datsunlover

Man... how do you.. uh,.. SEE out of that thing?!?!?

Hey Doug.. did you get my PM? (sorry to hijack here.. )

I think I 'had' one a few years back I boght from a guy who was spliting up with his wife. (messy) He was selling off evrything dirt cheep.. The tranny was suposed to go in his blown big block 442, which was sitting in the shop at the time.. (reeeeealy cool tubbed drag car!) Fully rebiult, supposedly a very tough tranny.. I paid $250 for it, but ended up using an auto.. sold the standard a few months later for $600!!! They are heavy for a little tranny, but still lighter than and auto I think.

Ok.. welcome to Hybridz.. IF you do a quick search, or glance over a few 'stickys' here, you'll get all the answers you need. You'll also come up with a few more questions, and in turn will most likely find the answers to THOSE as well.. probly by another little search.. Feels weird for me to post a 'SEARCH DAMNIT!' reply.. oh well. heh heh.. I'd say (rough guess here..) a turbo L28 swap is gona run you a few grand.. where as a simple driveshaft replacment, well.. I bet SOMEONE here has one or three lying around their shop that they'd sell you cheep. A turbo swap IS cool though... Anyway, I'm sure there is someone in the midwest who could help you with the swap, or maybe do it for you.. Us Hybridr's are a fairly friendly bunch!

Sort of.... It IS an emulator, but the one my buddy has doesn't burn a new eprom, just takes the factory eproms place, and is re-programable. There's actually a little block you can get soldered onto the ecu board that has a small cam lock, so you can pop the emu. out, and plug a factory chip back in if need be. (Ex; if you got something wrong, and it runs too lean, rich, ect)

Thank you.

Hey Doug.. you're gona clutter up that shop even more!

Heh.. funny thing... turns out the wiper motor problem was a GROUND issue! Temporary fix is a piece of wire under one of the mounting bolts and running around to the back of the casing, sandwiched to the firewall. I know, hack.. Anyway, my buddy says the piggyback unit he has runs about $150 and you can find the software online.. each motor/prom has a diffrent program (specific to the year/model) and costs around $40-$60. Tunnercat is the name I think.. (sorry, don't have the links, he said he'll email them to me)

Ah HA!! The flaw in your arguement; 'Better' is only SUBJECTIVE and not true in all instances. And as for 'designed to be better' well, there are plenty of designs that propose to be just that, but arn't.

I'd say 5 would be ok for me.. The Z (obviously) A nice 4 door sedan like a BMW or and Audi A8 for road trips/ect Full size truck, 4x4 (though my current 1 ton dually is a bit of overkill..) An SUV for winter driving/camping/ect (Durango or Yukon perhaps..) A small car with a big motor, just for having big dumb fun. (Like say, an rx7 with a 350.. ) This would also require a 4 car shop.. and a decent size driveway.. (truck and suv can live outside) But hey, I'm 3 out of 5 already!

IF I get anything back, I'm gona use it to finish the reno's in my house.. I'm still gona try to get it into shape to sell in the summer... but if it looks like that's pushing it too much, (there's LOTS to do... ugh..) , I'll probly just spend it on the 'finishing details' for the RX7 V8.. and sell that to fund the house project.

I'll take two please! I like those Audi turbo motors.. when they run! I supose they're a lot more advanced nowadays.. perhaps more reliable? (I had an 85 5000 Turbo.. went like a raped ape.. when it was running) There was/is a saying for Audis.. All Unnessasary Devices Installed but I guess if you can afford a lotus, AND a turbo Audi swap, you don't mind!

oh.. right... ( <---- Dr evil voice) Well yah, that's very very very not good.. Still not as bad as my first one; Little floor jack in my driveway.. touched the 'rail' in the back, and the jack went up about 2" before the car moved at all!! How much is the 300zx? I'd keep the 280 if you can.. evrythings fixable.. but if you don't have the room or the urge, well.. hopefully you can find someone who does? (I hate seeing Z's go the the crusher...)

A word of warning.. try to wire it off a power source that is live ONLY with the key on! Mine is not.. it's also a marine pushbutton switch, AND it's mounted where the cigarette lighter used to be. (black rubber cover, looks like a cig lighter) I had a guy in my car one day that wanted to light his smoke.. didn't say anything, just reached over and pushed it! Luck for me (and him, cause I probly would have knocked him out if it was any worse) we were sitting in a parking lot with the motor off... but it WAS in 1st gear! the car lurched ahead a foot or so, and it threw him back so he let go of the button. I really have to fix that...

Um.. well, yah.. pretty much the same thing.. no?

Hey, toronto eh? heh heh.. Good to see another canuck on here! I think I'd go with the 3.133 rear end, as it's a turbo car.. although, I've never heard of that ratio.. that's a nissan rear end? And you say it's a 2.8? Now.. I HAVE seen this once (a race prepared car..) Stock 3.0L removed in favor of a built 2.8 L6 motor... anyway, I think the consensus here is that it sounds silly, but a lower (numerical) gear is better for a turbo, giving it more spool/boost.. otherwise, you go throught the gears too fast and don't get as much 'time' in a gear to make boost.

Well it's midnight here right now, and freaking cold+snowing... so I'll take your word for it. I'll probly be under the hood tomorrow anyway, beating on the wiper motor to make it work..

Really? I'm gona have a look under my hood tomorrow.. I swear there is another cable attached under the throttle cable at the throttle body... (91 gmc 454 4x4 1 ton truck)

My odometer (75 280z) reads 52000mi and the previous owner told me it went around once.. oh, and the spedo/odometer stopped working early last year.. so I'm gona guess... 180k miles or so.. I still consider it my 'low milage' car cause my 91 GMC truck is at 330k and still going!

Well, it's really up to you.. but it sounds like a good deal on the 300zx... I has a 280zx as my first car, and two more since then so I have a soft spot for the those softer sprung/heavier beasts.. What do you mean by 'soft' unibody? That zx looks to be in GREAT shape as far as I'm concerned.. Seriously, Canada is rough in old Z's.. I'd be very excited to find one up here that still HAS a floor.. at all.. I personally don't care much for the 1st gen 300's.. they rot just as bad, but have a better FI system.. although that digital dash would scare me..

I've seen coil packs go bad a few times, even when they're fairly new.. I'd replace that for starters.. and if you're just holding the spark plug wire boot on the engine, you wont see much of a spark. Get an old plug and stick it in, then ground the plug to the motor to see if it has a good spark. (Do NOT hold onto it my hand thought! that hurts...) As for the black smoke, the timing is probly running too retarded.. This might sound silly, but check and re check that the firing order is correct.. IE; the plug wires are all in the right spot! I fought with a motor for 20 mins once before I realized the guy I got it from had the plug wire locations BACKWARDS. It would almost run, but kept poping out the exhast/carb and blowing black smoke.

I thought about the same thing, but didn't add any extra re-enforcement.. I figure if I get hit from behind hard enough to do major damage, the rest of the car is going to fold up prety quick.. (and I seriously doubt the factory bumper offered much more security anyway) which means the gas tank is gona get squashed no matter what.

By 'key turned' I take it you mean it's in the 'start' position? And it stops if you release it to the 'on' position? But it doesn't rip up the starter?!? Maybe the ignition swith is worn, and it doesn't make good contact in the 'on' position anymore, therefore cutting the power to the ignition coil.. but by all rights it SHOULD destroy the starter if it's running in the start position...

A 'maybe' here... if someone has removed the dizzy at some point, it may be a tooth off.. if that is the case, there won't be enough rotation of the actuall unit. The quick fix is to rotate all the plug wires over one position on the cap (direction depends on which way you're trying to go; redard or advance) but I would still check the valve lash first.. you'd be suprised the diffrence it can make! For the record, I'm running close to 26* btdc but I have the vacum advance removed. Not a good idea for a FI car, but my SU carbs seam to deal with it. It idles a bit high, but I don't mind.

ACTually.. I can't find the link now, but there IS an adaptor bracket you can buy to run a tps on a carb.. As for re-programing, I'll ask my buddy tomorrow where he got his program.. (he has the 2wd 454 dually we built last year) Somewhere online I believe he found a windows based program that is compatable with this programable eprom unit he bought (I'll try to get the name brand) He was showing it to me last week.. really cool set up; it gives you fuel maps based on tps/rpm, you can change shift points, ect. It is basicaly a piggyback unit that you plug into the ecu in place of the stock prom, and you simply download your setup to it, and plug it into the ecu. I believe it also allows you to make changes on the fly, IE while the vehicle is running. Edit; http://www.twistmachine.com/products/shrifter.html I was on that site, and one of the links shows the bracket.. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_747891_-1