Stealth-Z

Just went to the garage to look at mine. Yours look like it might have been a weak casting possibly? All the flashings around mine smoothed up well. There were no crack-like appearances. I was going to take a picture for you but the camera's battery is dead. Takes some time grinding the flashings doesn't it? I forget how many hours were spent on mine.

zcarguy07 posted this find in the "Other Engines forum" Thought the other 2+2 guys would like to see this one as well. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-SR20DET-Powered-1977-Fairlady-Z-JDM-RHD-260z-280z_W0QQitemZ110171085657QQihZ001QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Very cool. I am going to post this in the 2+2 section in Miscellaneous Tech as well. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-SR20DET-Powered-1977-Fairlady-Z-JDM-RHD-260z-280z_W0QQitemZ110171085657QQihZ001QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I knew it would be gone quick. So I made a quick PDF file. Look close at the front end. The Twin Turbo's had those ducts. Someone got a deal. I had no room for it. http://www.fairladyzg.com/pdf/300zx.pdf

ww, Watching how Jack cuts and lays the different materials is incredible. My wife and I were there while he was working on the front end piece for the white Z32. Very cool seeing a master at work. You definetly gain an appreciation for quality fiberglass parts after watching him work. He is meticulous about his work and sets a very high standard.

Thought I was dreaming when I bought this RB26 in Hong Kong for the equivalent of $130.00USD. No where near as nice as your dream though. This one did not have forged pistons.

That reminds me I am short 2 of them.

I remembered the above post when seeing this on ebay today. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-1974-Datsun-260z-With-V8-400-Small-Block-Chevy-240z_W0QQitemZ180154337387QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

From 1977 back to 1975 the AFM had the safety fuel cut feature. On these years you could turn the key on, remove the plasic cover on the AFM, then rotate the AFM mechanism to turn on the fuel pump. In 1978 they changed the fuel safety cut to route off the oil pressure sending unit. Same principle as the AFM method, no air flow, no need to continue fuel pressure, no oil pressure, definetly do not want to continue fuel! As Larry points out with the alternator & oil signals, there is a redundency in the system.

I like your dedication towards your Z. You purchased it without seeing it in person, trusted others to repair it, and your first drive was across the U.S. to Canada. Your story far eclipses my 2+2 Z car find. I found these at the Dollar Tree store. It is difficult to find any kind of models of 2+2's. Coupes are all over the place. Just kind of amusing to see a 280Z 2+2 with a 7up logo.

Nunavut, Nice story indeed. Great dedication and leap of faith getting your Z. -------------------------------------------------------------------- A few hours ago I picked up another 2+2. You can get them at Dollar Tree!

Look's like it might be from Showcars.

I like this photo. Looks like the right wheel is off the ground.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/fr_set-from_top-menu/fr_index-com-eng.html Base price on these seem to be around $12,000 with a 120Yen to 1 USD exchange rate.

The place in California that restores dashes is called Just Dashes http://www.justdashes.com/ There is also a place in Australia I have heard of but forget the website name. "Edit" Just found it. http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au/index.htm Now I do not feel alone having two cracked RHD dash assembly's. I do remember the JDM S130 Z's did not have the name plate "Datsun" anywhere on them.

How are the repairs going on it? Be cool if they do a follow up story on it as well.

My project has been put on hold. Hopefully I can start building the motor now that I have the right pistons. As for the Tach signal, I was looking at using pin 7 off the ECU. An ocilloscope should show a square wave about +6v. Engine bay would be a different signal.

I have not figured it out either. Perhaps the 4th lead is to the ECU speed limiter?

Just for FYI, there was a 3 piece for a coupe on ebay a few days ago. It went for $132.00.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99258&highlight=motor+mount

Seems you are correct on that statement. I have disassembled 3 RB26's and the crank gear slide off with my fingers. The RB20 I had would not budge. Eventually ended up cutting it off.

Just a thought with your clutch engagement problem. I have a R33 clutch master cylinder assembly attached to a vacuum power booster (like a mini brake vacuum booster). On the side of the cylinder is 5/8. The Pull Type slave cylinder is physically larger than the Push Type, so perhaps it does need a different master cylinder.

My block has been bolted on the back for months. I used good grade hardware store bolts.

Looks good. I like a simular factory install look.

Which belts are not properly heat rated?