Savage42

All things being equal, there is a performance advantage to the "straight shot" design of sidedrafts! With a 4 barrel, there are several severe corners to flow around that will cut down on air flow into the motor, hence, performance. A good set of SU carbs (rebuilt or new) will give you 90-95% of the overall performance of EFI, can't say that is the case with a 4 barrel setup. Since you have the option of getting the parts and plugging in the EFI, I'd go that route. Being a Chevy & Datsun guy, save the 4 barrel stuff for a V8, but only the older stuff, as EFI and direct ignition on the new motors can't be beat. Just my 2 cents.

Well, it seems that the little things always take longer than expected. I made up the throttle linkage and got that all working smooth and perfectly....had to make sure it got full throttle. I had the custom throttle bracket made up to work with the stock swivel and a Lockar LS1 throttle cable. With the ported throttle body & Z06 AFM (quite a bit difference as shown below), I want to make sure it can get all the air possible. Almost have the interior done (sans custom dash & climate controls) and will post pics this week.

As for the head gasket, I've never used anything but Felpro and have not ever had a failure, so I'm not saying OEM is any better. You can also run a copper head gasket shim and lower the compression down a little more. As for compression ratios, a turbo engine is best suited to be between 8:1 and 9.5:1, depending on boost levels and desired characteristics. The highest you typically want to go on any NA street motor would be 10-10.5:1 range. It's interesting, as a turbo motor running 15 psi is actually running 16:1 compression under that boost and can run on pump gas. You could never run that with a NA motor. Different rules for different setups. Hope that helps.

You might get away with that if you have a larger cam, make sure it's not running lean and run close to stock ignition timing. Hot air temps can also cause detonation. Typically, 10.5:1 is all I've seen safely run on our 91 octane here, so 11:1 would be pushing it on 93. I guess 93 with a little octane booster make it safe. The piston rings are the things that will take a beating. Always the issue of head gasket longevity with that kind of compression, as well. Good luck.

Not if you are running 100 octane fuel & your timing curve & fuel mixtures are correct.

I know that there isn't anyone on this forum that has the "More is better" mentality, but there is a little room for motto to be incorrect when it comes octane needed. I guess we all just need max compression & HP, so we have to run Premium!

That just verifies everything we've been talking about! With a 9:1 motor, there is never a need to run high octane. If a motor is marginal on 87 and it gets hot, then higher octane is needed. Not the case is a low CR motor like yours. In the last 20 years, I've always run motors with 10.5:1 CR, which requires premium only, but also delivers more power and better mileage than a low compression motor. Still comes down to what people want and are willing to pay for performance.

To get 100% optimization, you are correct. Problem is that there are so many variables and if the car is fairly loud, there can be detonation that can't be heard. So, as a cheap safety factor, it doesn't hurt to go with a higher octane to make sure you don't detonate and you won't see any significant drop in power by running premium. I really wonder if it would show much of a loss on a dyno. I can't run anything less than 91, but since you can run 87, maybe a dyno day with different fuel to test the theory is in order?

With all things being equal, I would agree, but that is a generalization. That would mean that if 87 works for 9.5:1 and lower, 10:1 & 10.5:1 would require 89 and 91, respectively. (which is probably a good rule of thumb) If you live where it's hot, have a larger cam & headers, etc all require more octane. There is often a difference in static compression ratio & actual CR. Of course, we all know that everyone on Hydbridz is about "stock" motors, right? "Many factors significantly increase an engine's octane requirement. They include a higher compression ratio, a bigger cylinder bore, leaner mixtures, higher coolant and intake-air temperatures, dry air (low humidity), higher barometric pressures, altitude closer to sea level, and more spark advance. Also, cast-iron heads need more octane than aluminum heads." Here's some good info: http://www.osbornauto.com/racing/dragster.htm

What's really amazing is that I saw that video for the first time a few days ago and had only 314 views and now is nearing 20,000 views. Pretty amazing something can spread that fast so quickly. Just shows the power of viral subscribers bases & the internet!

Well, I kinda hear ya! I'm of the mindset that I always want 100% performance available at all times.......just in case. It's like these Honda guys who have monster HP at 25 psi of boost and race fuel, but the real question is what they have right after they pull out from the gas station and want to play. (Disclaimer: I am in no way promoting any racing on the streets, but only on a closed circuit under controlled circumstances!)

Well, I can say that having a great relationship and have your Datsun, too! I'm coming up on two years of marriage and four years together and we haven't even had our first argument! Not to say that we don't disagree on things, but we talk to each other, don't disrespect each other by yelling or putting negative energy into the conversation and we just talk things out. If I can give any advice to those wanting to make things better in a relationship, I recommend the following books: The Five Love Languages by Gary Chapman (this one is key to keeping you & your significant other happy!) Love & Respect: The Love She Most Desires, The Respect He Desperately Needs by Emerson Eggerichs There is no doubt that men & women are different, so it helps to know what works for each I've seen some simple changes make a world of difference in a relationship and life. My wife knew nothing about cars & racing and she loves going to the track and watching my Z come together in the garage. Hope this helps.

You running 87 octane? Can't imagine that's the best for performance or the long term of the engine. I often find myself thinking about using anything less than premium, as it's worth the $2-3 a tank to have the good stuff in there! Just my 2 cents. (Don't think my LS6 would be happy with 87, either)

Just whipped up another batch and have a few sets left, so let me know if you need them.

OK, so I'm hoping I can gather and make everything I need for the back deck of my car. What is the actual name or description for that piece that bolts down in the front through the carpet into the front bracket behind the seats, anyway? Does anyone have a microfiche or way to get the Nissan part # for the piece? I figured I'd at least see if Nissan (or anyone else) might have one. Probably not, but worth a shot. Thanks.

I'd think you'd be hard pressed to run a 12 flat w/o an LSD. Hard to push a car with such a limited contact patch.

OK, that helps a bunch. Looks like someone removed all the metal stands in the back, aside from the small ones on the back side of the wheel wells and the front part behind the seats. Looks like I'll have to make the whole thing myself. Does anyone have the piece that bolts across the front of the rear deck area, right behind the seats & holds the carpet down? Thanks!!

OK, I'm finally doing the final detail work on the rear of my 280Z-06 (it's a '78) and I see that there is supposed to be a false floor setup and something that bolts along the top of the deck right behind the seats? I got the car pretty much stripped, so do any of you have an ideas on where I can get a good one? I'd rather not spend a bunch of time making one, but may have to do that. Any ideas or input are appreciated! Thanks.

Dustin ran OSPO, which is a street prepared class over 2.5 liters. He hasn't run the car in some time and we pulled the 400 SBC to put in another 240 (to be a race car) and he's putting the supercharged LQ4 into his 240Z. Our local car club is the 2nd largest autocross club in the state next to the SCCA in Portland. Dustin's car was uncommonly un-high tech. He ran the stock struts with new oil until this year, some comp springs and sway bars. No poly bushings, no adjustable suspension stuff, etc. It's just one of those cars that works incredibly well and he can drive it. He threw race tires on it and kicked butt. There are some great books on how to make your car handle and I've just played with camber settings, adjustable sway bars and tire pressures to get my car to be a class winner. We've always run DOT race tires. Hope that helps.

So, you can see that they make steering response quicker at the expense of being a little heavier at low speeds. Other than that, it won't make any difference in handling at all. It's just a steering ratio thing.