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Savage42

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Everything posted by Savage42

  1. Look again at the JCI site. The $295 is just for engine mount kit, you then need the trans mount (not sure which one will work with that combo), driveline, headers, etc, which will add another $700 or so. Pretty much plan on an honest $1000 to install the drivetrain and then a few hundred to get the rest of the exhaust done. Collect everything you can and then plan on more stuff and money when you actually get to putting it in. Have fun!!
  2. Tire size will be a factor, but you can do it. BURRL has 18" wheels, but ride quality is not as good as smaller diameter wheels with more sidewall.
  3. I hear that! I like my BMW 540i 6-speed car with all the upgrades, but I've often thought that if the engine died or blew, I'd like to go the LS6 route.....which would give me M5 power (100-150 HP more than the 300 I have now) and better mileage. Hmmm! Would sound good, too!
  4. That is a good point! I took another pic from a different angle and can see the difference now. Thanks. I guess I'll give it a shot with what I have and as long as I can get full throttle, I'll be good to go. Gotta love all these small, subtle difference with the different years of S30s!
  5. Hey guys! I was wondering if the throttle linkage pivot piece on the firewall is different between the Zs. The one I've got (top pic) is the same as the one on my buddy's 240Z. The one below is from Qwik240s Z, which has a longer arm on top for more sweep, which it looks like will be needed to get full throttle with the LS1 throttle body. Does someone know if the lower one is from a ZX or something else? Any ideas?
  6. The 4L80E is definitely bigger than the 4L60E, so I'm thinking a custom tunnel may be in order. Good luck with that!
  7. Actually, the $225 adapters are for the pair!! You do need turbo axles, and a few (mostly expensive) options for LSDs. Punch in R200 LSD in the search and read for days!
  8. That will make a difference and rack bushings will dramatically increase steering response. So, you say the car is now loose and oversteers? If so, you need to tighten the front sway bar (poly end link bushings will do that). If you have a rear sway bar, then you need to soften it up to get more rear grip (rubber bushings will do that). Of course, camber & toe changes will help with that, as well. It's also important to know what kind of driving you are doing to validate the no push characteristics. There is a huge difference in high speed/highway (track) setup, a street setup and an autocross setup. If you have the car neutral handling for one of those types of driving, you will need to adjust to make it work well in the other cases. Hope that helps.
  9. To answer your questions, a good shop would replace the rack bushings with either new rubber or poly bushings. As for the tie rods, you can go that route, but make sure the inner tie rods are good, too! As for the vibration/shimmy issue, you said "certain roads" and I often drive on roads that make my BMW 540i feel like a wheel is out of balance, but it's the road. Solid bushings and tight suspension will transmit vibrations through the wheel more effectively. Some tire shops do lifetime balancing, so make sure they are balanced well, too. Just my 2 cents.
  10. I was going to go with the lightweight rotors, but after talking to Wilwood, I ended up with the slotted GT rotors with my car having an LS6 and also being a 280. With the ease of changing pads, a track day is better suited to actual track pads in most cases. I've had great luck with Porterfields R4S pads on street & track use and with so much brake and a fairly lightweight car (compared to most). Of course, race tires will increase the loads on the brakes, too. Good pads will be a key component, for sure!
  11. Well, rebuilding SUs is not just a few gaskets. It's the worn throttle shafts and bushings that cause lean idle conditions, irratic idle, etc. If you want them to last another 30 years and look like new, I'd send them in to Z Therapy and get the new throttle shafts with roller bearings (huge improvement over brass bushings) and they should be good to go for a long time. They are also worth money if you got to sell them later on. So, it's a wise investment. Just my 2 cents.
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