Savage42

Yep, Photoshop is the answer. I've got 6.0 and 7.0, both of which are good enough for what you are talking about. I got mine for a couple hundred bucks from the University of Oregon bookstore using a friend's student discount. That's the cheapest way to get it!!

In the 510 world, 18s or larger are referred to as "Cartoon wheels".

I ran the same seats, but in the black suede versions from an RX-7 R1 in my 510 Great seats and fairly easy to mount. I'll be mounting my C5 Vette (Z06) seats in the car in the next few weeks, but they sit in there nicely.

Ask for Jimmy Claypool, as he's a Datsun guy and is the one usually dealing with that stuff. Tell them that I told you to talk to him. He'll get you setup.

I know exactly where you are coming from. I had the same issue selling my '70 Datsun 510 with VG30ET in it. It was fast enough to get me into trouble many times and I've got a ton o' racing experience. (the only thing that kept the car straight and not destroyed) I sold it to a guy with some experience and a person who would respect and even improve the car. I wanted to be able to sleep at night knowing some kid wouldn't go out and kill himself in it.

I made it down there for Saturday, since my car wasn't done, I just cruised down with a buddy in my '97 Maxima SE. There was a good Z showing (350Zs & 240s), but only 2 hybrids and both from Oregon. http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=37&pos=48 Here's my buddy's 400 SBC (RWHP/TQ 225/400) powered 240Z that took 2nd overall on Saturday and Top Time of Day on Sunday. His motor sits farther forward than most to get the best balance and it's one of the fastest Zs in the state in autocross. http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=38&pos=374 http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=38&pos=375 http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=37&pos=101 http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=37&pos=102 I'll be there next year for the run for TTOD. A few of us will be hitting the MSA show next year, too!

I made it down there for Saturday, since my car wasn't done, I just cruised down with a buddy in my '97 Maxima SE. There was a good Z showing (350Zs & 240s), but only 2 hybrids and both from Oregon. http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=37&pos=48 Here's my buddy's 400 SBC (RWHP/TQ 225/400) powered 240Z that took 2nd overall on Saturday and Top Time of Day on Sunday. His motor sits farther forward than most to get the best balance and it's one of the fastest Zs in the state in autocross. http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=38&pos=374 http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=38&pos=375 http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=37&pos=101 http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=37&pos=102 I'll be there next year for the run for TTOD. A few of us will be hitting the MSA show next year, too!

DAWG!!

I think he'd sell more sets of headers than PS units. Just sayin'..... "I don't need no stinking power steering!" (Or is that supposed to be badges?) Anyway, if you go fast enough, the steering is pretty light.

Proven side effects include kidney damage, sterility, and blindness. I don't wish any real harm to those guys with the big stereos, but some of them SHOULDN'T be able to reproduce, anyway!

Well, there is something to be said for matched springs and shocks (ie. Tokico Illuminas & springs). An adjustable shocks will make it easier to dial things in with stiffer springs such as coilovers. Springs are springs, so what you are talking about doesn't stand to reason. The problem is that your suspension works in combination of shocks, springs, bushings, sway bars, unsprung weight at the wheels, etc. and most people think that it's just a matter of one thing here or there that makes it work well or not. This is an area where you'll get many different opinions, as there is always a trade-off of ride quality for performance, at least with our 30+ year old suspension. I'd recommend a Tockico Illumina setup with springs, some good swaybars and poly bushings. This will get you far enough along to play the game. Your driving style, car setup,etc will dictate where you go from there. Keep it simple and use stuff that works. Experimentation is expensive, believe me! Hope that helps.

Usually you will gain HP with more advance. General rule of thumb is that you don't want more than 36 degrees of total advance. Hope that helps.

Of course leaving 2 long ass stripes on the ground is important!! It's a MUST! Only thing better is leaving 4 long stripes!!

Nice looking Z. This is the car that got me motivated to start building my Z. My car will look very similar but in silver, but will keep the door handles.

Like a couple others, I'm sold on and have always used clutch type LSDs for over a decade. A buddy spent money to put a Quaiffe in his built Spitfire and had serious inside tire spin in tight corners at an autocross. He wasn't too happy about it. Bottom line is that we all want power to both rear wheels. I'd say the $500 Power Brute from http://www.differentials.com or Reider Racing is the most cost effective way to go. Add $100 for setup and you are there for 1/3 the cost of a Quaiffe. Of course, I've built cars for street, autocross, hillclimb & track days, so you "straight-liners" may have a different perspective. It took a decade to wear out my LSD and it wasn't the clutches that wore but the output bearings. Always ran Amzoil and had a ton of race mileage on it, along with street driving 50k+ miles.

Smart move, anyway. A friend of mine was a delivery driver for Montgomery Wards for a decade plus and is nearly deaf in his left ear from driving around with the window down. He's got a bionic ear now, but I'd rather not. Of course, that's why it's important to have A/C in the Z!!

It's amazing how much of the "drone" it'll cut out, but how you can still talk pretty easily. I've done that in loud street cars on road trips and it works pretty well. Just find a set that aren't bright orange, just the little ones you twist and stick in your ears. Try it and then decide. Just like a Datsun.

Well, a 2 hour window is about right, isn't it? Of course, a small set of earplugs might be just the ticket for long hauls, anyway. I'm used to running the 'Cuda at 7000 rpm with straight 3" exhaust that dumps out infront of the rear tires. I don't think I'd even hear your exhaust.

The tire rack website will usually tell you the recommended tire size for a specific wheel.

Not that I'm a wheel guru or anything, but I think you're just slightly off, but have the right idea. A "7 inch" wide wheel is actually 8" wide on the outside, only 7" from bead to bead. A 4" backspace on what is called a 7" wide wheel is actually "0" offset, as it's right in the middle of the 8" width. Call your local wheel & tire guys to confirm, but I believe thats how it works.

It doesn't go to a carb but a throttle body. DOH!

The logical way to go (aside from buying new clutches, etc) is to spend $500 and just get a new R200 LSD assembly. Probably one of the easiest ways to go. Just an option.

Might try the LS1 experts at LS1tech.com

Well, I know it doesn't make the car faster, but I'll be putting in power windows & door locks. Tint all window besides the front. Hover conversion. OK, maybe wait on the last one. Just want it when I'm in traffic!