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Everything posted by Savage42
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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From the album: Building the 280Z-06
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Glad to help out. Yep, the lithium batteries we make are impressive....for sure. Glad you like it!!
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Dan came through and I was able to get the suspension back in, new wheels & tires mounted & installed and snap a few pics before heading out of town.
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Thanks for passing along the part #, as they may save my friends who deal with Tokico some time/hassle. Of course, it had to happen at the start of a 4-day holiday weekend and now I'm stuck with the car in the air unless someone has a pair they can send out tomorrow for Saturday delivery. Having to travel for work in Monday for 2 weeks means it will be a wait. Bummer! Thx again!
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Hey guys! I just sectioned my front struts on my 280Z and went to put in the Tokico Illumina BZ3099 inserts. Well, it seems the gland nuts are the smaller ones used on the 240Z, so I need a set for a 280Z. Does anyone happen to have a set laying around? Does anyone have a line to be able to buy a pair from Tokico? I was hoping to get my car on the ground with the coilovers and new wheels & tires this weekend, but now I'm at a stand still. The threaded section on the 240Z nut is 1.87" in diameter. The threaded section on the 280Z nut is 2.04" in diameter. It's always something!! Thanks guys.
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Yes, I got another batch made up. I used the stainless Lokar throttle cable. I went with the 48" cable, but recall cutting off over a foot, so you can go with the 36" cable depending on routing.
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Also depends on whether you are going to drag race it (one extreme) or just in a street car with tires with a 300+ treadwear rating. It will work for one and not the other, it's what you do in between that leaves a question mark. Sticky tires, autocrossing, etc. will be on factor and it's torque that kills the diff & axles, not HP. Better to be a little on the "beefy" side than too "light".
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Those 2 separate wires are for the "key in ignition" buzzer. The actual ignition switch (electrical part) has the 5-pin connector. Hope that helps.
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Carl Beck is there in Clearwater and there are a couple Z guys right in that area. Jump on Facebook and look him up.
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The install process of the Dapper Lighting units was pretty quick and easy. I plan to have the halo rings come on when I have the parking lights on, as I don't care to have them on all the time. (just me) I have yet to wire them up, as I am currently going through the entire body harness and adding that wiring inside the harness to make it look OEM. I have to say that they certainly give a more modern look to our classic Z cars. Nice quality, for sure.
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Actually, you have some incorrect information there, KTM. Actually, DEKA is a brand and is not a manufacturer. There are only a few American battery manufacturers left and all lead batteries made in the USA come from one of them. Enersys (who makes Odyssey), Johnson Controls (has 20 brands including Optima, Die Hard, etc.) and East Penn (makes batteries for many companies and under numerous brands including DEKA). WIth them all coming out of a few plants, you wouldn't think an Optima and Die Hard battery are the same become they are both made by JCI. Just like tires and many other car parts, you can get anything from low to high grade, but "you get what you pay for" in most cases. As you noted, the DEKA and most of the smaller Odyssey batteries (not counting full group size) are designed and made for powersports, primarily motorcyles and other small displacement vehicles. Being that they are made and sold for that application, the power & performance requirements are based on a level required for that kind of use. The warranty is VOID when those batteries are used in automotive application, so that should also tell you something, as they are NOT designed for that kind of use! Now, many people put the smaller AGM batteries in their cars, most commonly the Odyssey PC680 in the 4 & 6 cylinder cars and the PC925 in those with 6 & 8 cylinders and a mix of experiences with them, as well. Being that Braille is specifically designed, used and even warrantied for street and race car use, the minimum power levels are much higher than that of those batteries used in a bike or other small engine vehicle. The batteries are contract manufactured to different minimum specs and those not meeting that level are sent back. This must be done to ensure performance and reliablity since our batteries are used in high demand applications. All of the Braille lithium batteries are built by hand in Sarasota and EVERY Braille battery is shipped out that facility!! If you do research, you will also find that in the motorcycle market, there are many forums where the Harely Davidson owners and those with custom bikes with large motors have serious battery issues and hard starting with batteries like Big Crank, DEKA and even the OE Harley battery, all the same size & case. FACT: a large number of Harley dealers and custom bike builders Braille Dealers and only use Braille due to the higher performance, which is needed when you cram a 2.0-2.5 liter V-twin into a motorcycle. If the Braille B3121 battery was & is used by Corvette Racing, hundreds of C6 Corvettes owners and even some VIper owners for years, then it will certainly start a Harley. So, if you are fine with a lower price, lower performing battery (which may well fit your needs & budget), there are always less expensive options out there. For those needing & wanting a better/higher performance battery, there are options there, as well. Everyone seems to think that Odyssey is the best powersports/racing AGM battery out there. (excluding the Optima marketing hype as the "ultimate power source") Here is a comparison a battery distributor did recently at the same time with the same tester. This is a brand new PC680 versus a 9 month old Braille B2015 that wasn't fully charged (can tell by voltage), both of which are 15 pounds and similar in size. Even without being fully charged, the B2015 puts out 50% more cranking power and would be closer to double when new & fully charged. So, when you use a smaller battery to replace a large one (the only reason to have a huge battery is for capacity & ability to sit for long periods of time & still start the car without using a charger), when used in the same application, the PC680 would be worked much harder (relative to its size) and will end up reaching its cycle life & failure point much sooner than the better performing battery. There you have it, facts and real world use. Go buy what you want. The funny thing is that most people don't think about the battery until it doesn't work, aside from racers that are looking to save weight and get better electrical performance, but that is the minority.
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Do any of you happen to have a good pair of the scuff plate (metal/vinyl inner) finishing trim pieces. Doesn't matter color, as I will be painting them. Seems I either lost them or never had them now that I'm finally finishing the interior. I can find the driver side new, but seems the passenger side has been NLA for a while. Anyway help is appreciated.
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I purchased a new one (with cage) for $35 and was an easy install. I still have to install it and finish all of the A/C lines & charge, but when hooked up to direct power, it moves a good amount of air.