Savage42

I will be finding out this weekend, as I just got the baffle and crank scraper setup from Improved Racing Products. The quality of the parts is nice. Got exhaust done last weekend and alignment this weekend. Time to get this thing dialed in and go hit Sebring!

I currently have the 16 x 7 with 225/50-16 tires, which will become the "track wheels & tires" for running Sebring, etc. I am working on a set of 17 x 8 wheels with 245/40-17 for the street. Both of those tire sizes are pretty plentiful and not too expensive.

Machine shop said the batch will be ready this coming week. I will ship them out as soon as I get them into hands! Thanks.

Just wanted to let you guys know that tje machine shop said the batch of brackets will be ready this coming week, so I will send them as soon as I get them iny hands.

Got it! Thx!

Gotcha, so effectively adding a 19mm differential to the actual offset of the wheel. That makes more sense, as I was wondering about how those numbers would work under stock fenders without spacers. Thanks for the clarification.

My guess is that there are some spacers or adapters being used there, as well, so that doesn't tell you what the real offset (needed to fit) would need to be to fit that wheel. I'm looking at a set of 17 x 8 wheels (built to any offset I want), so I have to play around with the best offset that would require only a set of spacers on one end, if possible. This would be under stock, rolled fenders. I currently have 16 x 8 wheels with adapters (due to the FWD offset) and want dished wheels.

They are being made right now and I will let you guys know when i get shipping info from the machine shop. It takes a few days to get them from one side of the country to the other, so I'm hoping that I see them and send them out right after the first of the year. I have only had a few of the people on the list pay for the bracket, but I went ahead and pulled the trigger on getting them made. Thanks.

You are right about what tire sizes may fit, as they vary by manufacturer and also by what size a person is willing to stretch onto any given wheel size. Instead of a just a "show your wheels" thread where everyone just throws a pic in the pot with limited info, maybe something a bit more defined and with more info would be the easiest way to get this kind of information narrowed down. Another option may be to pin a thread at the top of this forum and have one for each size (14" - 18") of wheel and each person can put a side picture of their Z. (ie. Post your 15" wheel, size, offset and other info) The following info would be helpful: Wheel Brand: Size: Offset: Spacers: Y / N Fenders: stock, rolled lip, flares Springs: stock, aftermarket or coilovers Control arms: stock or adjustable Camber Plates: Y / N Tires Brand: Model : Size: I think pics like a side shot of the car, pic of wheel/tire clearance to strut and a shot taken from the front & rear directly along the side of the car to show how much the wheel sticks out / sits inward / close to flush would be useful, as well. What do you guys think? I know it'll take a little time for each person to put the info together, but would likely yield the best collection of information with the most ease & least amount of work. With that resource, then an actual database/sheet could be put together.

Hey guys! For many years, the most commonly asked question (that doesn't seem to have a clear answer in many cases) is the ideal wheel size, offset & tire size used on our S30 Z based on whether the car has stock struts utilizing stock or aftermarket springs, a coilover conversion, stock fender lips, rolled fender lips or flares, suspension upgrades (bumpsteer spacers, adjustable control arms, etc.), ride height (from the rocker to the ground, and brakes (stock or upgraded), etc. Has anyone started (or considered doing) a master spreadsheet / Application Guide that has a column for each of these variables? Do any of you web savvy guys know how to make some sort of page or table that people can enter what they have and maybe a spot to upload a side shot of the car? Just a thought. We can start here with this thread to post all those kinds of details on each members rides to start collecting data and then input it into some sort of database/sheet? Just a thought. Anyone have any additional input in this regard?

Actually, I'm in the middle of getting people together for one final group buy to have a batch made up. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/77002-throttle-cable-setup-lockar-custom-bracket/

Hey guys! It looks there are enough people who are wanting these to make up a small batch. The cost for the stainless bracket is $35 shipped. Paypal to garysavage@me.com would be great and please include Hybridz screen name and address. I will have a few extra made on top of these. From this thread, it looks like: 1 x nsanow 1 x 88dangerdan 1 x _Donovan_ 1 x JoeK 1 x harlest 1 or 2 x EvilC 1 or 2 x NgoZ If we can get these ones ordered, I can get them made up & shipped out in the next couple weeks. Thanks.

Uh, yeah, NO! Are you saying to go slower in a turn to pull less Gs and that is faster? Not going fast on any road course in a variety of cars I've driven. Why are the cars pulling the fastest lap time pulling more Gs in the corners? I'm all about slow in, fast out, but when you are doing over 100 mph going into Turn 1 at Sebring (a long, sweeping left hander), you can't really drive that way. I assume you are talking more about autocrossing and in a car that has good acceleration, as a low powered "momentum car" is all about how much speed (Gs) you can carry through corners. Cary, your comment about a 2-3 second high G left hander is exactly what Turn 1 at Sebring is, so I better work on getting the scraper & windage tray in the LS6 before my first track day here in the Z! Don't want to blow the motor, which MANY Corvettes (stock) do on a fairly regular basis here. Good stuff to know.

Well, I have to try and "work" the machine shop that made them for me. The recent quote plus shipping means I make nothing on them, have to pay for all of them up front and hope I can sell them all to break even. I'll see what I can do and the lowest quantity they will do for me, as it took me many years to sell the 25 I had made up.

Nissan only. New or hit a wrecking yard that may have some wheels (factory aluminum) with those factory lug nuts. The only option and DO NOT USE those other ones!! Bad things will happen!!

Also, their shop/demo car is a nice LS powered 3rd gen RX7.

I will check with them on the scraper, as I'm sure an issue like that would have been remedied fairly quickly. I've seen & have heard many positive reviews on their baffles. They are located here in Florida and I saw & talked to them at a muscle car show at Disney last year. Nice quality products!!

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/What%20is%20a%20crank-scraper.html

Jon, I appreciate the added input. I guess since I'll have the pan off to add the baffles, I might as well spend the extra $73 for the crank scraper.

I went with the T3 arms, but also came across these a while back and saved the link. Has anyone every used them or seen them on a Z? http://www.hammondsplains.com/z/zworld/zraceproducts/

Before I run my car at Sebring, I am definitely looking at adding the baffles to my pan. There are LS motors (mostly C6 Corvettes) that blow nearly every track day at Sebring, so better safe than sorry! These guys make some nice stuff. http://www.improvedracing.com/baffles/ls1-camaro-firebird-body-racing-oil-pan-baffle-p-30.html

Ok, since you guys want them, I'll get another batch made up. Will get back to you shortly to setup purchase.

Hey guys! As you can see from my previous post back in July of last year, I only had a couple left. It took over a year for a couple other guys to inquire & buy the couple I had left. In natural fashion, I get a couple inquiries for them right after that in the last couple months. If I get some others that are interested, I could get another batch done. It took me 5 years to sell the 2 dozen I had done, so at a couple a year, it'll take a while to move them, methinks. ;^)

As you can see from the pics above, it is a relatively easy install and doesn't get in the way of anything. It has a dial so you can regulate the amount of assist from stock (zero) to easily turning the steering wheel while parked. Definitely the way to go over messing with adapting a rack and adding hydraulic lines and ps pump.

I hear us! Once you have the 2 part numbers for hoses used with your engine & radiator combo, just order them and you will see that each one only fits in one of the two locations. What is unclear will be made clear.