datsunlover

Uh... yah... what he said!!

That thing is damn ugly. I love it.

To bad the guy ended up a car theif.. would have made quite a race/rallly car driver!

HAH!! We just got dumped on this past weekend, and more is falling right now.. I'd say we got about 18" between saturday and this morning... the bank from the snowplow at the end of the driveway is about 3 feet high at this point.. I'm running out of room to throw snow!!

If it were me, and I was just going to 'drive' the car, I'd leave it be. If you're gona be doing a swap, suspension work, ect... you might want to get it straightened.. but I'm sure it wont be cheep at a frame shop..

Linky no worky... page canot be displayed... ?

Heh heh.. yup! It was in my 85 rx7 V8 swap. I got this aluminum rad frm a J/Y that had plastic endcaps on it, and I didn't realize at the time (this was about 7 years ago now..) but if your rad filler is lower then the water neck on the engine, well.. you end up with air in the system right? So I got the thing fired up and was messing with the timing, and my buddy is leaning over from the drivers side, I'm in the car reving it too keep it running, ect. No warning, just a sudden fssss... BOOM!!! Spray of coolant everywhere (lucky for my buddy it only got him in the side, so it just soaked his shirt/pants, not his face) It literaly blew the side tank off the rad core about 1/2" on one side. Just one of the weird things that's happened to me playing with cars...

Yah it sounds to me like the front end is a little too stiff (suspension combined with those BFGs), and being lightened isn't helping. I had a ZX that used to behave like that in the winter. (yes, I know... WHY? It was the only car I had... ) The suspension was stock, with no rear sway bar, which wasn't too bad... but when I threw cinder blocks in the rear for traction weight, (4 actually... ) and put on crapy front tires, but good winter tires on the rear, it got bad. It was basicaly a recipie for dangerous understear, but it would go up most hills and THROUGH almost anything!

Heh heh... funny shite... looks like something me and my buddys would do.. Wait, I think I have done this... just not recorded on video...

I think it works like this; Tilting the top of the rad forwards will increase flow at higher speed, but cause a slight deacrese in cooling ability at low speeds (stop and go, ect).. In my experiance it also exposes more 'surface area' of the rad to flying rocks, debris, ect that you find in evryday street driving.. and you'll need a fill cap somewhere in the top rad hose to properly fill the system, otherwise it might air lock.. Yes, I have blown up a rad or two..

Oh my god... I needed that laugh!

Ahem... uh, sorry to hijack here.. uh, Doug.. PM me if you're interested in selling that 5 gear (fairly cheep maybe?)...

Um.. really? I'm sure a 4.3 (3/4 s of a 350 basicaly) 5 speed would be the same tranny.... I've seen plenty of GM stuff that would seem 'overkill' for the particular vehicle, (Like a transmition) but it was designed/used for the toughest application required and then just used in others, rather than have a compleatly diffrent unit designed. This isn't like putting a 4 cyl 5 speed behind a 454 or something... And I've seen a 700r4 from an astro van (4.3L) behind a 350, and V8's bolted up to the STOCK 3 speed's in older S10s.. I can't imagine why the input shaft would be diffrent (going into a 350 or a 4.3 should be the same...) and even if the output is diffrent, you need a custom driveshaft anyway so what would be the problem?

Seams to me that canadian climate is just no good for old Z FI.. I've had two Zs that ran like that, and heard of countless others... I think the salt and cold/hot season cycles really mess with the electrics.. I'd check the TVS, (unless 76 went to a throttle 'position' sensor?) and the injectors.. sometimes they clog or stick wide open...or the little bastard plastic clips that are suposed to hold on to the injectors crack/get gummed up with green death/fall off.. OR.. the AFM is fubar or has a cracked boot going to the intake plenum.. (masive air leak that the ecu can't see cause its AFTER the AFM..) The whole EFI mess is the main reason I switched to SU's on my 75. Nice and simple now! If you're set on keeping the FI, I've got almost the whole system from my 75..(AFM, TVS, Thermotime switch, harness, ecu and transistor ign unit..) I'd sell it all pretty cheep if you want some spare parts..

To the best of my knowlege, it is the same tranny. BW T5 with a diffrent (longer) shifter for the pickup, but that's an easy switch I believe.

Just wondwering WHAT exactly you'd do with the Lawnmower mans mom and pop's home address and phone#? I bet the bugger doesn't have an ss# either...

Maybe one for Canada.. "great WHITE north" ?

I have an old copy somewhere of road and track mag (I think thats what it was...) from 1983 with a 4-5 page write up of the electromotive 280zxT and the history of it.. Really amazing the power they were putting down..

Looks good man, but I wouldn't put bondo on there.. I can see it cracking really quick given the stresses that area will see.. I'd try to get it a smooth as you can, and maybe try some liquid metal.. Also, I'd get some washers under the cap screws.. It's kind of a rule of thumb IMO for any cap screw/bolt going through a slot that is ment for adjustment. A few times tighnening/loosening them and it will mess up the edge of the slots (mushroom the edge down) making adjustment difficult, and possibly allowing unwanted movement of the part. (strut in this case)

Now THAT was a chunk of ice!! This reminds me.. I should check to see if it's fallen down yet.. I got both cars in the garage now, and sealed up the barn doors.. meh.. I'll cleen it up in the spring, let it come down!!

I think that is really cool.... Yes they are nice in stock form, but that is one of the nicest re-bodys I've seen in a while.. actually looks GOOD compared to a lot I've seen... I think even nicer than the 'Python' re-body on the 1st gen rx7s.. Only problem (for me anyway..) is the $$$ you have to spend JUST for a platform to work with, THEN buy the re-body kit.. What are 3rd gens going for.. still around 20k or so? You can buy a 1st gen for next to nothing nowadays.. http://www.rx7v8.netfirms.com/

Another vote here for the 3:90. Thats what I run in my 280z and I'll top out around 140 mph..roughly. It gets a little scarry after 125 anyway, and floats a bit, so I hardly ever push past that. I'm runnung a little hotter cam in mine (280/510) and have a 240sx (KA) 5 speed.. I don't know how this compares to your zx gear box.. I think my 1st and 2nd gears are diffrent.

I drove about 1.5 hours away to LOOK at mine, then drove back 2 days later to pick it up, and drive it home with my buddy following me in my truck. All the fuel I spent between the truck and the Z (which didn't want to run properly the whole way back, poping chugging and blowing black smoke) came out to about $150... but Z's are not to abundant around here, and especially not driveable for $800! I'd have driven a lot further to be honest, and was willing to pay the $1000 asking price too.. And seeing as I didn't have the cash up front to buy one with uh.. well, less rust.. I took what I could get. I'm into it probly $10K now, but that's over 3 years. I just couldn't simply 'save up' for 3 years.. I would have bought something else anyway.

"Holy crap!" I think that about covers it!!

I think the valves would need oil, you know.. sliding up and down in their seats.. lol