Savage42

Hey guys! My friend's company is doing a contest to give away some gaming computers and PC games. I know some of you are into this stuff and the game store is a quick, easy way to download PC games. Check it out. Would be cool if a Hybridz member won first prize! http://contest.pcgamestore.com/

Instantly made me think of Ghostbusters and the "Stay-Puft marshmallow man".

Just pop off that purge solenoid and just get a rubber plug to put over the brass fitting. Piece of cake!

New to me and I think it looks good but needs to go with a more traditional 240Z looking grille and not the GTR look. That would make it pretty sweet. Get it down to 3000 lbs with 350HP and under $40k and they'll sell a ton of them! We can dream, right?

All that junk should go bye-bye!

Well, there is no doubt that the JCI headers have much better clearance in regards to plugs & wires, but most have gone with the larger diameter JTR headers for increased performance. So, I guess it comes down to what sacrifice you want to make.....fit & finish vs added horsepower. Shouldn't need to "sacrifice" with the JTR setup, but I guess that's the way it is. As long as the plug wires didn't hit, I could live with having to pull the headers to change plugs since it'll only need to be done every decade or so.

I'm still amazed that these headers will built with this being an issue!! Did they even put spark plug wires on when routing the tubes? If there is one single answer to this issue, then nobody seems to know about it. I know you can wrap the header or the boot, but why should we even have to do that and it'll be ugly. (I know some don't care about that so much, but I certainly do on my car!) Things that make you go hmmmmm!

Now that's interesting! I have the Magnecor KV85 (8.5mm for LS1/LS6 and the version for headers with the 45 degree boots) and the boots touch on #3 and #5 (maybe 1mm gap on #5). How does your boot hit anything on #1 cylinder, anyway? I have not clearance issues at all on the passenger side. There has got to be an answer besides having to put tape around a boot or wrapping a header tube due to this issue.

I hear ya! I went with a set of Magnacore wires and one just sits on one tube and another is REALLY close. The rest are fine and these wires have a 45 degree boot. Word is that the LS2 wires are supposed to do the trick, but I hate to get another set of wires and I can't use the $100 set I have. They should have made the headers so that isn't a problem. Surprised that more haven't said they have an issue.

Here's my daily driver 2000 BMW 540i, 6 speed that is 10 years old with 170k miles. I get 24 hwy and 20 city and would be about 3 mpg better if I hadn't put the M5 LSD in with the lower gears. I'm willing to live with it!

Did you replace the races in the hub? I've had good races but were not snug in the hub. Just my 2 cents.

Hey guys! Just wanted to make sure everyone knew about this limited edition die cast that just came out and is sold by Peter Brock at BRE!! There is only a limited run of 500 and the first 146 are signed by both Peter and John Morton and the detail is amazing! I got signed #26 and the BRE Z t-shirt. Get yours at: http://www.BRE2.net Direct link is: http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=models

I'm waiting for the Mobile Glass to come put the windshield in, but once that is done, the car will look like a driver. (at least externally) I'm thinking this will motivate me to finish the wiring and the dash, so I can start driving this thing. Almost done with everything underneath, just need to get the exhaust done. Here are a some pics I snapped today.

Now that I think back, I had the same problem with one front mount and seem to recall there was a batch that was made incorrectly. I know John will replace it with a correct one.

On my setup, the mounting plate to the compressor sits against the head and the other on top of it to. Here's what mine looks like, although I did have the same front mount originally. Definitely need to get rid of that washer. It it just me or does it look like the bolt holes aren't quite lined up front to rear at the compressor, either?

I'm with Cary on this one! Too many holes are bad! I talked to one of the guys at Wilwood (who is a Z enthusiast!) and he said the main reason they sell drilled rotors is because "they look cool and that's what the consumer wants, so we do it". Performance wise, he recommended going with the GT slotted rotors (with directional venting) for overall performance & longevity. I've got the 12.2" x 1.25" front & 12.2" x .81" rears, so it should slow the car down pretty well. I've heard many good things about cyro-treated parts, which makes total sense in that area! Making a car go fast requires good stuff to slow it down quickly!

Blame me! I guess it may have been overlooked for a long time, but I'm just a stickler for details.

Maybe a chance to fix a few other mistakes and make it look prettier in the process?