Savage42

Just like any place in the country, there are plenty of good place and "not so good" places to actually have a house. There are "bimbos" everywhere, but to make that kind of generalization is a bit absurd. If you are looking for tracks to run, the bay area will give you more options than pretty much anywhere in the US. You can also live in Southern Oregon and be 4 hours to Portland International and those other tracks previously mentioned and 4-7 hours away from those California tracks. I grew up in SoCal and have lived here in Oregon. The other factor would be what you need or do for work. The weather in southern Oregon is much drier than most of the Pacific Northwest and we have no sales tax here, too! Hope that helps.

Don't think for a second that this thread has anything to do with "width" of the tire, but it would be quality of tire. I've never seen a problem with ANY Z running 225s, even at 120 mph on a road course. Cheap, bald tires are a serious problem, but you'll be just fine with a good, high performance tire. It's the same deal as brake parts, how much do you value your car & your life. These are not areas in which to be "cheap". Higher quality means Better performance means increased overall safety. Just my 2 cents.

I have to agree that Pueblo is pretty darn fun!! For the best weather and the ideal place, I'd have to go with the Bay Area (or thereabouts) in California!! Just to the north, you have Sears Point Raceway (now known as Infineon Raceway), which has a drag strip. (didn't have the camera in-car when I ran there) Just to the south, you have Laguna Seca Raceway (now known as Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca), which has the corkscrew. Both tracks hold big races (Nascar, Indycar, Monterey Historics, ALMS, Grand-Am, etc) and you are also not a far drive from Thunderhill Raceway Park and farther south is Willow Springs Raceway. So, that would have to be what I'd call "heaven". Just my 42 cents.

Not to "nit pick" but I didn't know Chevy made such a small engine. OH WAIT, the engine size is supposed to be 378 "CI" (cubic inches), or 6000 "CC" (cubic centimeters), right?

I've been a fan of Amzoil or Redline synthetic gear lube. Just want to make sure it's good for an LSD. As for how much? Depends on if you are running the finned cover or not. You fill it up through the filler hole to the point here it just starts spilling out. You will want 2 quarts, or maybe 3?

I can TOTALLY relate! When I sold my '70 Datsun 510 with VG30 turbo with Toyota Supra upper A-arms and RX-7 lower A-arm (both aluminum). I had 5 guys all bidding on it in the $17-18k range. I was really wanting to sell it to someone who would respect the car, as even with 340 HP and 400 ft lbs, it was fast enough to really get the driver into trouble. I finally sold it to a friend that I knew had track time, respect for the car and would take care of it for $20k. I really didn't want to hear a story about some kid buying it and then dying in it from hitting a pole at 100 mph or something.

Oh, I have no problem with cold calls and have found some names & contact info. I figured with all the "car guys" I'm connected with, it never hurts to put some "feelers" out to possibly save time & make it easier to get in touch with the right person. When dealing with the online division of a publication, different people are typically in charge of that stuff. Just part of the change from hardcopy to digital, I'd say. Thanks.

Hey guys! Do any of you know anyone who works for/with any of the magazines like Grassroots Motorsports or other auto/racing related publications? I'm trying to get to the marketing guys, but any direct contact with someone who works for any of them would be great. I know most are pretty much owned by just a few publishers, but since we have such a diverse group here, I thought I'd use the 6 degrees of separation method! I'm working on a project that can create significant income (at no cost or risk) for any websites that have high traffic volume, but I'm focusing on the auto/racing category. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Wait a second! I've heard and seen people trimming off the outboard end at the CV joint to prevent bind, but nothing ever about the ends that go into the diff. If the snap ring groove is in the same spot, don't see how taking anything off that end will make any difference. That make sense?

OK, I threw a shirt on, jacked up the Z and crawled underneath to get you the answer. My driveline is 21" center to center and could be 22", but that's the range you'd want to be in. Hope that helps.

I may have to look into those. These are great wires with a 45 degree bend, but still hits before the bend. Frustrating!

Even though the JTR headers are made by Sanderson, they are definitely different than the ones Sanderson sells. Not even an issue with the JTR headers, aside from a couple spark plug boots almost sitting on the header. May have to go with different wires than the Magnacore wires I have.

Last!

Have not heard of a failure of one of them to date. It's definitely a smaller diameter, thick wall unit, as compared to the larger, thin walled units you often see. As long as it's balanced and straight, can't imagine tweaking that unit.

Well, being "preowned" limits options. If you have a friend or machine shop, just put them on a lathe and machine the hole to the size you need. You won't have to take off too much material and don't have to go all the way, just open it up enough to fit over the lip on the center of the hub. Won't take too long or cost too much. (At least that's what I would do) Also clean up any rust or buildup on the hub and take a good measurement to see how much of a difference there is and how much the hole needs to be enlarged.

Well, Holley's are a pain and Quadrajunk.....not the best. I always had great performance with a 600 CFM Edelbrock on my built 350 SBC. If the metering block is plugged, just take it off and leave it in some dip overnight, clean it and put it back together. That may do the trick.

I know there are several places that will modify the LS1 harness to be more "plug & play", but I came across this article and wondered if anyone had heard of or seen this "adapter harness" by McMahon Motorsports? I haven't been able to find anything online for the company or part, aside from the article. This is the easy way to get things going. Just thought I'd check. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0707phr_ford_mustang_ls1_engine_transplant/photo_03.html

Sounds like you have a passage blocked or something. If the carb sat for any real amount of time with fuel in it, you may be better off going with a full rebuild or throwing a new Edelbrock on there. There is a trick of getting it running with the starter fluid and rev it up and slam your hand down on it before it dies. This will pull fuel out all the bleed passages and can often unplug some of the them. At this point, doesn't hurt to try.

OK, gotcha! Well, if you pulled the float bowl off, can you blow on the fuel fitting and swing the float up & down to get flow to go & stop freely? Has to be a problem somewhere. If it sat long enough and it was hot out, the gas in the seat could have varnished up and would be the place to cut off fuel flow. Good luck. Not sure what carb you have, but rebuild kits are fairly cheap.

I'd say that the easy fix for my problem is to modify the stock fuel sender with Camaro fuel sender. Just have to find a Camaro pump (whether good or bad) with a good sender on it! Anyone have one?

Some carbs have a small filter in between the fuel line fitting and the float bowl, which would keep it from getting fuel. You mentioned "when we took off the fuel line from the carb gas was backed up and squirted out", what do you mean it was "backed up"? Check the fuel filter? Just throwing out ideas.

Hey, don't blame you for trying. Being in Oregon and shipping cost wouldn't make sense. I can pickup a 2001 LS1 Camaro fuel tank locally for $100, so I may just got that route. (http://www.car-part.com) I'll just sell the Z tank, pump & filter/regulator setup, if I get one. Thanks for the input.

OK, things are coming together on the 280Z-06 and it's interesting trying to finish off the small, finer details. So, I have a the late 280Z tank that is like new (squeeky clean & painted), a new Walbro pump and the C5 Vette filter/fuel pressure regulator with fittings (both never used) that would go in the car. Of course, I figure out that there really isn't a way to make the C5 Z06 gauge cluster's fuel gauge work with the stock Z fuel level sender. So, the answer is to go with the LS1 Camaro tank instead of this setup. I really don't want to deal with "more work" to put it in, but is it really that difficult or labor intensive? I know several have done it, but there doesn't seem to be detailed "How To" describing this mod. I guess I can sell this whole setup and buy the Camaro unit, or trade to someone who is doing an LS1 swap and has one of those tanks. Just thought I'd throw it out there and get some feedback. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Here are pics from Bill's (Phantom) Z car since this initial post 5 years ago. Maybe he can do an audio clip or vid?

Oh my....how the years fly! I guess going pretty much all custom and starting with a shell and a box full of parts, you realize how much longer it takes, how many parts are missing and more money it takes. Now it's finally get there! I'm going with an X-pipe and dual 2.5" all the way back and have the dual 2.5" in and 3" out. Will be getting that done very soon. Here's how Paul did his car and could probably be tucked up a little bit better, but this has minimal bends in it.