datsunlover

A search will probly turn up a lot on this.. I'm doing a similar project, just not as high horse. (I'm shooting for around 225hp) I'd say convert your car to a 3.90 ratio R200 rear diff from a 280z-zx, hmm.. actually, you're probly gona need/want the LSD rear with that kind of power (ceartain models of 300zx came with the LSD) and and upgrade to C/V axles and 280 stubs. I would also look into swaping in a 5 speed..

My memory is fuzzy on this, but about 6 years ago when I had my 81 280zx, I needed front pads to get through the safety check. I went to the local autoparts store (crappy tire; the canadians in here know what I mean) and iirc, they listed 2 difrent pad styles. The guy had no clue what the diff/ would be, and neither did I so I ordered both. If I'm remembering right, there were 2 slight diffrences; set 1 had a wear indicators and a slight 'undercut' about 1/8" wide and deap across the middle of the pad material. Set 2 was all flat, with no wear indicator. Both sets looked the same other wise, (looked as though they would work in the caliper) and I just bought the chepest ones.

Sorry guys, like I said, I have yet to instal the MSD box, and currently I'm just running the zx dizzy and factory wiring to my tach. Hopefully someone else can give more details on this.. I'm sure SOMEONE here has done, or is running this setup...

I was wondering if there is a problem on the site with posts basicaly.. 'dissapearing'? There was a post started recently in the L6 forum. "clutch/flywheel questions" I think was the name. I have posted a reply to it, and there have been a few more replys (as of a few hours ago when I was on) as well. Thing is, I go to the L6 forum and its simply not there.. Had the same problem when I made my reply to it, but at that point it was the 'latest post' so it showed on the main page and I just got to it from there. This has been hapening to me for the past few weeks now every once in a while.. any idea what's going on? EDIT; btw, I posted a few topics down ("posts not up to speed?") about this issue a while back, but got no responce...

True, but as far as I'm aware, the bellhousings (front of the tranny case) are all interchangeable up to 73-83 (iirc the early 240's had a diferent bell housing) and should work fine..

Oh yah, I understand, I was just amazed the work someone put into this fake site.. I was foolish to click the link int he first place (there was no line at the top addressing me by my first and last name) but didn't think much of it at first. Even typing in my emeil and pasword seamed ok, as the place looked legit. Of course once the next page poped up asking for all my info (oh yah, they want to know your credit card PIN # and social insurance # too.. ) well, then I got wise to it. I was a little worked up after realizing I was into a scam, and even typing in my card # to the REAL paypal site (to verify my identity, allowing me to change my pasword) was making me nervous.. Even though all apears ok, I'm keeping an eye on my bank and credit card's a little closer for the next while..

Yes I know it's not in line. But like you said, precautions. I'm gona be redoing the carpet anyway, so while it's out I think I'll slap a few pieces of plate in there. I sometimes like to dump the clutch at oh... 5-6000 rpm and do some doughnuts.. so yah, it'd add some piece of mind anyway..

Hmm.. since the tranny is out, are you SURE it is shifting the gears? (turn the input shaft, shift into a gear, and see that the driveshaft yoke spins) Assuming the tranny is fine internaly, are the presure plate, flywheel, and friction disk in good shape? I'm retty sure that setup should work, as it is a MENT to work together (all L26 stuff) Oh and make sure evrything in there is clean. If the tranny seal, or the rear main engine seal is leaking, it's posible oil got inside and ruined the clutch. Maybe you could try this.. (since evrything is out of the car) Bolt the disk and presure plate to the flywheel (well, bolt presure plate, as it holds/sandwiches the disk) and see if you can turn/spin the friction disk. If so, there's something wrong. IE; one of the three componants are worn out. Oh.. not to insult you or anything, but is there a throw-out bearing mounted in there properly? I just thought, if it was in there wrong, or the fork was messed up somehow, it could be contantly pushing on the clutch, and not allowing it to 'clamp' to engage..

So I've only got an L28 and KA 5 speed.. but this summer I should have a lot more power due to the engine rebuild/cam, and will have the ability to spin the engine a bit faster (7K or maybe more..) I also plan to drive it quite hard, as it IS a 'fun' car.. So I got to thinking about something last night, (you know, clutch or flywheel coming off at high rpm and cutting off my feet.. ) and came up with an idea. It wouldn't be a bellhousing, but rather some pieces of 3/16 plate perhaps.. I was thinking I could weld/bolt them to the tranny tunel on either side in the footwell area (or in the tunnel itself) I was thinking maybe a piece 12"X 8" maybe.. I know it would add a few pounds of weight to the car, but I'm mainly thinking about the safety issue.. Anyone have thoughts/opinions on this? Definatly doable, but is it worth it? Would it work?

I'd give 'er a go.. Sounds like my old V8 Rx.. a little slow off the line, but before you could think THINK (never mind say out loud) "Hmm.. feel's a bit slugish" it was off like a rocket. kicked into second (350th, vac line was off, shifted out of 1st at 5500rpm) and broke the 265/60/15's loose like I was on wet pavement! Stupid me though, I was doing my 'test runs' up and down a street in a new subdivision (only two houses on this stretch) and there was a guy working in his backyard.. he'd had enough after about oh.. 5 of my runs past his property, and came running out after me, spade shovel in hand! I turned around (after all, I had to live 400ft away from this guy) and after a minit of screaming at me, he smiled and said "You know, this is really cool what you built here kid.. But this aint the drag strip man, you could really get hurt if something went wrong, and there's no one around to help if it does.." Yah well... my bad... Congrats on building a scarry azz ride man, dont worry.. it'll feel slow in no time.

oh yes, it get better.. I just realised that it's not only one theifing page, but a whole 'spoofed' paypal site! Heres the link I got in my email btw; https://www.paypal.com/security/ Nothing malicious when you click the link or anything, but I found this funny; The page that promps you to type your email and pasword.. well, It doesnt matter what email address you put in, OR what you type for a pasword, it just goes to the next page asking for ALL your banking info, social security #, ect. I 'loged in' as someguy@hotmail.com and password 'someguy' I then filled out all the fields.. here's a few I liked.. First Name; F*!k initial; u last name; Theives SIN; 123456789101112 (remember sesame street?) bank institution; Ricochet savings and loan bank acount # 666 666 66 I did forward the email to paypal with a description of what hapened and just got one back from them confirming it is NOT a paypal site, and it in fact a scam site. Kinda scarry how easy it is though...

Man I was almost another statistic this afternoon.. Got an email from a "service@paypal.com" telling me my paypal acount had 'had unusual activity recently' and therefor had been 'limited'. (???) So I clicked the link, and went to a page that looked like a legit paypal page. It said my acount had been limited, and I would need to log in to 'rectify any issues'. By limited, it explained I could not; send money, put mony on, or even close my acount. Ok.. so I loged in (after having to reset my pasword cause I forgot it..) and get to a page that wants me to give all kinds of info so they can 'Better serve and protect me from fraud'. Here's a few bits I was asked to type in: -my full name and address -my MOTHERS maiden name -my BANK account number as it apears on my cheques -my credit card number (must be the card atached to the listed bank acount) At that point, I got a little freaked out.. so I closed the window. I opened a new one, went directly to the paypal web site, and changed my pasword and security Q's. Funny.. one of the security questions is "mothers maiden name"... hmmm....

Welcome to the board man, and ouch.. that hurts.. I had a similar incident once.. don't feel too bad about it. At least you're here, and will now gather knowlege and desire to do crazy modifications to evry piece/part of your Z. So don't wory about that little sheet metal problem.. and the cracked light? Bah.. build a custom rear panel with round lights.. ect ect. You'll understand soon...

Then a custom driveshaft, wiring/exhast, ect.. PLUS I still have to emision test these trucks, so V8'ing is probly gona screw with that most of all.. I'll keep it in mind I supose...

Nice.. My little brother is looking at getting a mid-90's 328i. I was suprised to find there are quite a few for around the $7500 mark.. and with the M3 kit and rims, the 2 doors look reeeealy nice..

Greaaaat. Thanks alot man. Now I totaly f&*ing tortured.. no no no... if I do a V8 in something, the Z is first in line!

yuck... I feel your pain man.. I'll bet the floor pans have been spot welded in at least a few places, but you may not be able to see them due to the 'goo' on them. I found lots of similar crap when I was fixing my Z. It's most likely a type os seam sealer/caulking that has been used to seal up the cracks left behind after a bad/rushed welding job. If it's all still metal, I'd try scraping out as much as possible, and welding it up as it is.. even puting thin strips (2" or so wide) over it and welding.. a lot of work yes, but replacing the whole floor sections is going to be more work IMO..

Cool man! I wana know what that thing does in the 1/4 mile.. heh heh no one is gona see it coming on the street either..

You know, I've thought about the Yota's.. Great reliability, and pretty tough trucks.. (although my old 86 4Runner was kind of a POS.. no heat, acceleration like a sloth on valium, and clunky driveline..) Really, I just don't like how they look, and if I'm gona be sadled with something for the next 4 years, I wana at least like the look of it! Also, if I go this route, I'm thinking about getting into something a few years old, cause brand new ANYTHING would be out of my price range..

Well, I've been there and.. well.. I think I might STILL be there.. that's what I'm trying to figure out too.. I think I'm 'on the fuzzy line' somewhere between being able to aford things, or not.. but it's hard to tell witch way I'm heading..

Heh.. yah.. really, if you're gona go that far with it, then your'e still in good shape.. You got your VIN tag and ownership for FREE!!

Ok by summer, the Z will be back together and driveable (yes, I'm hoping anyway..) and I have a decision to make. I have a 93 Nissan pickup 2 wheel drive in pretty nice shape V6 auto (currently stored for winter.. yah, its a snowbank right now..) AND a 93 Nissan pickup 4X4 V6 5 speed. It's mechanicaly good, but the body is.. rough.. and the rear springs are shot/saging. Except for the bigger tires and ugly body, the two trucks actually look very similar.. I've been thinking about what I could do, and came up with a few ideas; 1: Take all the 'good' parts from the 2wd and put them on the 4x4.. such as, th box/tailgate, front grill, lights and bumper w/NO rust, rear leaf spring packs, ect. Then do a fairly cheep body job/paint (I will be driving the thing in the snow) and drive the 4x4 all year round. Keep the 2wd around for a parts truck as it is the same engine, electrical, interior, glass... evrything but tranny/t.case front end really. 2: Take the 4X4 off the road in the summer and drive the 2wd 'as is' till next winter, and switch back. Thing I don't like about this plan is it leaves a vehicle sitting a whole season, and sitting is not ussually a good thing.. I find if you run a vehicle regularly, it stays pretty reliable. Sitting ussualy means rotting and/or being vandalised (part of my issue here is I only have outside storage space, and even that is.. pushing things considering I live in an apartment) On top of that, what do I need TWO truck for?!? 3: Forget about these 2 old trucks; sell them both off, and use the $$$ as a down-payment (get into a finance deal) on a newer 4x4 truck/suv. (Personal preferance here is a 4x4 Nissan Extarra or Frontier) I like this one, but don't like the idea of paying $400+ a month for the next 4 years so much... So.. any thoughts?

I'm on both sides of this one.. The rotary is a very cool engine design, and CAN make insane amounts of power from relativly small displacement. (although torque is a bit lacking..) I got to drive an 89 (I think.. it was a 2nd gen) TURBO 5 speed and YUCK what a slouch off the line... The owner said to get a good launch, you pretty much have to rape the clutch and drop it at about 3500. So I did and yup, it went. at about 8000 going from 2nd to third, I looked down and about had a heart attack when I saw the spedo. ..quite fast... There was a guy around here who built a custom 4 rotor engine by basicaly slaping two 13B's together and 'barely' tuned, it was making around 400 horse. Another guy known at the local track as "the Pizza Guy" (yes, he dilivers pizza in his rotary rocket) is a rotary freak. 85 with a 13B..I think.. and it's tweaked to about 300horse. N/A. Idles like a lumpy BBC, and sounds like a streat bike when he gets it going. Takes out mod'd 5.0 stangs like they were moving backwards. He's on engine #4 at this pont IIRC... Thing is, I have personaly NEVER seen a rotary engine last longer than 120K... that # and reliability goes lower the more you modify it to (like ANY engine, just more so) And when they go, there is NO warning. POP. Thats it, done. If you're lucky, it will sputer for a day or so, and get you back home before becomnig compleatly inoperative... I'd say have a piston engine'd car at the ready to get around in the event of a rotary meltdown.

Well I do take care of my vehicles fairly well, and always pay attention to temp, oil presure guages and ect. When we tore down the engine, my builder asked me if I drove it much last year.. ?!? I told him yah, I drove the HELL out of it for 5 months! I thought about it, and I did 3 oil changes in that time; first one the first day I fired it up cause the oil was BLACK, and about a month later, as some residual 'gunk' had blackened the new oil. About a month before I took it off the road for winter, I checked the oil (had a few leaks, needed a little top up every few weeks) smelled like fuel so I did another change. (the head was toast btw, valve seals leaking, valves looked awefull) Anyway, evrything was nice and clean in the bottom end, and my builder figures it's a very low milage rebuild. IE; I most likely put more miles on it last year, than the previous owner probly put on in the last 10 years! He said ussualy, he'd be woried about just using this short block, but he knows I've driven it, it was still running when pulled, and when it;'s back together, I'll be 'on top of things' as far as overheating, and oil changes. From what he's found out, I'll probly be fine with just the internal oiling, as I mostly just drive on the street and will have a brand new oil pump to boot.

I was going to say that I bought a whole 280zx (well it was 'free' but I had to pay for towing) for $250. Got the M/C that bolts up AND is bigger (going to do the toy4x4 brake upgrade), and a bunch of other stuff too..