Savage42

The factory aluminum wheels require Nissan factory lug nuts, as the shank diameter is different. You can certainly drive around on 3 lugs, just don't go autocrossing or on a road course that way! They are expensive lug nuts and are a dealer or JY only part. Good luck.

Pricing,pics & other info here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119706

Having been into 510s for 12 years and being part of that group, then hanging around with a bunch of Roadster buddies and now being a Z owner, I've seen quite a bit. It's funny, as there are "Purists" and "Modifiers" in both the Z and Roadster groups, both not really caring for the other much. With the 510 community, there's only the 510 list and http://www.DimeQuarterly.com , which all about modifying the 510, because stock sucks and there's only about 1 stocker for every 100 modified 510s. While I can appreciate the old stockers, I don't see anything but good by upgrading and updating the old Japanese tin to ride better, have more power and be more fun to drive. To each their own, but I'd never put down someone who likes them stock, but the stock guys sure have fits over the guys who modify them and have nothing better to do than bash them. (most of the time) Whatever! Roadster guys are the same. Pretty soon, the stock 510 will no longer exist, so no worries there. More is better!

Yep, kinda scary to think the OEM bushings would even allow for that kind of deflection of the rack that they added that piece. Thank god for poly bushings!

LS7! I'd live with the stock 505 HP & 470 TQ.

The 240Z rack has an aluminum mount and housing on the driver's side where the steering rod mounts to the rack. The 280Z rack has a steel housing. Even if it's dirty, you should be able to tell from the amount of bushing material that's on either side of the mounting bracket and the rack mount. Hope this helps. I'm hoping to get a side by side pic of both racks and put it with the bushing pics, just so everyone has a clear picture of the differences. You can also see that the 280Z rack (below) has 2 bolts on the top of the splined input shaft area of the housing, where the 240Z rack (above) does not.

Search for "Ron Tyler Diff Mount". It is a replacement upgrade to the strap on the top of the rear diff and addresses the issue of ripped rear diff mounts due to torque upgrades we do to these cars.

They do list 2 different bushing kits, however, there is a typo on their online (and probably written) catalog. It shows 70-78 240Z and then the 74-78 260Z/280Z part. If you had to add material to get them tight, it sounds like someone may have put a 280 rack in your car at one time or the bushing they make is too thin. I'm thinking it's probably the first scenario. 1970-78 240Z Rack and Pinion Bushing Set 7.10101 1974-78 260, 280Z Rack and Pinion Bushing Set 7.10102 http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/nis1.html

OK guys, here's the difference between the early (240Z) and late (280Z) S30 Z rack bushings. These are the 2 different sets from MSA and are G Machine parts. The outer & inner dimensions are the same, but the extra thickness on the sides is very different. Here you go!

Sounds like you might be onto something. As for rotors, I'm sure those will do the trick for you. Typically, the only time is seems worth paying for a more premium rotor (better metalurgy) is for cars prone to rotor warping. Doesn't seem to be an issue in most cases. Get those parts, get good pads and your brakes should be better than when it was new.

I know the MSA boots (Specialty Parts) will fit just fine. Here's a pic (sorry for the bad quality) and the big end is about 1/8" smaller in diameter. Here you go!

Well, I guess after forwarding him links to a dozen or so topics on the forum, he finally decided to join up! Heck, he just sits on his computer all day while the crew does the work, so we should see a ton of posts from him. He'll be a "post whore" in no time! I've talked enough about our exploits, so many already know the car, now you get to know "the man, the myth, the.......er, whatever". hehe http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=552 Gosh, we go "way back". It's been 15 years when I used to pull up to his place in my little L16 powered 510 and ask if I could drive his "Burrly Z".....which over time became "Burrl" and the name stuck. Now his plates state just that. There's no doubt, it was a different world back then and it was definitely one Burrly Z. (he originally wanted to drag it and had Hurst Lightning Rods in it) Good thing some things do change! Time to finish my car, so we can go out and "play".

Yep, I took the old bead blaster to the black parts and trans crossmember was just bare metal, so it was done already.

Damn, that "bling" has got to be worth at least 50 VHP (visual horsepower). I'm all into pretty parts, but that's impressive. I'd hate to maintain that shine.

Since the 510 & ZX suspension is very similar, here's what a buddy & I came up with for our 510s. This solved the problem of binding caused with poly bushings and slotted crossmembers. We raised the pivot points, enlarged the exhaust hole and made it adjustable with shims, so alignment stays in place. As for a welded diff, guess it's just a drag car? Wouldn't ever run one on a street car, as they push bad and are undriveable in the wet.