Savage42

Wait! You said "modified"......so that means it's not a simple "bolt in", right?

Yep, should help adapt many setups that want a clean, direct routing of the throttle cable. I know I can get the stainless ones done cost effectively and may have a way to do them in aluminum, as well. I'll let you know on that one. I'm assuming that aluminum will be the preferred material, right?

The news in Canada is that GM will close 1600 dealerships and will only keep Chevy, Caddy and Buick (only profitable brands) and drop all the others starting June 1st. This was on news radio.

The sump is needed to help fix the starvation problems you will have, as the tank was designed for a carb and no baffles, unlike the 280Z tank that was designed for fuel injection.

Since MSA has sold these for quite some time and if there were tons of issues, you'd think they would pull them. I've also noticed that they do have torque settings for the setup (for both the 3 bolts and the strut nut) and I wonder how many just "crank them down" and over tighten the setup to a point where they don't move. Just as poly T/C rod bushings have been bought & sold for decades and there are a few failures here & there, but doesn't seem to be a huge number of failures in all that time. Just my 2 cents on the whole thing.

Makes for a short list, from what I've seen & heard.......JTR & JCI....that's about it.

They would run $25 and include shipping, if there is enough interest. I figure it's a deal, considering a cable bracket like this from Summit is $17 plus shipping, anyway. ;^) I may just make one up for myself in stainless and take some pics.

The hood latch was modified by my brother when he had a SBC 350 with HEI on it, so there was clearance for the distributor. It was removed from the firewall, cut to keep just the top part and then welded "legs" that go down to the firewall. I had the whole assembly plated and it's just bolted to the firewall.

Hey guys! I finally got around to making a nice setup for my car utilizing part of the stock setup and adapting a clean, simple way to route the cable on my LS6. I was contemplating making a few of the brackets in stainless (this one is aluminum) if there was any interest. The bracket mounts in the same place where the stock pivot bracket attached to the firewall. Let me know what you think.

That is exactly what I thought as soon as I read it. You may need to take a die grinder with an aluminum bit and hog out the center hole. I had to do that to mount some Toyota Supra rims on my 510 back in the day. Just a thought.

Perfect. PM sent

Well, I save that kind of stuff for the road course! You better be glad you are not in Oregon! Anything over 100 mph will automatically get your car impounded, a $100 fine and a 30 day suspension, not to mention what happens to your insurance. The best thing is to find a good traffic attorney, if you have them there. Each state has different laws. Attorneys can't do jack here, but just 100 miles north in Washington state, it's a different story. My buddy has an attorney on retainer and was clocked at 150 way out in no where by the state patrol plane, so he just pays his $250 (or $500 for major stuff) and he gets off every time. So, he pays what we call a "Sin Tax" and he keeps a clean record. I'm not saying this is a reason to drive fast, but that's the only option I can think of. Good luck!!

Wait a second, your title said N/A 5 speed, but then you mention "turbo" in the message. Anyway, I took the 4.11 out of my VG turbo powered 510 and went with a 3.70 (nearly identical jump you are referring to) and it totally transformed the car. It was much more streetable and it does work better when you can keep your foot down and create more boost for a longer period of time. It depends on what you ultimately use the car for and want to get out of it. I'd love to have a 3.54 or 3.36 R200 LSD (instead of the 3.70 LSD) for the 280Z-06, but I'll live with it for now and possibly swap it later. Hope that helps.

Now that I'm working on getting my Z ready for the Datsun Canby meet in a couple months, I've been working on a bunch of the "detail" stuff. Got the transmission cooler lines done, mounted the C5 Vette sheet metal & shifter assembly and the intake plumbing setup. Fun stuff!

Hey guys! Do any of you happen to have the plug ends that go into the stock electric radiator fans? I have to make my own harness to run the fans (I didn't get the chassis harness or relays with my setup) and hoped someone had them, who wasn't going to run that setup or go with a single fan setup. Thanks!!

I've driven this original 1970 Plymouth AAR Cuda Factory Trans-Am car at Laguna Seca, Sears Point, Mosport, Daytona and in England at the Goodwood Festival of Speed. Driving it was a blast and I was a minority owner at one time, but I own one & have it in my garage in the near future!!

Yep, he told me it was a Subaru rack, but can't recall the year and model he mentioned. I think it was an Outback or Forrester.

Dave (ViperredLS1z) did that conversion and here are a couple pics. Definitely some serious mods to the JCI mount!

To answer your question, the poly and solid mounts are what I refer to as "vibration enhancers", as they transmission WAY more vibration throughout the car. This is good if you are looking for a little annoying buzz in the interior that you can't track down, as you can just put in stiff engine mounts and that little buzz will be a loud buzz!! Never found any reason to use anything but rubber in a street car, but a dedicated track car is just fine. Just my experience!!