datsunlover

uh.. yah, what 440 said... I have the exact same 'dilema' as him.. I have the original (1975) 3.54 R200 on the floor, and the '82 zx 3.90 ready to go in (just have to get off my arse and go to the garage... ) So... Doug; you're saying the flange will just bolt on? I didn't even think ther'd be an issue with the flanges, as I checked out both diffs side by side, and they apeared to be identical.. guess I'll have to look harder.. I'm assuming I'm gona have a bitch of a time getting that nut off right? ps; I didnt intend to 'post hijack' here, it just that I have an almost identical issue/question so I thought i'd jump in.. I figured any answers I got would be the same ones 440man was looking for anyway.

Yes you can get replacement, or fab your own easily for the areas you describe.. and for $300.. HELL YAH!! Sounds like a good deal to me.. although, you should be prepared for a possible 'bad motor' or something similar. If the wiring isn't finished, and you can't hear it run/drive there could be problems.. it's just the nature of buying something like this.. I've been burned a few times, but I've got lucky as well... for $300, I say do it.

Well I don't claim to be an expert at anything, cause being only 25.. most people will laugh their heads of if I say I am! But I'll give it a shot if you like.. Datsunlover@hotmail.com

Oh crap.. so this means my 75 driveshaft will NOT bolt up to the 81zx r200 I have?!? crap crap crap....

I cant find the link (had a computer issue here a few weeks back, lost some stuff..grr..) BUT I found a pic in my 'welding/subframe' folder of the rails I described.. in the bottom right corner, it has writing; "featured at ZParts" and I can't remember where I got it.. I'll try to post it up so you can see what I'm talking about..

I wonder how long it'll be till the bumper skin melts and the paint burns/peels off...

Well I'm 'ell cheepo' with stuf like this.. but I've had good luck with the 'fake chrome' mirrors I bought from canadian tire..$14.59 a pop.. (guess you guys in the states dont have that store.. but Im sure you'll have something like it) They are about 4" round, look perfect on a 1st gen Z (IMHO anyway..) and DON'T shake or move at all. There's 3 screws that tighten and hold it in place.. works well. I HAD a pic up.. gota upload them again I guess..

You just want to tie that last 10" or so from the end of the rail (under the floor) up to the rear subframe? Or do you want to go from the front/firewall all the way back with something thicker than stock? I have a link (I think.. have to find the link in the link somewhere..) to a convertible conversion site/co. that was basicaly square tube (1.5" .100 wall) with angled pieces at various points along it.. basicaly an 'add on' to the existing floor (goes beside the factory rail) that ties front to rear. I'd imagine any welding shop could fab/install it easily..

Looks interesting.. I've thought of building something like that for a while now.. I just don't have the space (renting an apt. and garage space) or the hight right now.. As for suporting the car whilst welding frame conectors it, I was woried about it when doing my 280 last year.. but I felt that suporting it by the front and rear frame sections on jack stands was, in my case, the safer/better way to go. My floor and rails were really rough (p/o had new floor pans done, but they were not put in properly or even finished completely..) and my car was actually 'flexing' under it's own weight.. so in that state, my cars 'natural stance' was ah.. not quite straight anymore..

I agree.. there are rules here for all the forums, and if they arn't followed, it's a sure way to get baned. I think as it is now, all the mods/admins would have to set specific rules and guidelines, and it would work. Someone hijacks a post to under cut a seller? Boot em. Sorry dude, it's at the top in the "PLEASE READ THIS" topic. Screw someone over? You're gone. Obviously, it is the buyers responsibility to CHECK parts as soon as they are recieved, and the sellers responsibility to not mis-represent crap as 'gold'. And as for asking price/worth of parts.. hey; it's all about what you're willing to spend. If you offer a seller to little, and he says "no.. I won't go that low.." , that's that. Doesn't mater if 'it's not worth half that price!!' It is the SELLERS property, and they can ask anything they want.

Ah yes.. the 'evolution' of side pipes... "front pipes"... discustipating..

Oh.. you poor dear... <---------- *shivers in the cold northern canadian wasteland...*

Well I was jut thinking of all the 'incidentals' that go with having bags and wanting adjustability (I am contemplating an air ride conversion in my 2wd truck in the spring.. maybe..) just a small compressor and no tank.. that will work, but be reeeeealy slow to pump up 4 bags.. Maybe it woudn't be 100 pounds, but IMO for what mclark is looking for (quicker adjustment, on the fly..) he'd need; 4 bags, all the fitings, air lines, valves/switches, compressor, small air tank.. it all adds up.. You can get what are called 'strut bags' now that basicaly replace the coil spring (an air bag with a hole down the center) but they are really pricey.. the other route is the 'normal' air bags (cheaper) but then you add some more weight from brackets/ect that you'd have to fab and attach to the car. btw.. how are ya Glenn? havn't seen you post in a while..

Well, if I'm gona get them from a nissan dealer, I'd get the ones FOR a 280 I supose.. (any idea what they are gona run me $$ from Rick?) I just can't bring myself to put it all back together withOUT replacing the struts! and I want this thing back together asap. Thanks for offering to pick them up and get them to me.. I'll get back to you when I get a price I guess.. dono how we'd work it either..either I give Rick my visa # (but the things close to maxed right now.. ugh..) or you buy them and I give you the $$ when you come up here..(there's a new gas station right off the 400 we could meet at, so you wouldn't even have to go out of your way) I would understand if you didn't wana do that though, as it's a 'leap of faith' on your part.. I'll find out what I'm gona do, and I'll get back to you..

Looks like the search is fubar, or I can't figure out how to work it.. ?? I'm looking for post about using front MR2 cartriges in the rear of a 280z.. I'm not sectioning my struts, but figured I could just build a spacer (as the mr2's are shorter iirc..) See, I can't get 280 struts anywhere local.. but MR2 cartriges are abailible.. so.. can anyone give me any info?

Never heard of anyone doing it.. but it would be possible for sure.. it'd make it more of a show car though.. I can't see how adding 100+ pounds of 'stuf' would be a performance improvement really.. I think between adjustable swaybar endlinks, bushings kits, coilovers and adjustable struts, there is plenty of 'adjustment' for ride/comfort that you can put in a Z.. 6" of suspension travel up and down might be kinda cool though.. hopin' Z.. heh..

Well.. evrythings all messed up here lately.. Anyway.. I got my 'home made bushings' built tonite.. Looks like they will work just fine.. and it HAS to be better than what was left of the old ones! I have to do some 'tweeking' tomorrow and it should be ready to go back together. Just have to find struts, get the diff sealed up/filled and I can move on to pulling the front apart.. and the engine/tranny..

Weird.. dono if I like this format.. I'm having a hard time finding my way around.. I miss the smiley guys too..

Heh.. you guys down there stateside have no idea how good you got it.. lol.. I got a plan for my bushings I think.. heh heh.. it's totaly backyard/hick way of doing things, but it worked for me a few years back.. so why not now? lol.. Rubber boat rollers.. drilled/cut/ect.. We'll see.. heheh

Heck.. My 280 is STOCK and its twitchy at higher speeds... maybe something to do with the gynormous whale tail out back, taller tire back there, and my urge to push it past 100mph at LEAST once evry time I drive her...

Yah, Ive been getting "debuging" errors after I post saying "could not send mail" or something.. I hit back, and check the forum and there my pot is.. weird.. I've noticed it's slow lately as well.. *Edit* Ran into problems sending Mail. Response: 550 5.7.1 Unable to relay for mkraetz@cellbio.emory.edu DEBUG MODE Line : 164 File : D:WebHybridZphpbb2includessmtp.php thats what I got just now, after posting this...

Heh.. well, I got a price on the 'prothane' kit from Charlie at Zeddfindings; $258 plus shipping. hmmm.. I looked over evrything, and it seams that the outer rear bushings are ok...(must have been replaced in the last few years..) and the diff bar bushings arn't that bad, but the rubber on the washers (top and bottom) has cracked and gone back to nature, so there's where the play/slop is for sure. So.. I really only need the rubber washer/thingys and the inner bushings on the control arms. And the front, I have the T/C rod bushings in already (had to for a safety check, went with rubber due to fears of breaking them with urathane ) so all I need up there is the control arm inner bushings.. That's 10 pieces of rubber I need.. I don't know if I can justify spending $250+ just for that.. I have a plan that I'm gona try.. it'll cost me about $20 for material, and I think I can 'build' my own bushings... I figure it's worth trying for $20.. I still need to find strut cartriges before I can put the whole mess back together though.. and on and on and on it goes...

To answer the post.. Yes, you can convert the front easily to a 240 bumper; you'll need the 240 bumper and brackets, and do a bit of.. fiddling/moding. The rear is possible (I think) but may involve modification of the rear quarters and roll pan/panel behind your 280 bumper. I'm not sure on the rear, because I didn't have or want a rear bumper. My 75 280 was.. uh, missing the rear when I got it, ('fell off one day' I was told by the previous owner..) so I just did a roll pan. (got some pics in my gallery if you wana check them out) Shoot me a PM if you want more info on the front swap. And to answer Z31_drifter.. Well, lets see.. 280s have a stronger unibody to begin with, have a tougher rear diff, a 2.8 that will really go with a set of 240 SU's, and were for the most part an 'evolution' of the 240 (In theory.. better) IMO the only thing that was WORSE on the 280's, was the emisions crap and big bumpers.. heh.. progress I supose... PLUS; There were LOTS of 280's produced, therefore they are more plentifull, AND are slightly less 'sought after' making them cheaper to buy.. for now. Sooo.. if ProZac HAS a 280.. it's probly easier to swap some bumpers, then to try selling it and FINDING a good 240.. which he would then have to upgrade for a while to get it to the point the 280 IS at now.. Sorry.. don't mean to rant, and I'm not trying to be a dink or anything.. *edit* heh.. ya beat me to it. magnum!