datsunlover

Just my .02$ here.. I have a friend who is known as "The Jeep Guy" and he does NOT like the AX15. He's broke 2 already, and the one in his YJ now is starting to die. He's running the stock 4.2, rebuilt, with a slightly hoter cam. I actually was considering using one in my Z.. My Jeep buddy sais they are junk though.. how well would it work on a Z?!?

OMFG.. looks like a life size model of a 'micro machine' (Anyone else remember them?) yuck....

Something else to consider about the VG; being a V6 it is wider than the z's engin bay was designed for, and with turbos, some cutting/clearancing will probly be needed in the frame rail area. Personaly though, I'd go with the Vg for cost/parts availibility... Just going on what I've seen/read/found out. I was informed of a VG engine, harnes AND tranny (missing ECU) I could pick up for $2000 cdn. I doubt there's many RB's (with tranny, harnes) in that price range..

you know... I thought about that a long time ago, and EVERYONE I talked to about it laughed their heads off at me.. :| I think I have to find an old blower motor and start playing now.. Being electric, you could set a switch/reostat to turn it on after a little throttle and gradualy increace with throttle.. (so as not to be blowing into the carbs at idle, but boosting as much as posible near WOT) I'm just running twin SU's, but hey.. if I could get 2-3 psi of 'boost' in there why not?!?

That would be a 3 piece rear spoiler.. BRE style or replica of. Nice shape by the looks of it too.. The long piece goes on the hatch, and the little pieces attach to the body, in line with the hatch piece (leaving a gap so you can still oped the hatch) It's almost like the 80's camaro rear spoilers.. actually, I guess the camaro was based on the BRE.. I dono...

First of all, if you replaced the engne, make absolutly sure ALL of the wiring/electrical is hooked up and in good shape. When it's cold, does it sputter and try to start, or just crank over? Maybe something with the cold start 'thermo time' sensor (one of the sensors in the thermostate housing) is screwy, and the ecu doesn't add engouh fuel when cold? As for the temp guage not working, that's probly your missing wire causing that. I'm assuming it just broken off at the sensor..

No no no, you guys got it wrong.. Nissan needed a name that sounded 'cool' and would sell in America. They asked a german VW exec what would be a good name to use? The german said "Yah.. we'll tink about it and let you know." The Nissan guys said, "No.. wee need name soon.. like by friday!" And the German said "Ahh.. Dat soon?" Anyway.. as for strengthening, from all I've read the main usues in a Z are the front 'frame' rails and firewall. They flex/twist there, and can use a bit of braceing. Strut bars are a help to..

Not to sound like a purist or anything, but why would you go to the hasle of using the Honda motor?!? I'd DEFINATLY go for a 1.8T, or at the very least a VR6. All VW would make parts interchange easier, and less complicated for swaping stuff around. Or if you wanted to get really crazy, grab an AUDI V8 and tranny (equal length driveshafts, ect) and jam it in there.. you'd probly need a couple hundred pounds of weight in the BACK to even it out, but it'd goo like hell..

Now that someone has said something about the WWII fighters, I remember something about that too.. An 'old timer' told me about it too.. Something about how they used it while in flight as a 'boost' for sudden bursts in speed (for getting away or around and enemy fighter). And yes, the principal was, that water does NOT compress as the air/fuel mix does therefore, in effect, it rasied compresion slightly, making more power. I would agree with the rebuilding beeing necesary after this type of.. abuse of an engine.. I'm thinking this is similar to what has been posted about the 'throttle seal' thing..

Thats a great site.. look for flash called "badgers" or.. "Kenya".. hell.. there are SOO many hilarious things on that site..

Thanks guys. Cost was almost nothing.. a few sheets of photo/glosy paper (roughly $1 a sheet I think.. come in packs of 10, 20, ect).. and about 6 hours of my time in total (that includes removal from car, which is a PITA) I used 4-5 sheets of regular paper to 'test' the faces, and do size matching. Oh, and I used (don't laugh..) a red CD marker on the guage pointers. seams to work ok.. As for calibration, I'll have to wait a while.. there is no driveline in the car right now (out getting re&re'd) AND it's dang cold here still. I figure it'll be about a month till I get the car roadworthy again, and the weather warms up enough for me. But if you take the spedo apart, you'll see what I'm talking about. There's a little spring that keeps a bit of tension on the guage pointer (rotation wise), so it always returns to the stop peg. At first, when I put it back together I didn't set any 'preload' and it wouldn't sit at 0 by itself. It's a little tricky, as the needle sits on a pin about the size/shape of the tip on a sewing needle. (That guage pointer actualy has a very small taper inside, that's what holds it on when you press it down. To remove, just pull straight up.. carefully) You have to hold the guage pointer a little bit cocked to 'grasp' the pin enough to turn it, giving some preload to the spring AND THEN get the little stopper past the peg on the guage face.. hard to explain with text, hopefully you'll see what I meen though.. I should be able to e-mail the photoshop file, and it SHOULD be to scale.. I havn't got to the other guages yet.. I'm not sure if I'll do them, or buy aftermarket replacements (saw some nice looking 2.5" white face ones at wallmart of all places!) Anyway, I recomend printing out a test first, as the glossy paper can get pricy if you go through a lot 'testing'.. Tony; I'll e-mail you one, let me know if it works. Anyone else?

Are you sure the clutch bearing is properly snaped on to the fork? (and it's the right way around) And as for movement, does it move with the slave cyl on it? (IE; did you hook up the slave and try using the clutch pedel to move it?) Pushing by hand, it wouldn't suprise me if it didnt move much.. there's a LOT of force in there from the presure plate pushing on it...

Well yah, I thought of that after as well.. Here's what they look like back together; From what I could tell though, the stock spedo is adjustable (in one way) by how much presure you put on the little spring that the needle shaft is attached to. I'm assuming if I wind it a bit more, and push the needle back on, it will take more 'speed' from the cable to drag the needle up to a given number. It would work the other way as well I think.. Anyway, I think they look pretty good.. its too bad about the stock plastic being a little ugly though.. Lots of stress cracking, and a bit of yellowing. But aside from that.. what do you guys think?

I havn't seen this guy in over 2 years, and out of the blue he comes up for a visit! Another (mutual) friend called me and said he was up (lives about 3 hours south of here) for the weekend.. I said "Hell, come on over! I'll be in the garage!" This guy had never seen my Z yet.. He's a chevy guy, never liked all the imports I had, yada yada.. He was really impressed with my Z though! (He's a clasic car/hotrodder guy too.) We talked for a few hours, catching up, and car talk, you know. Heh heh.. He started throwing out 'ideas' what I could do to the Z.. I laughed and told him about this site, saying 'If you can think of it, it's probly been done" He rattled off a bunch; 350 swap? flip front end? convertable? wide body/flares? Dual exhast? Yup, yup, oh yah, yes, of course. Hehehehe.. Made me feel pretty good anyway..

I'll have to ask my friend for the web site, but hes considering a water/meth injection system for his turbo Volvo. From what he's researched, it DOES work on N/A engines, but the gains are very small compared to using it on a turbo setup. Makes sence to me as the more boost you push in, the more heat is generated therefore warenting the water/meth injection to cool the intake charge. I can't really see the intake air in a N/A engine getting to those temperatures to begin with, so...

Ok, we seam to have misplaced our digi cam, so pics wont be up till this after noon probly. For starters, I tried taking the stock guage faces and scaning them (I started with the tach bacaus if I messed it up, I could always buy an aftermarket tach and it would look ok) Heres my first attemt: I scaned the guage, and use photoshop to change the color and add the 'autometer' text. Theres an 'invert' comand that is really slick for this; turns whit into black, and black into white. I re-did the numbers as they looked really bad after scaning, but that left the lines kind of... fuzzy, and not nice crisp and black. So I decided to use an autometer guage face (saved from their web site) and scaled it down to the same size as the Z guages. I did the same thing to that one (inverted the colors, added the little arows for signals) Heres the pic I used to print both guages on the nice paper.. It took a steady hand to cut the tiny green signal arows out, and for the spedo the squares for odometer and 'brake' lights. I plan on re-routing the little blue light (high beams) somewhere else. Carefully with an awl, I poked out the 3 holes in the center, using the stock guage face (which is a piece of METAL btw ) as a template. The photo paper is thick enough to hold its own and I reattached it with the two little screws. The spedo, I had to put 'MY' face over the stock face, as there is a little 'tab' (stop for the needle) sticking out, and a groundwire attached to it. I'll updatde with some pics soon..

Yup, I'm a cheap (read-> broke) bugger, and wanted some nice white face guages; but didn't/couldn't spend $250 for a tach, $300 for a spedo, ect. Even the chepo wallmart tach's are $80...(and theres no spedometer's in there at all) I was looking at the autometer site and saved some pics of guages I would buy if say.. I had a big healthy money tree. Then a thought struck me... SO; I started messing around with my stock 280z spedo and tach. I took them apart, and then with a little help from photoshop (and about $1.00 worth of 'ultra glossy photo paper' in the printer) made my own 'autometer' white faces. Sure the white won't glow as nice as a real autometer, but it was CHEEP! I took off the silly green plastics so the lights will shine a little brighter hopefully, but even still.. it looks pretty good considering how quick I did it. I'm too tired right now to find the digicam and upload some pics, so I'll try to post some tomorow and get opinions/thoughts on how they look.

Hmm.. well, it helps.. I can find it now! But.. is it just me, or are posts 'moving' around? Seams to me that post started life in the L6 forum...

Yes.

yah, thats the one.. but I just went to the forum, and cant see it.. ??? weird..

I sense another round of baning's if this post keeps going like this.. I asked a question yesterday (in this forum, about a problem with the site) and have yet to get a reply... Oh well. I'm sure the good folks who run this site are quite buisy with their LIVES, and will sort things out here, in time.. Chillax people...

Well, at this point I see a roll cage as more of a hasle that anything else.. Something to bash my head off, climb over getting in, and mainly, more weight above the center of gravity rooolllling around as I take corners.. I'll probly build some sort of cage in a few years (maybe) when I rip the car to pieces, and rebuild evrything (chasis, suspension, ect) to take a V8 swap..