Stealth-Z

Welcome to the RB part buying Blues. Once you think you found a good source and price, another comes up. B&E Customs was $300.00 for the RB26 gasket set several months ago. As more business's import these parts I am sure good ole American competition will drive the prices down some. You can look forward to sending lots of email. But do not count on receiving many replies. Same goes for telephone calls. If you do a valve job, wait till you try to source the RB26 lifter shims. That one is interesting in itself. Anyway, I feel your pain and frustration!

Excellent setup. Your team did a great job. My only question is, how did you manage to keep it under wraps from everyone at HybridZ so long?

Here is some video of StockyMcStock's Super/Turbo charged RB30. Sounds impressive!

Not many are doing the RB30 conversions here in the U.S. You will find more information on Skylines Australia, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15420 I am still in the assembly phase of mine. The only additional machine work required for the RB26 head on the RB30 is tapping out the block for larger diameter head bolts. One minor thing, you want to block off the rear oil feed to the cylinder head on the block as well. Cubes made a PDF file about the RB30 conversion. http://www.geocities.com/rb30_twincam/

Definetly be different here in the U.S. With the current exchange rate it figures to be a little less than $1500.00.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15420&st=4460 Scroll down to post 4463 Since I am building an RB30/26DETT hybrid, I check Skylines Australia's RB30 thread all the time. StockyMcStock has been mentioning doing a Supercharger/Turbo setup for a while. Looks like he has done it. Supercharger kits have been available from Castlemaine Rod shop in Australia for a long time. http://www.rodshop.com.au/superchargerb30.htm

After not hearing anything about the R230 conversion parts here, I have signed up with the Brute LSD group buy. But I will still be needing the CV companion flange adapters for the 81-83 CV axles. I have a few sets of them from S130 Turbo Z's.

Here is a video on camel toes you may want to look for. http://www.fairladyzg.com/img/CamelToe_2_.wmv **Warning, may not be suitable for all ages***

Now you can have an authentic Mongolian BBQ.

You have the good crank.

I can say for sure the stock RB26 twin turbo setup, (turbo's, down pipes, manifolds, oil lines, heatshields and rubber hoses), has a shipping weight of 76LBS. So there is an extra bit of weight over the standard L28 on the exhaust side. DHL dropped off the box for me a few days ago and that was the shipping weight

In all the posts I did not notice anyone mention checking the grounds. I had the same problem mentioned in the first post, turned out to be a grounding problem with the relays under the passenger side dash. You can check to see of the relays are grounded by touching a 12V test light to the metal case. It is best to hook up the negative ground of the light to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition on and probe around. If the light comes on, you have a bad ground. Plus you will hear the realy click because the test light will complete the circuit.

I remember asking AZC if they made a pan for the RB motors several years ago. While not specificaly for the RB26, I received the same answer about not being in much demand. Jamie T. was exploring the posibility of custom cast pans for the RB26 a few months ago. I sent him a gutted cast pan for a template. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111588

Count me in if this is the setup you are talking about. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=57 I have a two sets of flanges ready to go. With so many other things to finish on my Z, this upgrade has been on the back burner for me. But a group buy is incentive for me to get the parts sooner.

http://www.vildinimotorsport.com/ Beautiful Z. I saw it at the Classic Japanese Car Show in Long Beach last Saturday. Vildini Motorsports did the work on it. Pictures do not show the true excellent craftsmanship these guys do.

Congrats on getting your swap up and going so quickly. Mine would have been together and running if I had stuck to the original RB20 plan. I agree the RB20DET / RB25DE swap can be done with relative ease. All it takes is a little enginuity and common car sense. Unfortunetly I am suffering from the "As long as its apart, why not do this?" syndrome.

Cascar Machine Shop. http://www.cascarmachine.com/ They are on 47th Ave. The RB motors sit at a tilt just like the L series do. As for tilting more to the left, I remember reading a thread a while back about putting some spacers in to do it.

Instead of creating a new thread, might as well use this one I created a while ago. My RB30 is still in the machine shop being balanced. So I got tired of not being able to do anything with the mount situation. Below are photos of the Castlemaine Rod Shops motor mounts using a RB20 block mated to the RB25 trans. The transmission shifter location is right on target. Still need to fabricate some new "Ears" using the original Z trans mount. I had to cut out the original factory setup.

Brad D was selling his a few months ago. Do not know if he sold it or not. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111538 Beautiful Z. And in Canada to...

s0lidllama, Enjoy your time there. Many think of it as the Rock and cannot wait to leave. My tour was originally for 18 months, I extented my time there. Saturday nights at the A&W's seemed like right out of the 60's & 70's cruising era. At least there you do not have to worry about someone pulling a gun on you over stupid stuff. slownrusty, Street racing was fun and intense there. An adrenaline rush different than a 1/4 mile track. But people did get killed at it then to. For some reason it did not make headline news like it does here in the U.S. What keeps my street racing habitions down is the thought of someone making a right turn in front of me. Bad enough I am doing the speed limit when they do it. Not a pretty site when you are doing over a 100. It's like many people do not have depth perception.

There was another place I used to race. It was on a separate island. There was a long bridge going to it. I think a refinery was next to the road? All I remember was it was one heck of a long straitaway. I remember some hot Familias with rotary's and those 2000cc DOHC high compression Corolla's. I never had any problems with the JP's. It was always the Marine MP's harrasing me about wheels being a half inch to wide on my Celica GTV or doing burnouts in the Firebird off base near Camp Hansen. I almost hit the MP when he jumped in front of me with his hand out. Sorry s0lidllama, seems we have kind of got off subject on your thread...

I can not take credit for that Z being mine. It was my friend Don's. I always liked the look of how he built it up. Unfortunetly I no longer have photos of the 73 Z I brought back. It had triple Solex's on it as well. Do you remember seeing this there? It got me into a lot of trouble while I was there.

Your 2+2 is a near exact match to what I am building now! Right down to the G-Nose, flares, tail lights and rear window louvers. Time is not on my side with rebuilding mine. All the parts are there. The motor is at the machine shop now being balanced. Does not do me any good considering the body still needs lots of work. http://www.fairladyzg.com/index.htm I always liked this one. Don shipped it home to the east coast in 1986.

Yikes! 10 to 15K for one! I bought my first Fairlady Z outside Kadena's gate 4 for 30,000 Yen. But that was 1986. It was a 73 and had been sitting in a covered area of a repair shop. My how things have changed! Good luck finding one in decent shape there now. But you never know, one might just be sitting in a place you would least expect. I have another Fairlady Z now. And I found it locally in California. Just keep your eyes open and enjoy driving around the countryside. I never learned Japanese but was still able to buy parts and cars from the wrecking yards.