Stealth-Z

Hey Yasin, Today I picked up the twin to your rescued 280Z. It was located in the California town of "Cool". The story behind this one is simular, failed emissions in 1992. No rust in the usual places. This one is a 1975. No emission testing necessary here in California. At least at the moment testing is not mandatory.

Incredible craftsmanship. They must be truly spectacular to view in person.

Color? Black works for me.

Welcome to the RB26 shim club. There are like 70 different thickness sizes for them. Supposedly you can get them from RBMotoring. My machinist's solution was to take off a little material off a few of the valve stems. I have 2 RB26 heads and nearly every shim has been different. We did alot of shuffling and measuring. It is a very time consuming affair.

Here is a source for 2+2 weather seals. A complete kit cost me around $450.00 almost a year ago. http://www.datsunstore.com/ Nice to know other 2+2's are out there. Mine is not pretty at the moment. One of these days mine will be finished. http://www.fairladyzg.com/index.htm

I attempted to gently pull on the needle of the speedometer. It does not want to come off and I am not going to apply much more force. The S30's come off easy.

At least it is not advertized as a 1970 this time.

I did not want to start a new thread because this one warns everyone of the quality of the parts being sold by showcars. Anyway, I just saw this on ebay and wanted to say it sure looks like showcars work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-G-nose-kit-240zg-260-280-ZG-gnose-zgnose_W0QQitemZ250097897660QQcategoryZ36475QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem If someone is looking for a G-Nose, $700.00 is way to much for this one.

The original "Push" style transmissions do not have the castings for the "Pull" type slave.

I debated posting it here after seeing it on ebay yesterday. My stomach dropped because I know how much he has invested. Unfortunetly from what I have seen, no one buys ebay project cars unless they are silly cheap. With all the parts he has, I can see the vultures hovering about.

turbo fb, I think you are missunderstanding what the crank collar issue is. Here is a link to a write up on racebread about it. http://forums.racebread.com/index.php?topic=1585.0

This is where I got mine. You have to create an account to view prices now. https://www.rhdjapan.com/home/products/product_detail.php?int_product_id=422 It is $143.24 shipped to the U.S. Price has been the same for a few years with them.

Thanks for the info. Good to know Nissan did not use some sort of voltage drop circuit to feed power to the guage.

The guages are connected by screws to the circuit board. The screws are the connection points. So now I have to figure out what connections go where. Basically looks like a 3 wire setup. A 12V, ground, and signal should get it working. I am still looking through some FSM's trying to figure out the signal and power levels. While scaning through NICO, there is this thread about converting the S14 speedometer from Kph to Mph. The face of the SKyline speedometer is different but the circuit board is the same. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/232481 http://www.rb30det.org/180mph_cluster/180mph_spedo_by_knate.pdf Time to hunt down some S13 & S14 FSM's and look at the wiring diagrams.

Alot of the RB swaps I have seen have Autometer for the Tach and Speedometer. They just do not seem to fit the theme of what I want to do. So I have been staring at different Skyline guage clusters. The R32's use a mechanical speedometer so they would not be usable with the RB25 trans I have. A few days ago I purchased a R33 cluster to do some experimentation. So far I have the tach / boost gauge mocked up in the stock S30 pod. All it takes is a little trim with a dremel. The speedometer has a cutout on the side as the fuel gauge sits in that spot. If all works out, I will relocate the stock turn signal indicators into the cut out area. The trip odemeter will most likely be relocated about a quarter of an inch up towards the 160 mark. While the speedometer is in Kilometers it is a start. There has to be a resistance value that can be changed to make it read MPH. I need to borrow my friends oscilloscope and function generator to figure it out.

As long as there is no major scoring on the cylinder walls, I would go with it. Anything used I buy is under the impression it is a usable core. The block and crank are all you care about. Ask if they guarantee it is rebuildable. Going with the RB26 head is an expensive route if you completely rebuild it. The 2 heads I have booth needed new exhaust valve guides. It seems to be a common problem with them. Then you have to adjust the valves, very labour and time intensive. The only RB30 components I ended up using was the block, crank, and rear main seal housing. Make sure you get the front pulley/damper bolt. The RB26 is different.

I did not want to go max overbore. Going to .020 was the next standard bore up spec. I see no reason to take out more than is necessary for a nice tight street motor.

Not a bad deal for the price. Mine cost a total of nearly $800.00 a few years ago. That was the purchase price and shipping to Oakland California. I ended up boring my block .020 over. It was borderline within specs and I was going with forged pistons anyway.

Just so happens I have some MAF's for comparison.

It has taken me over six months to get the lower end of my RB30 built. Unfortunetly it has run into a slight snag. Now I am not a professional engine builder. My education on calculating compression ratio and machining tolorances has been accumulated over the last few days. After assembling and measuring, my compression ratio comes out to around 7 to 1! Way to low for what I was expecting. This is using custom Wiseco pistons I got from this thread here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112975&highlight=wiseco Now let me emphasize "THIS IS NOT AKWIKZ's FAULT NOR DO I HOLD HIM IN ILL REGUARD". He was going by what Wiseco told him. Plus he has a set of these too and is in the same position as myself. After installing the pistons, they were 0.022 inches in the bore. This measurement gave me a basis to start calculating my compression ratio. The bore measures 3.406 inches, the stroke 3.346 inches, head gasket diameter is about 3.45 inches, head gasket crushed is 0.047, and the RB26 head measures out at 64cc's Using Wiseco's calculator http://www.wiseco.com/Calculators/HelpfulCalculators.xls Comp Ratio Calc For 4-Stroke Only The ratio comes out to 6.783:1 Okay, so lets juggle some number by doing some decking of the block and shaving on the head. In order to achieve a good quench of 0.040 inches, I can deck the block a total of 0.029 inches. This will raise the piston out of the bore by 0.007 inches. That changes the CR to 7.089:1 Still to low. Quench is good though. Next comes the head. In order to get the CR up to around 8.5:1 requires the cylinder head to be around 48cc's. That is way to much shaving on the head for me! Plus taking almost 0.030 off the block is somewhat excessive to me as well. Always measure and double check. Nothing worse than getting something together and it not perform like expected. Now it is back to the drawing board for pistons. A dome is definetly needed to get a higher CR. These pistons would most likely work great for a drag racer running very high boost.

I have that entire fiberboard or what ever that material it is made of in the attic.

What year 2+2 do you need? The 77 - 78 models had those space saver spare's.

Sounds like a grounding issue. The case of the relay needs to be securely grounded to the chasis. Try running a wire from the negative battery terminal to the case of the relay. This problem occured on a 1976 280Z and my current 1978 280Z. If the relay is bad, I can dig one out of the spare parts bin for you.

Especially with the Amber colored turn signal lenses....Much better than the Red state side versions.

In his defence, he purchased a blown RB25 trans elsewhere. It was already rubble.