Savage42

I even talked to a tech at Wilwwod and asked him for the right combo for front & rear calipers. After getting all the numbers, he says it should be so close that I shouldn't need a proportioning valve. A few days later, I emailed Wilwood with all the info he gave me to verify everything. The reply (probably from another tech) said "Looks like a great setup. I would still put in a proportioning valve, just in case and you'll won't have to bleed the brakes to put it in later". Funny, even the guys "in the know" have different perspectives. I figure that I might as well put one it. Also allows you to adjust for wet conditions, on & off the track. (not saying that's an issue for most, but might be with me) Road courses are hairy in the rain!!

For a street/auto-x car, I'd not go more than 75 lbs. Any more works great on a road course, but will tend to push in an auto-x. Shoot, even with a good 50 lbs, you'll be hard pressed to get any severe inside tire spin, as you'll go sideways first!

Amen to that!! Can't expect 25 year old (actually 34 since it came out in '70) technology to compare with the new stuff. Nissan spent tens of thousands of dollars (probably $100k plus) in development of the RB. Shoot, a couple hair dryers on an LS1/6 will get you there, too! Probably way more reliable and powerful than any L series could hope to be and someone else has already done all the work to dial that type of setup in. Just my 2 cents.

The answer is just 2 replies up. "Joey the headers are 13/4" tubes. So fare they have been good for 405RWHP" Those numbers would put engine HP in the 475 HP range, so that must be the ticket.

Just clicked over 110k miles on my '97 SE pearl white w/ black leather. It came stock, but quickly got 17x8s w/ Kuhmo Ecsta 712s, springs, rear sway bar, y-pipe (good for 15 rwhp), & Brembo cross-drilled rotors with Porterfields all the way around. It's a damn fun car to have as a driver, nearly 30 mpg hwy, and the only issue was an alternator (warranty), just oil changes. Heck, I even hillcimbed it last year and beat a race prepped 325i with race tires and tons of camber. I only got him by 1/10 second, but on a 2 minute run, I'll take it!! Oh yeah, it's also an automatic, which really pissed the guy off and everyone kept calling my Max "Grandma's car". So, on my last run, I came back with "Grandma THIS!!" I've had RWD withdrawl for over 2 years now, so I'm itchin' to get the Z done!!!

I ran the Carrera coilover setup on the rear of my 510, and we've put them on several other 510s locally. The rears were adjustable with 3 settings that varied the compression/rebound rates. Of course, the rear 510 stuff is not an insert, but a stand alone shock with coilover sleeves on them. I'm not familiar with their inserts, as I ran KYB adjustables in the front w/ ZX struts. They will build them for the rate that you run, and they were in the neighborhood of $100 each. Hope that helps.

I KNOW THAT DUDE!! (In my best Jeff Spicoli voice) Between you and your dad, I'm not surprised at anything! Mopar 440 power in a 280 and now SHO power in yours? Too bad it's not the Yamaha V8, eh? Anyway, I'm shooting to have my Z done next month, so I'll have to come to PDX to play.......on the road course, that is! See you soon!

No, you'll spend 4 times as much to maybe have the value be twice as much! I'd say a ZX with $50k invested might get $20-25k, if you have the right buyer. But like you said, it's about having one of a kind car. Most people might think "More money than......", but I'm all about "different strokes....".

I'd pay more for a good one, than get excited about saving a few bucks for a cheap one!

Yep, you just need the adapter plate like on a 510 and other cars that run that. I ran ZX brakes front & rear with a ZX master w/o a booster on my 510 with great success. So, it will work, but you'll also need the rod from the brake pedal to MC that the non boosted cars use.

Shoot, who doesn't like the Bee Gees? I'm with ya on that one!

Hey, now!! I didn't say July 1st, shooting for the All Datsun Meet in Shasta the weekend of the 17th. It's possible, but I'm not sure. I'm still going to keep the pressure on myself for July, either way. The Z06 gauge cluster showed up yesterday, so the dash will get done this week. Stay tuned!

That's what I'm talkin' about!! I can live with that. (obviously, so can you!)

Well, I'm shooting for the 400 RWHP mark, so sounds adequate. Guess I'll have to go that route unless it takes a bit longer and John has his setup ready by then. I think John would sell quite a few sets, especially if they come in at half the price of the Sandersons.

Hey, where's the credit for my input? I have to give credit to Paul Zech, who has a sweet 240Z w/ 350 that I met at the Z show here in Eugene, OR a couple weeks ago. Paul runs dual 2" with X pipe back to a dual 2" in to 2.25" out. It as really quiet and sounded sweet. He ran the setup on a chassis dyno and ended up with 300 RWHP, took the exhaust off at the back and ran straight pipe and there was absolutely no difference in HP, but huge in noise!! We figured that size was about maxed out for 300 RWHP, so we decided to up it to 2.5". I'll end up going the same route. I want the power, but believe in stealth! You can be fast & quiet! I don't want to attract Johnny Law's attention and I'll just impress everyone with sheer acceleration!!

From what I've read, it's about 130 lbs in bumbers & bumper "shocks" and the rest into chassis stiffening. I'll take the extra couple hundred pounds in stiffness in my 280 and with 400+ HP, the power to weight ratio stays pretty good!

I have to agree with Juan. Spend that money on springs & shocks (good ones) and throw a set of Porterfields all the way around and your car will stop and handle just fine, more than well enough to get you in trouble. (considering your age and lack of experience) Good luck.

Yep, there are several 4 piston calipers that will work with Juan's setup. I would upgrade the fronts and add a good pad (Porterfield, etc) on the rear, stainless lines and call it good. Since you already have the 15/16" master cylinder, you should be able to just put everything on and be good to go!

Guys, I know there are posts where guys have brought up what they used, but I thought we'd consolidate the info into one specific thread. Can you LS1 guys each list what you are running for headers, giving the Brand & Part #, size, cost, etc. It would also be cool to list exhaust configuration, size, and performance numbers (ie. dyno or 1/4 times). I know there is a search function, but we should work on getting these specific types of threads setup to cover just that specific topic. Thanks.

The $309 is for the front hats & mounts. You already have discs in the rear. With 80% of your braking on the front, you should upgrade those first and see where you are at. I'm sure you'll have plenty and you can use the money to do other things, like make it go faster! Oh, you can definitely go with a cool Wilwood setup all the way around for $1200 or so. You won't be able to do anything in the way of Stoptech or Brembo. I spent some time on the phone with the guys at Brembo and their calipers won't fit w/o major work and R&D. Wilwood has really got a hold on the market for low clearance applications, which is what a Z fits in, unless you go with wheel adapters and a FWD offset wheel. In any case, you won't find a more cost effective setup than Juan's Wilwood setup (or comparable). To get a Brembo setup built, I was quoted $7k ($3500 per axle), definitely much more than you paid for the car!! Stoptech calipers are the same design and nearly as expensive. Hope that helps!

Damn, can you say "Serious Flexy Flyer?" You should be able to twist that thing into a pretzel in no time!!

Well, for a guy who wants a fast, fun car with character, it's worth it. Shoot, what else could you buy for under $20k thats going to be that fast and get looks from people? Not much! Of course, if it's about all-out performance, you can get an early '90s Vette for about $10k. But what's the fun in that and the insurance wouldn't be as cheap as the Z.

Phantom, your offset is a standard offset that they've shown in their wheels for as long as I can remember. My friend just ordered his Centerlines in 16x7 with 4" backspacing (0 offset) with 225s. They look good. When I checked with Centerline about 6 months ago, they only came in the offsets they listed, usually in 1" increments in backspacing but skipping 4.5" as they usually go 4 & 5 inch). Anyway, I see they cut down their designs in wheels for our cars from 13 to only 6 starting this year. Bummer! At any rate, my local guy said they go for about $200/wheel. Not bad, especially if you can get the exact offset you want.

It really does come down to "what someone's willing to pay" or "finding the right buyer". I sold my '70 Datsun 510 with VG turbo for $20k, which is the most a 510 has sold for. Of course, it was one of the most unique with double aluminum front A-arms, full cage, etc. I had 5 guys that were all interested in the car starting at $15k but only 1 guy who was willing to shell out the $20k. Of course, he just got his doctor's degree and he had more money than time, where it was worth paying more for a car that was basically "done" and close to what he wanted. So, there are guys out there willing to pay for a Z, just have to find him and the net makes it a little easier.