Savage42

Here's one case for Slick 50. While teflon floating in your oil doesn't do anything and certainly won't coat anything, it does work under different circumstances. The only way (that I've heard of) for something like Slick 50 to work is in places where there is extreme pressure between 2 metal surfaces. My buddy had a howling rear end, where the gears had worn and had a harmonic whine to them. I know that many of you know what I'm talking about. Many transmissions do the same when they get older and worn. Anyway, he put some in the diff and it went away. The extreme pressure and heat of the gears actually pressed the teflon info the fine grooves, etc. So, there's a cheap fix for an older diff or trans. I just wouldn't recommend putting the stuff into a LSD diff, as teflon and clutch discs probably don't like each other. Just thought I'd pass that along. In regards to oils, I've had great luck with Mobil 1 and Amzoil. We only run Mobil 1 in our Mopar race cars. I was running at Daytona a few years ago in our '73 Petty Challenger and while going around Nascar turn 3, I got a little smoke inside the car. I could feel that the motor was getting tight. I was flat out at 180 mph and I looked at the oil temp and it was at 375 degrees. I shut the motor down and coasted back into the pits. Once cooled, it fired up and we rebuilt the motor. Rod bearings were gone, but motor was saved. Good stuff.

I've never actually run a drag strip before, but have raced on most of the major road courses in the country and Mosport in Canada. Anyway, since we are on the speed issue, this video will show you how there are different worlds out there. Sure, the V8 Z kicks ***, then you see something like this vid with this BMW M3 GTR. From what I heard, it's only 450 HP and 2900 lbs, but there's a ton to be said for modern suspension technology and big road racing slicks!! Also, this is the reason that they don't run the full length Nurburgring these days. Enjoy!! http://www.specmiatavideos.com/Other%20Videos/m3_gtr_nurburgring.wmv

I'll be running the R180 3.36 LSD in mine, but the auto will be nicer to the diff, I'm sure. However, I don't think you'll need to worry about it. I wouldn't mind getting your trans, just wonder how much shipping would run?

I'm currently waiting for my R180 LSD with 3.36 gears to get here and will be using CV axles. I got them out of a 200SX with an R180 LSD. There are 2 types of LSD carriers, one that uses the standard bolt (like stock Z stuff) and one that has the internal clips for the later model stuff (grooves on the axle stubs). If you look at a Nismo catalog, they show different LSD carriers for the later R180s, so that's what you'd want to run CVs. Hope that helps.

I'm not a Quadrajunk fan, have always gone with Edlebrock performer carbs. (now I'm going EFI, of course) Sounds like the choke could be funky. Manual or auto choke can make a difference. If the car sat long enough for the battery to go dead for any amount of time, the fuel in the carb could have turned into varnish or the carb just needs to be cleaned & rebuilt. Nothing major, just a little time consuming but well worth it when it runs right. Congrats on the new ride!

My buddy is the head of Marketing for Nissan and they have no desire to do anything with a Z that has a non-Nissan motor. I was looking to get some exposure for Nismo and they said they wouldn't even hook me up with a diff if it's attached to a Chevy V8. Of course, they said "If you'd like a Nissan V8 to put in there........", but it's virtually impossible and cost prohibitive to get a Nissan V8 to get 400 RWHP on pump gas like you can with a SBC V8. Don't think a $10k Nissan motor would be nearly as streetable, either. Anyway, just the feedback I got from my "insider" connection. I guess we'll have to live with the "bastard children" rep from the factory, but at least everyone else thinks they are cool.

I owned a '71, blue 2 door with ghost BRE stripes on the sides. It was in an issue in 2001. It had an L22 with Electromotive/TWM setup, Carrera coilovers all the way around, custom control arms & rear crossmember, Nismo close ratio 5 speed, aluminum flywheel, etc. etc. The turbo VG car was in SCC in 2000. Finally got the blue one in the mag after I sold it and moved onto the VG car. Weird how that works.

Yep, he's always like the 510 and has a nice one with BRE paint scheme. It's just too bad that he's not into the 510 crowd, as he thinks all us old time Datsun lovers are a bunch of freeks and go way overboard with the whole thing. He can't stand to talk to the hardcore 510 guys at all. Cool car, but doesn't earn any respect from me.

It's all about rotating mass and unsprung weight, neither of which is a good thing in regards to performance and/or acceleration. Ride quality will definitely go down with 17s. The main difference will be steering response, but overall handling isn't determined by just the wheel & tire combo. Suspension & handling work as a unit, so any changes with wheels will change what spring rate works the best, shock valving, sway bar size, camber & toe, etc. How's that for an answer?

I got both my 510s into SCC. Helps to know one of the editors and the photographer! More Zs would be good!

That's a fair price for the Wilwood proportioning valve, as they retail for $39.99 at http://www.precisionbrakescompany.com.

I bought the Tokico setup with Illuminas and springs. The springs did not look like progressives, and as was mentioned, the only progressives I ever saw were the Eibachs, which are not made for the 280s anymore. My stuff came quickly and is all new in the factory box.

The better prepped they are, the better they'll turn out and since you've already polished them, you're good to go. I've seen a set of ZX 6 spoke wheels that were chromed and they looked sweet! I'd do it!

You should be fine. As was mentioned, I ran an R160 LSD (which is still in the car now) for nearly 5 years and still going strong, that with the VG turbo and was with race tires and autocross & hillclimb duty. It's the hard starts from a stop that "shock" things, but without spider gears, they are damn tough. I've got an R180 LSD with CVs that will be in my Z with the LS6 and shooting for 400/400 range at the wheels, so that'll be a true test. Car will be on the road shortly, so stay tuned. Also, it's monster torque that breaks stuff, not so much HP. Turbos come on so smooth, that you shouldn't have a problem racing it, either. My VG car had 125 ft lbs at 1500 rpm and 300 ft lbs at 2400 rpm (at the wheel), which is quite a bit over less than 1000 rpm range. Still no probs with the diff. Keep good synthetic oil in it and you're golden.

As mentioned, cross drilled rotors are for looks, but are actually not a good thing for all-out performance. Wilwood highly recommends staying away from cross drilled rotors, but slotted are a good thing. The issue about high end cars having cross drilled rotors is that they are actually cast that way, which makes them much more expensive, vs the stock cast ones that people drill themselves and sell. Huge difference in quality overall. From what I've heard, Brembo doesn't even sell a cross drilled rotor, where the company buying and selling them is doing that. In regards to pads, I've had bad luck with metal masters, as they have too much metal that eat rotors. The Porterfield R4S pads are awesome for street, autocross, hillclimb, & limited track duty, as they are carbon kevlar and won't eat rotors as badly. If you are doing hard track days, invest in a set of the R4 or R4E pads for those days. It's worth switching pads if you want the most out of your brakes. I had awesome luck with '82 ZX brakes w/ Porterfields on my 510, but it also weighed 2100 lbs, but seems to not be adequate to stop a boat of a ZX. Hope that helps.

Since the C5 Vette runs something around a 3.3, I figured I'd follow suit with the 3.36 LSD. We'll see how it works.

Here's what you get from what you shot me and the few minutes I was willing to spend on it. Hope it helps.

Just got those fans in the mail the other day. Look like they'll do the trick. It's not like it really gets that hot here in Oregon, but must stand up to some trips to SoCal. Since it works for Phantom, I'm sure it'll work for me. Picked up mine for $75.

Sheez, I sold both my 510s and got a Z.......so I actually traded down according to that list. DOH!

It's easy enough to do and I'll do it really quick for you, if you send me a pic of the Z you want me to put it on. It has to be sitting really close to the same angle as the wheel to look right. It doesn't matter what side of the car the pic is taken from, as you can flip the wheel or car to match, but the angle is the issue. Email one to me and I'll show you want it looks like.

Do you have any close-up pics of your wheels & tires? I wanted to see how much bulge in the sidewall you have with a 245 on a 7" wheel. I was told by my guy that it's really too big and should go with 225s on a 7" and 245s on an 8". It's a fact that too much tire on a narrow rim will hurt handling, but maybe your car isn't set as much for ultimate handling as mine is. Feedback anyone?

Yep, those are the same ones that I had. They are very comfortable and mine also sat low and at a bit of decline, but they are great seats. I'd go with them again if I wasn't using the Vette seats. Cool stuff.