datsunlover

I was thinkng about this the other day too.. I have my pump running off a rocker switch.. so if the engine stalls, or I 'forget' to turn it off, it just keeps on pumping.. I'm wondering if there's a way to 'jump' power somewhere off the ignition circuit somehow.. so if the engine is off, the pump will not get power..

Welcome man.. I was going to do a 351 swap too.. couldn't figure out what to do about the oil pan either.. I think there may have been a way to use the 302 pan and relocate the sump.. but I could be way off on that. As for the sway bars, I believe the front bar will work on a 240 (as I have a 240 bar on my 280) but the rear wil not. I troed using a 240 rear bar in my 280 and it was... bad. I supose you couls use the 280 bar though, if you built custom mounts for it. I assume you'd be putting a frame under the 240 (351W is gona have some ballz!), so that would be a good place to put the brackets. (280 bar's mount in front of the rear suspension, 240's were behind.. shorter bar too i think) Good luck with this man!

I had a lot of fun in the Z this summer.. but alas, I broke some stuff, and wore out some things.. So now it's time to return my car to 'project' status (not sure if its really a down grade from 'driver' status.. feels like it though.. ) So on to the stuff and things.. I made a list last night and.. hmm it's longer than I thought it'd be. Anyway, here's the plan for this winter; -swap out diff/half shafts for good zx stuff I have (clunking diff..heh heh burnouts are fun! Half shafts messed up from my 'wrong sway bar incident'..) -need new bushings EVERYwhere (just noticed tonite the diff/mustach bar bushings are.. well, prety much GONE.. ) -pull all suspension apart, sand blast and paint evrything -new rear struts, wheel cyls -new front struts, posibly cut a coil out of front springs (for now.. coil overs NEXT year..along with a rear disk upgrade) -4X4 caliper/300zx rotor swap and 280zx M/C -rebuild engine/head (gona tackle it myself.. should be fun! ) -posibly sell CD player/6X9's for extra $$ -find a 5 speed/clutch/starter (Think I have this sorted...) -new exhast -sell soul to devil for rent money And I'm gona try to get this all done for sometime around May.. Or maybe I'll have to check myself into the local psych ward by then..

Yah, it should have the r200 out back.. you might look into getting a LSD though, as that much power is going to bring with it some serious traction issues IMO! I've heard the 'weaker' r180's can hold up for quite a long time at similar power levels, so yuo'd probly be alright.. unless you plan to drag the car, or like to pull smoking burnouts from a dead stop.. but who doesn't like a few of those?

I'm running SU's on my 75 280 with no prob.. got a generic electric pump that puts out around 5 psi, and that's plenty for SU's. Hmm.. actually, now that I think of it.. My car behaved VERY similar to this when I first started driving it this year; Carbs were leaning out because the return line I used was too big (I think.. its all I can say it was cause I put 240z fuel lines on and it's fine.) and basicaly, the car would run off the float bowls. As they went dry, the engine stumbled and stoped at about 4K rpm just like you describe.. Can you drive around below say.. 3000 rpm with no problems? (I could) but a good pull through 1'st and into 2nd will cause it to stumble? Maybe your floats are sticking, or your return line is too large.. You can try what I did maybe.. (at first, just to test) I just pinched off the return line (that I 'built' from scraps of old 280z line) with a small pair of vice grips, and voila! Car ran awsome, and pulled right to redline. I drove around like this for a few days and then I got a proper feed/return loop from a 240z.

Heh.. that IS restored compared to my Z when I got it! Definatly tha blue one is worth fixing I think.. but like Gabe said.. we can't really see much in those pics.. Can you tell if there has been much bondo/body work done on the cars?

Ok, never min.. I can get to the link now.. (daves post) it didn't work for me this morning.. ?

Ok.. can you guys sent me some pics of this setup? Or any other way of mounting the front of the diff? I want to get this sorted out in the next few weeks, cause I need to put the car back on the ground and roll it back so I have room at the front to pull/rebiuld the engine. (working in a cramped garage) Thanks guys.

Ok.. I searched, and amongst all the 'LSD' and 'flange' posts, I found ONE post... but it's old and all the pics are gone, well, the link I followed is dead. It was apparetly some other way of mounting the diff using flat bar stock and two bolts.. or something.. ? Anyone remember this or have info? I ask because I crawled under there today, and said.. "wtf is that thingy?!?" Rhe diff and suspension are the only things I have yet to touch on my car.. so here we are.. (I'm swaping in a good diff and half shafts cause mine are.. done.) I'm thinking of welding up my mount, or just building a new solid mount.. and if I do, will I heed to have that rubber strap in there? I'm thnking NO.. but thought I might ask first before I.. ah.. remove it permanently from the car.. EDIT: I can't even start a new thread, or reply to anything!!! This was the first post I could think of off hand (that I started), and I can edit.. but when I try to post a new message or a reply, I get a message saying 'can not post more than one message evry 30 seconds' AHHHHGH!!! I havnt' been on in over 2 hours!!! Wjhats ging on?!? Some one help please?!?

I think you'll have to modify the frame on the turbo side.. IIRC, there will be interfearance with the turbo/exhast routing.. it's been done though.. I'll have to look around, but I'm sure I saw a post on a 4x4 site I'm on about a turbo swap into a truck. (mechanicaly, they're prety much the same as a pathey from the firewal forward)

Damn thats cool....

Well.. if you can fix it, you'll have an easier time selling it and getting your money out of it.. As it is, you'd proby have a heck of a tim getting even half of what you paid for it.. I'd say fix it man...

Yah.. sounds like the 'black box' issue to me.. try cleaning the wiring conections, or wigeling them around a bit.. besides that, maybe try a known good box on the dizzy?

I was thinking miata.. hmm.. I think I have to do some photochoping now.. muhaha.. Nice work there man!

I'd say the rear diff would bolt on.. (don't think 85 had an lsd though...) probly a better gearing than your 280z will have stock.. Brakes yes.. aside from that I don't think there's much other 'bolt on' stuff that will swap directly over..

Not saying I'm an expert at anything, but I have run a very similar system in a few cars over the years (z's, 200sx) the exception being a pair of 6x9's (in the rear) instead of 6.5". Idealy, I'd say get two amps. A 4 chanel to power all your 4 6.5" (run off the pre-amp outs) and a 2 chanel bridgable amp (or mono 1 chanel) with built in x-over for the sub. I assume your head unit will have at least a gain/volume control for the sub-out, and this will let you 'tune' the system to your liking. (don't know if you like thunderous bass or just a good kick drum 'hit'..) Another way to do this using only ONE amp, would be to get a 4 chanel (also with a built in x-over) that you can bridge the 2 rear chanels together to run the sub. Then power a set of the 6.5" off the front chanels, and use the front speaker outputs from the head unit for the other set of 6.5". Not as 'flexible' but probly a little cheaper to buy only one amp..

I believe there is a topic in the 'turbo/supercharger' forum.. near the top, it's been made a sticky.

You can get little table top mills.. slightly bigger than a smal drill press.. Ussually similar pricing as a drill press..

You know.. I'd like to have more power.. but at this point, I'd probly kill myself.. heck, almost did a few times already! My car is prety much stock, and the suspension and brakes are almost worn out. This winter i'm gona rebuild the suspension, upgrade the brakes, and stifen the chasis a little..and add a 5 gear. I'm gona take the motor apart (valve seals leaking bad, oil leaks evrywhere, carbs not set proper) and do a bare bones 'rebuild' on it. I figure I'll pick up maybe 15-20hp, but having the rest of the car back up to 100% is gona make it FEEL like more power, and it'll be able to perform better. Heck, i'd leave my engine alone if it was good.. I think the rest of the car needs attention first. I know I'll want more later on, but for next year I'm only gona shoot for 200Hp or so. My car is fun in it's presant state.. I'm getting excited to think how much more fun it'll be after all this!

I'd do it myself.. depending on the cost of course.. but say a new one will run you $300 or so.. and you can get this one for.. $50-$75 and weld a few holes.. spray it with a good coating of BBQ heat paint and voila. Not the best plan if you can't weld though... could get a bit pricy, at wich point it'd be about the sam $$$ value in the end to buy a new one. Just my $.02....

Oh... my.. f'in.. GOD... That's insane.. I want one!!! Actually.. no.. I want all the MONEY he's spent on that crazyness, and I'll buy a nice house/garage somewhere and build a few Z's... during my 2-3 year vacation from work...

Yet another reason I love nissans.. I'm with the rest of the guys man.. go and enjoy life dude!!!

Stupidness abounds.. that was great..