as the older castings are better suited for the surge tank, they look fantastic. Once I get back in from traveling will see what it'll take to get the custom intake manifold cnc'd.

I had a couple of hrs this morning so I stripped out the old turbo setup and started mocking up the new Vband G series and wastegate. There is a lot of fabrication work ahead and it starts with mocking up all the hard parts in the car.

Life got busy but I recently started working on the build again. Since the last post I've been cleaning out the garage and figuring out where things are at. All of the new suspension is on and I pulled the midpipe to begin refabrication around the new turbo setup. I also sent the vintage SK 50s out for restoration and started assembling my wheels with the 245s for more traction.

It has been a ridiculous month and I had to take a break from the project due to working insane hours and balancing family time, but I'm back at it again. Since the last update I wrapped up the bulk of the suspension and brakes upgrades and started tearing back into the turbo aspects. I need to fully mock up the new manifolds and turbo setups into the car before we continue with the new cnc intake manifold setup so I've started tearing everything back out again. This will also allow me to refabricate my midpipe to downpipe connection.

After disassembly it was apparent what had happened. The dust shield lip somehow caught on a couple of areas of the KW powdercoated strut assembly. After some beating with a hammer things looks better. I'll ensure there are no raised edges on the strut assembly or dust shield, throw a coat of paint on everything, and re-reassemble. Hopefully I can get it back together this next week or so, the general mechanical work is easy but time consuming. I'd like to get back into some welding and fab work.

This evening I had an hr so I packed and pressed the rear end together with new OE bearings and seals. Unfortunately, one of the stubs was extremely difficult to turn when pressed on. This is a new one on me, apparently the dust shield was binding with the strut assembly. Fortunately I have a couple spare dust shields but I'll try and lightly bend this one out first before pulling all the studs out and starting over.

I thought I'd get a break but apparently I'm working again this weekend. Still planning to squeeze some time into the Z between family and other obligations. I've been working with an exceptionally talented designer on the intake manifold. The 2nd print came in so I did some more mockup. I think this weekend the objective will be to get the rear end back together as the parts I painted have cured for a week or so now. It'll be nice to get the car back on the ground or at least on dollys

Just a quick update I got the steering coupler re-painted. Looking it over, the ujoint seems ok but maybe I should replace it at some point since everything else is new (it's the later staked type). I'm going to focus on cleaning up my workspace as it would probably be good to let things continue curing out, but I think it's mostly just reassembly from here.

Likewise I'm not pushing it 11/10 on the streets in my typical driving but I am considering maybe putting a OE ZG or early 240 rear bar on but we'll see once I get the new setup dialed in. I actually sold 2 former track toys this past few months so maybe the Z will get some more use if I don't end up getting another fun/daily car...getting tired of having multiple projects. That's some good points on the trans mount. I couldn't find my other OE mount but I seem to recall I dinged my t3 crossmember due to trans movement under high load/boost but otherwise it felt like a good match with the milkfab poly engine mounts which basically cut the engine rotation down to 0 and there was minimal cabin noise. The poly trans mount is too harsh and there was basically 0 movement of anything with a lot of gear noise being transmitted to the cabin. Maybe I'll try filling the OE trans mount with window weld or find some lower durometer inserts for the poly trans mount. It would be interesting to set up a camera and see what direction(s) things are moving.

More parts trickling in. I'm going back to the OE trans mount for now. For some reason I seem to recall the moulding was a lot beefier, where this new OE mount the moulding seems super thin. I'll need to do some digging to find the OE mount I was using before and compare.

Finally caught up on measurements. This AM I got my rear stubs painted in under the solar eclipse...I was wondering why it was so dark out 😂 I think I'll let these cure out over the week while I address other brake system items.

@Zetsaz it's the OE front bar powdercoated with poly bushings and endlinks. I had considered bigger sway bars but they seemed more trouble than they're worth. I made AL spacers for a rear bar in the past which could likely help in your situation, just get some flat plate and drill some holes

Just a quick update got the rear 280z stub axles stripped tonight and ready for paint tomorrow. More parts trickling in this next week but making steady progress, trying to do 1 thing per day again against the daily schedule. Some house renovation projects as well in the background and maybe the garage next, remove all the cabinets from the 60s and redo the floors and walls. I'd love to open the ceiling and install a lift.