Savage42

Yep, didn't quite hit my reserve and the top couple of bidders haven't got back to me. So, here's the deal, $3500 and buyer pays for shipping. You don't need to do any cutting to fit this in there. You can email me directly at savageg@wwdb.org Here's the link for the setup when I had it on ebay. (pics & info) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2473799531

Dang, I'm exhausted. Can't quite figure out how I feel right now......like I just had a good workout and need a Gatorade, or that I'm wiped out and need a cigarette.

Just like: Postal Service Military Intelligence Country Music Ah, you get the point.

Alright, there is definitely a difference of opinion and different experiences or preferences. Here's my 46 cents. First, I started with my '71 Datsun 510, which came with an L-16 SSS motor, which had flat-top pistons, peanut head, cam, & dual SUs. It was fast enough to keep up with my buddy's 240Z (w/ L24). That wasn't enough, so I built a .080 over L18 w/ flat-tops, bumping up the HP & torque a bit. I was probably at a whopping 150 HP, but this was a decade ago & was my daily driver. It also got close to 30 mpg hwy. Then I stepped up and built and L22 (stroked L20B) 4 cylinder, headwork, cam, dual Mikunis. I had about $3k into the long block, then got rid of the Mikunis and went with the TWM/Electromotive EFI/direct ignition setup, another $3k. This was good for about 200 HP and was pretty good for my 2100 lbs 510. When that wasn't enough, I could either spend a ton of money supercharging the 4 banger or go a different route entirely. I then went with a VG30 turbo (3 liter V6) that put out 340 HP / 400 ft lbs. That was fun for a couple years and the larger displacement and added torque made it much more driveable than the 4 cylinder motors. I've ridden in SR20DET 510s with virtually the same HP numbers at the wheels, but they are totally different beasts. It was the torque of the V6 that made my car so much nicer to drive than constantly working the shifter and revving to 7500 rpm like the SR20DET. I sold the 510 and am now building the V8 Z, due to the fact that you can only get a brick of a 510 to go so fast due to aerodynamics and I couldn't fit much more motor in there. Also, turbo cars also tend to get fairly crappy gas mileage, as it takes more revs & boost to get power, where a V8 car works down low with less pedal. Even though I'd never own a car with less than a V6, I have nothing against these high tech import motors. The Japanese are the kings of getting monster power from small displacement motors, due to the fact that they are limited in displacement due to regulations & taxes in Japan. It's obvious that the domestic guys have the V8 thing down pretty well. You'd be hard pressed to get any 4 cylinder motor to get 400HP/400 ft lbs, excellent driveability and nearly 30 mpg. Torque is king and only those who have had it know what I mean. Those who haven't......well, they don't have a clue. It's obvious that times are changing and these hot import cars are the modern day "muscle cars". Different strokes....... I just laugh at these guys who spend $30k on a Honda (grocery-getter) and $10k of "go-fast" parts on it and get spanked by a 10 year old (or less) Vette for half the price. Personal taste, performance goals, the process of simply building your own car are all things we have the luxury of doing, although "taste" and ways of going about it are going to cover the entire spectrum. Bottom line: I think the only valid opinions comparing the different motors, etc would come from people who have owned & driven all of them. Some guy talking "theory" and giving their "opinion" means nothing to me and the rest who have "been there, done that". Like they say: "Opinions are like.......". I once heard someone say "size does matter" and I'd have to agree. hehe

Jet Hot came out with a newer extreme hi-temp coating several years back. I had an exhaust mainfold done for my 510 about a decade ago and it still looks good. The stuff will definitely withstand "daily driver" duty!! Not all coatings are created equal and you want to coat them while they are new. Chrome headers must be stripped before coating. Anyway, I've only dealt with Jet Hot with great results and I got the manifold back in a week. So, there you go.

I got my kit from John a month or so ago and I have to say that I'm impressed with the workmanship. Great looking stuff and looks like I won't be a big deal putting in the setup. I had John start on a kit for my LS w/ auto back in Sept (?), as he had only done the 6 speed setup that he did for Phantom. It was worth the wait!! Pics coming soon!

I was recently chatting with the guy who helped build that car for Tod and he talked about how they had to get the wheels just right (down to the millimeter) to get the 255s to fit under the stock sheet metal. Not easy or cheap, but looks good. I just couldn't sacrifice the ride for the look, either.

For all practical purposes, torque is king! HP is just the rate at which it does the work. I'd rather have my friend's 400 SBC 240Z with only 215 HP and 400 ft lbs at the wheels than 300+ HP and minimal torque. I've had hot 4 bangers, turbo 6s, and now gave into the fact that a hot V8 is the only way to go. I've submitted to the whole "No replacement for displacement" philosophy.

Speaking of Scarabs, there one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=2472732502&rd=1

As mentioned, you do have to be careful with some of them. The last LS6 I saw on there was a stock one with a few thousand miles on it and it went for $7k, for just the engine assembly, no transmission. Makes you wonder.

Well, my brother built the car the way he wanted it. I bought it from him, it's been stripped down to the shell, down to bare metal, getting a full restoration, going with an LS motor, adding AC, power windows, etc. Basically, I'm going away from the "hot rod" setup to more of a subtle, more quiet version. I guess I'm getting older. Don't get me wrong, I love the sound of a hot V8, but I'm looking for smooth & quiet, even though I won't be getting more power. Just a preference thing and I know it'll be an awesome setup for someone else who's ready to hybrid-ize their Z.

For those looking for an upgrade, here you go!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2473799531

Well, it's up for grabs. If any of you wouldn't mind posting this to any other Z or Datsun lists, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2473799531

You know I'm ready for a set!! (Just in time!!)

It all comes to the level of standards you ultimately want. I've been part of the 510 crowd for over a decade and about 5 years ago, the VG30 swap came around, now the SR20DET being the hot ticket. We've had guys do the VG swap for $2k and many others that run 2-3 times that. Can you do the LS1 swap for $5k? Sure. Is that what it usually costs 90% of the others that do it? Not even close. You can spend $5k just getting a drivetrain and several grand in getting it in. Then, if the car is stock, you have a grand here and a grand there to upgrade suspension, brakes, all the "nickel & dime" stuff. It seems like there are several Z that have sucked $20k to get them up to snuff and many more that just throw in a V8 and call it good. We just don't want the newbies to think that $5k for the swap is a standard, more like an exception. Too many variables to come to an exact "ballpark" price on the conversion when just about everyone has spent a different amount than many others. Just sayin......

That's what I was wondering. With the car getting new paint with a bare metal resto, it's the time to roll those lips, anyway. Thanks for the input.

Yep, it's a characteristic of the semi-trailing arm suspension in both the ZXs & 510s. I ran ZX rear arms on my 510 and made some modifications to the crossmember to make it fully adjustable for camber & toe, while raising the mounts up an 1". Here's a picture of the modified 510 crossmember (not too different than the ZX) w/ the ZX arms and Subaru (R160 LSD) diff. http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2144&papass=&sort=1 You can get a ton of 510 info at: http://www.dimequarterly.com In particular, go to the articles section. You may want to consider buying a back issue of Volume 2, Issue 3, which has a detailed write-up with drawings how to make your rear crossmember fully adjustable, which also allows you to run poly bushings and not have them die like they do with a slotted crossmember. You can also check out some other 510, 'Cuda, & other pics in my personal albums at: http://datsun510.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=49&thumb=1 It's a great setup and something every serious ZX owner should consider.

Tim, I'm planning to go with the same size wheels & tires on my 280Z. Are you running any spacers and did you roll the fender lip? Thanks.

You may want to keep your options open to go with a clean 280Z, too. They weigh a little more, but it's all in chassis stiffening, which makes it a much better candidate for a high powered V8 conversion than a "flexy flyer" 240 that will require some chassis mods, connectors, etc to keep the car alive and attempt to prevent serious stress cracks in the c pillar, etc. Personally, I like the 280Z with the MSA Aero kit, which makes the car look a little more modern to go with that modern drivetrain. 8) Being new, it's a good to get all the info & options you can get, and you can get them here! Good luck.

Sounds like you need to make a call to the credit card company and them them they charged your card w/o permission!! That's ridiculous!!

But, they don't. Lots and lots of road racers use the stock Datsun brake system with great succuss on tracks across the country. You are right, just bleeding the stock system with some good fluid and putting a set of Porterfields all the way around would give most Z owners all the brakes they'd ever need. (the pads are the most important part!) Now, they might not be "optimum" for track days, but for street & strip, they'd be more than adequate.

They just have to be the thickness of the case flange, which may be a little less than 1/2". I'd call them back and ask for that measurement and you should be good to go. If someone here can whip some out, that'd be cool, or you should be albe to have a local machine shop to do it.

They usually go for $600 a pair, which isn't too bad. I scored a set at a yard that had them sitting up in the rafter for a few years for $350 for the pair. I'm currently installing C5 (actually Z06) seats in my 280Z, but they cost a few bucks, too. The best thing about OEM is that they tend to build them to last longer than most aftermarket seats I've seen. (the whole warranty thing)