datsunlover

Even if it doesnt have the spaces cut for turn signals, I don't think it't be much to chop some out to make it fit the 280.. otherwise, it should mount up the same..

Yah, I've used WD40 and it works fine.

Yah, I guess thats the whole problem then.. looks like I'll need to buy a better pump sometime.. but the one I got cost $60 and it works for now, so I'll leave it alone. It is 'suposed' to be 5-6 psi which I though would be the max I could jam into these SU's... but I'll have to get a presure guage and plumb it in there to see for sure what I'm getting. I still have to tune the carbs, change that dirty air filter and set the timing properly, as I am still running way too rich. Once all that is taken care of, it may be fine... but if not, then I will address the issue of 'what to get' for a decent fuel pump that won't starve my poor tired engine!

Yah.. I think it does.. cause I saved her from a crusher. The guy I bought it from told me that 2 days before I came to look at it, another guy wanted it. To strip. He wanted the engine/trans and a few pieces and was then going to junk the rest of the rusting hulk. The guy just couldnt bear to see that happen to the car, so he was planing on holding out for another week to see if someone like... me would come along and buy it to fix. And now that I fixed the boging problem.. wow.. she REALLY likes me! I played with a 98 camaro today.. suprised him! Still a few things to do, but it's comin along! I got to get some pics up now that shes done!

I believe the zx's computer is simmilar to the earlier systems (like my 75) and has a 'limp' mode. Mine did this when I got it. It idled a bit high, burbled a bit, reved good, but at about 2200 it would shut down. This is the computer going into 'limp' mode.. because it gets a bad/no signal from a sensor and it switches to a closed loop (I believe this is what it's called). I dono where to tell you too look thought man.. could be one of several sensors acting up.. check all the conections to the sensors/computer/ect... maybe try the 'tap' test on the computer; Take the panel off so you can see the computer (drivers side foot well) and with the car running, tap the computer box with your knuckles and see if the idle changes or the engine misses as you hit it..

If the injectors arn't firing, they might just be cloged from old gas... you said the car sat for quite a while right? If you have the FSM there should be a test for the injectors too.. I cant remember, but it's a simple resistance reading.. between two values its good, above or below, no good. I have the book so let me know if you need the info and I'll look it up for you.

Fixed! Well, sort of... I did check the choke assy. and they both work fine. No sticking or running rich because of that... I made a slight adjustment to the floats (trying to get as much fuel in as possible befor they close the valve... is that right?!?) As for the fuel lines, I swiched things around a bit, but it still did the bog/starving thing... so I did the redneck thing and clamped down on the problem. Literaly. I took a small pair of vice grips, and gently clamped them on the return line (which is now AFTER the carb feen lines) and went for a test run. On a back road I ran it up hard through the gears, and saw an honest 110 MPH in 4th and it was still pulling!! I lost my nerve though as I was running out of road in a hurry! (it's a side road thats quite straight but only 1/2 mile or so long) So now I guess I'll have to build/rig some sort of fitting to replace my 'backyard hick fix'... plus I like those vice grips.. I use them for other stuf sometimes so.. Anyway, I still have to replace my crudy air filter and set the carbs properly (I played with the wheels too, but they're only about 2 turns out now..) but it doesnt stall out anymore! I do plan on getting that book too.. heck, if I go with my present plan, I'm gona be ordering a set of overbored SUs to go with a hot cam and head work I want to do this comming winter... it's all time and $$ though! Anyway, Thanks a bunch guys!

Well, the pump is on a togle switch, so no relay... and it's new, with new wire and no breaks in it... Im going out there now to tinker with it.. I'll see what I can find..

Thanks man! I still havnt figure out the boging problem, but when it runs good, WOW does she go! I saw 85MPH this afternoon but then it boged out and started to sputter. Felt real good up there though! Oh yah, and I made a Civic GIVE UP tonite from a green light... and I wasnt even trying to race him! I have a bad/dirty air filter, boging out carbs, scraping exhast, and running way rich....I just boged out a bit and had to floor it to keep it going; it caught itself and as I let the clutch out, I drowned out the 'fart can' Civic and tore off like a bat outa hell. He got on it for a second, but when I shifted to 2nd and chirped the tires, he backd off! ( he was already 2 car-lengths behind!) Man I love these cars...

I got this from a web site a few months back, and copyed this piece of text for myself. I to did the zx dizzy swap, and it takes about 10 minits of staring at it and figuring out to get it to work. Pretty easy actually. I cant remember who's site this came from though.. if they see this, thanks a lot and I hope you don't mind me posting it here! Take the wire that was originally going to your points (from the minus pole of the coil) and connect it to the C connection on the outside of the ignition module. Then run a second wire from the B terminal on the ignition module to the plus connection of the coil. The connection to the balast resistor from the coil should allready be there. Now, just short out the balast resistor. I left mine in place and simply ran a wire between the two connectors. Hope this helps.

Do you have the service manual for your car? If so, there's probly a section that will tell you how to check the unit... most likely a resistance reading(s) and wire continuity tests.

Well, as for time, not long.. Maybe 8-10 seconds? From an idle, I can get through 1st (shift at 5500) and through 2nd (go to third about 5000) and almost IMEDIATLY starts to sputter and choke up.... thing is, it's getting worse.. I just got home and as I opened my garage door, the car was ideling fine.. but suddenly sputtered and stalled. The whole way home, it would kick in and out in evrything from 1st to 4th, at any point through the rpm range. All I can think of is this; Posibly, the floats are sticking slightly.. so once the bowls are filled, they stick closed. At this point, the way I have my return line plumbed, the fuel goes the easiest route.. to the return. This causes less presure to the carb fuel lines, and with the floats stuck closed.. I run off the bowls till the car dies. I think going through 2 gears at WOT would probly suck back the whole bowl very quickly.. And here's the dumb part; I'm kinda ignorant about these carbs (hell it's the best way to learn... put them on and start tinkering! right? ) and I don't know where the floats are set. I don't even know HOW to set them, and WHERE to set them to! Also, ah... how many turns out should the needles be initialy? Cause mine are about 1.5 out, and car runs WAY rich.. just drinking the fuel! I will change those fuel lines tomorrow and see what happens... Thanks.. and any other info/hints that I might be missing would be great!

Yah, I was talikg about it with a friend (the guy who helped me prety much all along the way with this car) and we came up with a thought about that... I was thinkin of running the pump straight to the carbs (remove the spliter that has one line to each carb and one going back to the return line) and run the vent lines (off the float bowls) to a 'T' and then to the return line.. maybe it will keep presure better, and if it gets TOO much presure and blows past the floats, the gas will just go out the vent lines to the return... Or does this sound dangerous? I'd hate for my car to go up in flames the first week I have it out...

Just a litle update; it seams to do it EVRY time at WOT in 3d and 4th around 3500-4000rpm. Just hits a wall. I can rev out 1st and 2nd up to 5500 and get into 3rd, but then it dies out... please hep someone!!!

Actually, I might man... I have to get it running more reliably first though.. and do a few other things... but A friend of mine was saying yesterday we should go for a cruise to NY.. for coffe or something. He just got his Harley onthe road and he wants to ddrrrrriiiiiiiiiiiive it! I'll let you know..

Ok, my car; 280z with 72 su round tops, 280zx dizzy with vac advance disabled. Fuel pump out back (generic aftermarket) riged to a switch inside and it pushes about 5 psi throught the stock feed line. At the carbs I split it 3 ways; one line to each carb, and one to the stock return line to the tank. What it's doing; At any rpm (ussualy while driving along though under light to heavy throttle) it suddenly bogs out and drops the revs. I can put in the clutch and keep it going, but barely. (it revs VERY slow and sound like it is really strugling) Sometimes it sorts out and goes away, sometime it stalls completly. It's like it starves for fuel... I'm thinking the filter gets cloged from sediment in the tank, and then the car runs off the float bowls for a minit before I notice anything. I have taken to killing the pump when the car bogs out (for a few seconds) and turning it back on. This ussually catches it within 20 seconds or so, and the car takes off again. (I figure the loss of presure lets whatever's cloging the filter to drop out, and then the fuel can flow again..) But I don't know if this is even reasonable... I thought maybe my zx Dizzy was craping out... but I'm leaning hevily towards a fuel issue...either the fuel itself, or possibly the carbs... it does run very rich, but if I lean it out any, it wants to stall when I get on the throttle and it backfires through the carbs. Can anyone help me on this?

Yup, I FINALLY got the Z on the road! I went out last night and drove around for like 3 hours aimlessly.. boy it was fun! I have a few issues to take car of.. like the boging out and stalling (I think the fuel filter is cloged/junked up) and the whining coming from the rear end.. but over all I am happy with it. It's old, smells, rattles and bumps down the road, and is pretty loud.. god I love it! And I had a string of silly things happen yesterday.. but they didnt even faze me at all I was so hyped up! It started with the battry going dead (just after I afixed the plates and wanted to go for the first drive!) so I charged it... 10 mins later, as I cruise the downtown strip, it runs out of gas (turns out E means empty!) so I fill with a can from a gas station across the street from where I ran out. Continue on my way...... A few mins later, a friend of mine sees me go by and motions for me to come back. I roll up and hes says "Dude... your two front tires are like going flat!" Hmm... ok. Pull into his garage, fill tires, go on my way. about 20 mins later, the exhast falls off at the tip (hanger bolt let go) *ting* ting* down the road... so I grab the vice-grips and clamp it back on there. Continue cruising. I wonder what'll happen tonite!

I guess I'll have to do that... Man I'm tired of all these little problems croping up and taking up extra time and funds. If I ever get this thing on the road, Im gona drive it like I stole it!! Might as well get some enjoyment out of it right?!?

Ok, so a guy is coming to look at the car tomorrow, to make sure I fixed the things he told me to. Evrything's dona except; The friggin reverse lights!!!! They worked fine two days ago, but yesterday when I took it for the safety they stopped working, and are completly DEAD. The switch at the tranny apears to be working (continuity tested while trans was in reverse) and the bulbs are good. I got 12V at the wires in the trans tunnel, but nothing at the bulb sockets.. I am really freaking out here... I dont understand why they won't turn on.. ALL the other lights work in the car, and I can't see a fuse for just the rev. lights... It's like a wire just decided to not work anymore..... AHHHHGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! uh.... Help please..

Well, I did remove them from the lower arm, but it didn't make a bit of difrence. It was still a huge PITA to get in. It's on though.. thanks to brute force and ignorance. I got other probs though now... I'll post in the proper forum for that though..

Yah.. something about that says "dodge was looking over the Nissan fence" for some styleing cues.. Kind of cool though all the same..

Cool man.. thanks for the offer, but the stinkin things actually came in today! And they sent me TWO kits, for $17.89 so I guess I'll just go with this! Im having a hell of a time getting the thing back together though.. have to figure out how to push the rod through enough so I can start the nut on the back side. (as in compress the bushings somehow..) Any hints on this?

I to am curious about this... PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation.. right? so.. hmm.. now Im confused.. Where does it go from the factory? The name suggests it should be vented.. so what benifit is there to 'caping' it off? Im thinking mine is wrong right now.. I'v got it going into the air breather I think... Ahhh!!!!!! It's been a long day.....

Well, under advice from a friend (who works at a dealership that will remain nameless...) I brought my car in to get safety checked. My friend says he told this guy (the master mechanic there) all about my car, and it would be no prob. (And that this mech. drinks Coors... so Im all set) So I get the car there, and this guy proceds to pick out this list of 'NFG things' about my car; -Right ball joint, -right torsion bar bushings, -a 1"X2" hole in BEHIND the rear drivers side rocker at the rear wheel well (must have had a few too many beer that night and forgot it.. ) -Reverse lights out (the damn things worked YESTERDAY!) and, -I need to put a mufler in there somewhere. Yah great.. so.. uh, why do I have to buy this guys a case of beer?!?!? And on top of this, I am gona have to pay AGAIN to have him come and get the car (after I do all this work) and check it before he signs safety slip. Great more money.... Anyway, I go riping all over town after that like a wild man to find parts. There are about 7 auto parts stores in my area.. here comes the irony... Ball joint: $68.98 (only one place can get them.. maybe. I find out tomorrow) As for a mufler, I got the chepest piece of crap I could find; A 'cherry bomb'! Yay!!! $40 friggin bucks for basicaly a straight pipe with some glas pack in it... hmmmm.... T/C rod bushings; $20.98/side (kit) 2 places can get these for me, but one place tells me there is only ONE left... in a ware house in Montreal!! The other says they'll get them from Toronto by tomorrow.. again, I'll find out tomorrow! While on the phone with the nearest Nissan dealer (BTW, the ball joints don't exist anymore as far as they can tell.. try aftermarket) I ask about an air filter for a 72 240z (as I have 72 carbs on my 75... yah, this confused the guy!) There are TWO left in Canada, and they are both in Alberta somewhere. Hmmm... !?!?!?!?!??! Stupid OLD cars.. man, this is really getting crappy.. I just keep throwing money at this thing, and I STILL can drive it!!! Grrrrr....... Tomorrow will be interesting...

Im gona say the one with the 'tabs' in the center is a 70-72. Thats what I have for a bumper, and I got mine from a 72' parts car.... come to think of it, the bumper had yellow writing on it in behind (the stuf scrap yards use to mark parts with) that said '72 240Z'. Also, my original 75 had the plate bolt holes offset to the side of the bumper, so maybe they moved it to the side in 73, and kept it there even after the bigger bumpers came in. Hope this helps.