Stealth-Z

I use an old x-ray machine hand controller "Dead Man Switch" instead of the screwdriver. It has a spade for the solinoid and a large aligator clip for the battery post. Nice having a 6 ft cord to walk around the car with.

Now you know why I measure myself. Look at Wiseco's catalog. Their Specs for RB26 head is 70cc's and the RB25 head is at 66.5cc's. http://www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Catalogs/SC07/NissanSubaruToyota.pdf My two RB26 heads measured out at 64cc's with light oil. Before the cutting, I am going to measure and do the math the old fashion way. The fancy computer calculator's all seem to be different.

These pistons are custom not off the shelf. No one to my knowledge has these specs with off the shelf items. Wiseco figures the pistons sit in the bore by about 0.020, RB26 head measures of 66cc's, and a stock head gasket at about 0.059. Once you start modifying those numbers, you will start to see different compression ratio's. These pistons will actually give me to high of a CR. Wiseco informed me it is okay to shave part of the dome off.

My understanding of that sticker means the belt was changed at 100,000 kilometers or about 60,000 miles. I had the timing belt on my former 300ZXtt changed at the Nissan dealership a few years ago. They put a sticker on the door jamb indicating it was replaced at 70,500 miles. Your motor may have 60,000 miles plus on it. Just my opinion on that though.

The one I received from up22 a few years ago looks better. It is still sitting in the spare room. Sorry to see thier quality control diminish.

The pistons he has have a 16cc dome. I have another set identical to them except they are 0.020 oversized.

You have been doing some homework! Mine will be using the Dayco 94407.

Here is a link to classiczcars photo gallery. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/index.php You might have to register and be logged in to view them. RB30 SOHC and DOHC's fit with the cross over intake without interference problems. The Castlemaine mounts should work with no problems.

That is an NA motor. You can see another set of pipes next to the TT's. Mine had Blitz blow off valves. Look closely at the fuze block.

Tensioners are the same as the Z31 V6's. I have 2 new ones and compared them to the RB20 and RB26's. Same dimensions. Coild springs are identical as well. Bought them new as well. Tensioner stud was the same on all my RB blocks. My build has been a few years in the making. Most of the headache has been with the pistons. I could have had it up and running a long time ago. But, I wanted nice precise specifications. Plus it is a good learning experience. Wait till you start getting into the RB26 head rebuild. Chances are it will need exhaust valve guide replacement. Then there is the adjustment shims. Found out they are simular to the way older Jaguar heads are setup. Very time consuming process to get the proper clearance.

For a calculating program I am using this one from Wiseco. http://www.wiseco.com/Calculators/HelpfulCalculators.xls Here are the numbers I entered. Bore Diameter 3.406 Inches Engine Stroke 3.346 Inches Head Volume 64.00 Cubic cm's Gasket Bore Diameter 3.410 Inches Compressed Gasket Thickness 0.0590 Inches Deck Clearance 0.0000 Inches Piston Effective Dome Volume -13.00 Cubic cm's You can start juggling numbers around to see what you get. You could deck the block to have the pistons run out of the bore by say -0.01 Inches. Use a 1.2mm (0.047 Inch) head gasket. Shave some off the head to get it down to 60cc chamber volume and you end up with about 10.5:1. You would have to measure valve clearance to see if flycuts would be necessary. Then you change parameters again by removing material off the pistons. The resulting quench value would be .037. Sounds good having it that close but you have to consider piston rock motion. Higher RPM's along with different tolerance stretching and deformation could run the piston right into the head. Isn't striving for precision great? Using the 16cc dome parameter on my new pistons would yield a CR of 11.08:1. I have learned alot from the guy that rebuilt my turbos. If Wiseco had not come through, him and I were going to work up a custom set of JE's. There is a lot of different design factors to take into consideration. There is no such thing as an off the shelf precise compression ratio piston.

The pistons I have coming are custom jobs. Here is a thread where I talked about the first measurements. Wiseco seems to have admitted there was a mistake in their calculations and the order spec. They have since remanufactured them to the parameters I mentioned above earlier. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119593&highlight=rb30 My block has a 4 thousands difference between the front and back. Pistons with a compression height of 1.260 sit in the front of my block by 18 thousands and 22 thousands in the back no. 6 cylinder. It will require a minor adjustment on the deck level. Once the pistons arrive I can make more detailed measurements. I am assuming Wiseco figured a -0.020 deck clearance along with the RB26 head measuring 66cc's and the stock head gasket of 0.059 to get a proper CR of 9.1:1. Arias has more accurate measuring devices than I do about the chamber cc of the RB26 head. A stock untouched head may be 64.5cc's. Once you start grinding valves and surfacing the head, those parameters change fast. Both RB26 heads I have came in at 64cc of light oil. This was after they had been hot tanked and pressure tested.

What program are you using for a compression calculator? I have a set of Wiseco's on the way that have a 16cc dome with a compression height of 1.260. If I deck the block to get a zero deck clearance and use my RB26 head chamber measurement of 64cc's along with a head gasket thickness of .059, I come up with a CR of 9.79:1. .059 is what a stock RB2x head gasket measures out at. This is to high for my build. Once the pistons arrive, I will start evaluating modifications to the pistons to get the CR down to between 8.5 to 9.0. My research still continues on how close of a quench value to persue. Getting between .040 ~ .060 seems to be ideal. Getting the pistons close to the head brings up possible issues with the valve clearances. That would mean machining flycuts into the pistons. The stock cams should not be a problem but I want to measure first. Future plans would be using cams with about a 9.15mm lift and a duration of 260. I have an HKS exhaust cam to do some peliminary measurements with. It is 9.6mm lift with a 264 duration. A set of Nismo R32 turbo's will be used on the motor. I had them rebuilt so they will last for a while. The plan is to run a max of 16psi on them. They are .60 /.64.

Guess I will meet you in hell one day as well! I see the 2+2's as beeing more sleek in design. This is the one mine is being modeled after.

What other specs are you after? I am getting good with measuring piston / Compression Ratio combinations. My goal is to get a tight quench to start with. My new pistons should be arriving soon so I can start remeasuring.

I have one sitting in the spare room. Quality is not bad for the price. It does need some finishing work. It is not a bolt-on replacement without more re-enforcement. Definetly a light piece though.

It is about a 2 hour drive for me to get to thier house in South San Francisco. After seeing how it is done, I have these grand ideas of making door skins for mine as well. Time is keeping me from learning more.

Yes

Read the description on these door panels after the asking price shock wears off. Not for us 2+2 guys though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-Interior-Door-Panels-Black-Rare-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQihZ012QQitemZ220117378847QQrdZ1

I would love to go back to Okinawa. In a civilian capacity instead of military though.

You may have to sculpture your own flares. I am starting to experiment with fiberglass. My mentor is one of the most detailed oriented I have ever met. Watching him work is amazing. http://www.zonc.org/zoom_06_02.html

Hi guys, I keep forgeting there is a 2+2 section. Anyone have an interest in some NOS white door panels? My Z has power windows and I am going with black interior. These are to nice for me to take out the fuzzies or dye black. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-280Z-2-2-Door-Panels_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33696QQihZ017QQitemZ270125145717QQrdZ1

The drivers side floor board in the first photos is with the tar mat removed by the previous owner. He started scraping off undercoating all over it. We took a wire wheel to common rust prone areas. There was a small pin hole in the passenger side dog leg. I took a grinder and cut out about the size of a quarter to look. That was the largest area of rust. The shell is very solid. We will be parting it out. The shell is free to anyone that wants it. We have a bill of sale from the owner. It was last registered in California in 1995.

We have a bill of sale from the previous owner. It was last registered in 1995. Getting a CA title would not be a problem. Tomorrow we will do more indepth checking of the body. We are going to jack it up and poke around.

Hi guys, I have a slight dilema here. A few hours ago my friend and I bought a 1970 240Z parts car. The VIN is in the 12,000's and it has an automatic with a SU carbed L28. The dilema is about cutting it up. Check out these photos. http://www.fairladyzg.com/images/240z/index.htm This has no major rust. There is not even minor rust we have found. Floor pans are intact along with the battery tray. The primer is showing surface rust. Would anyone be interested in the body? It would be a shame to cut it up. By the way, the Blue 1975 280Z, funny thing there. I jacked it up and the rubber insulators were rotted away. Not something I have seen happen before. Ultimately I need to stop looking at criagslist!