Warren

Did somebody mention 2005 Mustang Taillights? Already been done on my ZX...probably WAY too large for a Z's rear panel. And YES, they are pretty flat, but still have some curve to them.

"Part of the problem as well, is the damn rack and pinion x-member is also in the way." 5 bolts, 1 on the steering linkage, 4 on the crossmember, Viola, it's outta your way. (You may need to disconnect the outter tie rod ends, but that's not all that hard to do with a pickle fork.) Support it with a jack during the process. NO need to totally remove it, simply lower it out of your way. Refer FSM ST-11 & ST-12. Just make sure to put it back where it came from. (not alot of chance not to) Hope it helps

Yes, he's correct, and Yes they will fit on your 83. Warren

Yep, it can be fixed, but you should simply return the key to Nissan and let them know that you need the opposite keyway. There are 2, one is X6 and the other is X7...they should have both, just bring them the key code and they can cut it, or any locksmith that does automotive keys should be able to cut it as well. If you can't get it done right locally, send me a PM with the keycode and I'll cut it for ya. I'll know which keyway you need simply by the code. Warren

The coolest one of them all is the one with your name above and your link below!!!

Steve, I think it had something to do with the assembly line procedures in that the passenger door lock was the either the first or last installed as a set. The locks provided during assembly came in complete sets, with only 1 lock stamped with the code, until the ZX came out, then both the passenger door lock AND the hatch lock were stamped. Most import cars (Japanese that is) are similar with the passenger door lock being the only one with a code stamped on it. For the exact reason why, you'd have to ask the manufacturers, but it's been that way for quite some time. Nissan stopped putting the key code stickers in the glove boxes in 1986, so anything newer than that only has the code stamped in the door lock (ZX excluded)....... Hope that sheds a little light. Warren

Right Steve, Just make sure that if you pull the door panel, you pull the PASSENGER side, as it won't be listed, stamped, imprinted, or written on the driver's side, unless someone put it there after delivery from the dealer. Also, ANY Nissan dealer should have keys blanks in stock and have the ability to cut the key by code, however, they only have the ability to look up the keycode by vin for vehicles produced after 1996 or so. Bring proof of ownership either way. One more thing, if you've changed the doors themselves, from another vehicle, don't expect that key code to work for the ignition (common sense). I CAN and HAVE for several of our members here, rekeyed a set of mismatched locks back to ONE key, so if you need that done, just contact me, I'm sure we can work something out. Warren

Key code is listed on passenger door lock for Z cars if it's not on a label in the glove box. 79-83 also has it listed on the hatch lock, remove the license plate light and read it from the side of the lock. No key codes listed or stamped into the ignition locks, sorry. Send me a PM with your keycode, I'll send you some keys. Warren, Owner Custom Lock & Key My Work Website

Doug, I've never preheated anything aluminum...just make sure it's REALLY clean and the gaps are at an absolute minimum. Use the TIG slide chart that came with the machine to set the machine properly and you shouldn't have any problems. I use 2% Thoriated tungsten (red band)(against what some others may say, but my local Miller rep recommended them to me) and I've never had a problem with it. I've also experimented with Pure tungstens (green band) and haven't noticed any major differences. I've even modified my Griffin radiator outlet without preheating and it worked just fine. Others may have other experiences to share with you, and I can only tell you what's worked for me, so your mileage may vary. Just remember that cleanliness is PARAMOUNT. Hope it helps, Warren

I too have the 180SD and have no problem doing intercooler work. You should be fine. Just remember, along with practice, practice, practice, comes CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN... Warren

The seals we're talking about are the bodyside seals for a ZX...they go from the middle of the door on the A-Pillar, up the window, across the top, around the T-Top, back to the window, down the window, and stop just below the top of the door on the B-Pillar. For an 82 model, the part numbers are: 76850-P8100 Weatherstrip Assembly, Body Side, Right 76851-P8100 Weatherstrip Assembly, Body Side, Left The pair of them are currently priced at $520.80 Canadian which at today's rate equals out to be $425.02 US Dollar PLUS SHIPPING... Hope that helps a little bit... Warren

Thanks for the tip... Gave them a call, asked for Parts Department, phone answered by someone not familiar with the old cars. He asked for my number and said that the right person would call me back when he finished with the customer he was helping. Within 5 minutes, the phone rang. Connected with a guy named BILL MONEY...very helpful person, knows the old cars very well. Seems Nissan Canada still has access to the parts from Japan and alot of the older stuff that's NLA in the US. (Thanks Nissan USA) If you need them, just give him a call. Got told that the T-Top seals could be in his hands tomorrow. I'm ordering them now. FINALLY a place to deal with where someone not only knows what they're talking about but is willling to be of some REAL assistance. Kudo's to Larry for the hot tip. Warren

Put the line from the top of the wastegate to the OUT port on the servo and the bottom line from the wastgate to the intake manifold. At least that's how I'm reading the instructions. Switches for normal boost using external wastegate are 1 off, 2 on, 3 on & 4 off When overboost occurs, they should be 1 off, 2 on, 3 off, & 4 on. Although this link is not Nissan related, it does have a great diagram of the installation and switch settings. Profec B Installation Diagram Seems contrary to Tial's instructions: Click on Waste Gates, then Instructions Hope it helps. Warren

Low brake fluid level in the reservior, or the wiring associated with the sensors in the caps. Check to make sure you have the fluid topped off and that the wiring is still plugged in. Warren

On a ZX, the rear caliper pistons are to be ROTATED back into the caliper... A C-Clamp will do you NO good whatsoever. Use a pair of needle nose pliers in 2 of the 4 grooves around the outside edge of the flat part of the piston's surface to rotate it back into the caliper. Refer to FSM section BR-10 for more info. Hope it helps. Warren

Copied from another post on another site... "HybridZ.org is considered the definitive source for Z engine swaps, but be sure to use the Search function for your questions first, or else the senior members there will eat you alive." Just HAD to carry that over to this site...got a good chuckle out of it myself.

Just for reference, not to continue an argument about locks here, but... I DO own an automotive locksmith company, I have almost 10 years of daily experience in the automotive lock and key field. I service several automotive dealerships and their customers and see this stuff EVERY day. Care and Service of Master Padlocks Master probably makes more locks than just about anyone... Medeco Cylinder Lubrication In their own words... Suzuki - Oil, Chemicals and Lubricants They even have their own NON-Graphite "Spray Liquid" product. These are just a couple of references and recommendations by the manufacturers of locks. I'm sure there are others that might recommend lubrication using graphite, but I know of these MAJOR manufacturers who don't, including MEDECO. While this seems to be a very controversial subject as to which product to use as a lubricant, it really all comes down to personal preference. It should be noted that each person servicing locks has their own technique and favorite method of cleaning as well as lubrication. I can only speak from my experiences and make recommendations based on what I KNOW works for me. As the information provided above was not intended to slander or bash any one person in particular, it seems that this has turned into a discussion of right and wrong ways to accomplish a simple task, which can be done in many ways. The intent of my comments were only to make a safe and easy recommendation to possibly solve a problem for a fellow member of the community here. Either way you choose to clean and lubricate your locks will work, but having had to completely disassemble and thoroughly clean out as many locks as I have in the last 10 years, trust me, the job is ALOT cleaner and neater if the graphite isn't introduced into the lock in the first place. Many of the locks that I've had to service were so full of graphite and other debris that the springs which return the wafer tumblers back to their resting positions were completely jammed, actually keeping the tumblers from moving. Getting back to the original problem, of the lock being hard to turn, may not even be the lock or the key's fault. The lock rods, door latch mechanism and/or other friction points of the system may be at fault. There may be corrosion caused by dissimilar metals and moisture as well as simple rust formed around the tailpiece retaining clip, causing excess friction. Without being able to physically see the entire locking system of the car, it's hard to diagnose the exact cause of the problem, however, through experience, I've gained enough knowledge to realize what causes these things to happen. Therefore, the recommendation to clean and lubricate the locks is the easiest and fastest option to at least rule out the lock itself being the cause of the problem. It may, or may not, resolve the situation of the key being hard to turn in the lock, but it's a good starting point. Further investigation might be required.

Jake, you make a good point, it IS in fact a good lubricant, "by itself", however, when mixed with the factory installed lubricants, the combination of the two, become a gel about the consistancy of peanut butter. This in turn slows and or impedes the movement of the wafer tumblers used in the locks, thus impeding their reaction to key insertion and extraction. Since the tolerances in the locks are critical to their proper operation, and this overabundance of "peanut butter" gets hardened with time, the proper clearances are therefore lessened, causing the locks to malfunction, i.e. sticking tumblers, worn springs, excessive wear to the inner cylinder walls caused by forcing the locks to be turned with the tumblers not fully retracted. So to stand corrected, I will, but I will still remain constant in saying that it's not a good idea to put graphite in locks. (Besides, it's nasty as heck to work on locks and get that crap all over the place after someone has put graphite in them.) It should also be noted that worn keys will have the same effect on the lock cylinders. If the key does not pull down or push up on the tumblers the proper amount, either by being worn too much or the tumblers being full of foreign matter, the lock cylinder itself will be worn by the brass edges of the tumblers themselves, causing grooves around the cylinder on it's inner walls. This in itself is one of the major reasons that so many locks can be opened (effectively picked) with the wrong key. Thanks for the carlification. Warren

Yeah, that's it, squirt graphite (an abrasive) into a lock cylinder (there goes the tolerances). Trust me, if you put graphite in a lock, you'll hate yourself if you ever have to take it apart. That crap is NASTY, especially when it gets mixed into a paste with the white lithium grease or other stiff lubricant that the factory puts in them. Take a trip to NAPA or other auto parts store. Get some Sea Foam Deep Creep. Click for Pic. Not the same stuff you put in your crankcase or gas tank, but made by the same people. Use the little red rube to spray the lock through the key hole (just barely put the tube in the keyway so you don't pass the front tumblers completely). A 1 second spray will be sufficient and let it alone for a minute or two, then run your key in and out of the lock a few times before trying to turn it. Wipe the gunk off of the key blade after doing this and you'll be amazed at what you find. Spray the locks about once a year to rinse away the buildup of pocket lint and other debris that gets stuck in there. Brake parts cleaner works well to spray away the debris and gunk as well, but make sure you re-lubricate the lock with Deep Creep or other "penetrating" lubricant as the brake parts cleaner will rinse away all of the lubricant too. WD40 will work, for a while, only until it either dries up or gums up, but your problem will return using that stuff. There are other lubricants you can use to spray in locks, but over the years, I've found that Deep Creep works best and lasts longest. I'm an automotive locksmith by trade. You don't have to listen if you don't want to, but you did ask for advice. Another problem may be that your key is so worn that you need to have it re-cut to factory spec by code. If you know your key code, I can help you, if not, it's on the passenger door lock (requires removal from the door). Most times, the key is worn LONG before the lock wears out. Since your car is a 77, and Nissan didn't stop doing this till 1982 or so, look in the glovebox for a white paper sticker with your key code on it. If you have that, let me know, I'm capable of producing new keys for you.

Read a little further folx, that's just the color coat...the basecoat which is required is the same price. Then they recommend using the top coat on it too, which isn't quite as expensive, but DAMN, somebody is proud of this stuff.

WHOA, hang on a second. It could just be me on this one, but if it is a ZXT, and it's still "stock" then the following text from the FSM should apply. This is the first thing they say about the ECCS system controlling the idle on the ZXT (different from the EFI system controlling idle on the ZX). The ECCS System is covered in the FSM, AFTER the EFI system. "OUTLINE In the Electronic Concentrated Engine Control System (E.C.C.S.), the control unit employs a micro-computer. This micro-computer controls fuel injection, spark timing, exhaust gas recirculation (E.G.R.), idle speed, fuel pump operation and mixture ratio feedback. It is unnecessary to adjust idle CO%, idle rpm and ignition timing. Electrical signals from each sensor are fed into the micro-computer and each actuator is controlled by an electrical pulse with a duration that is computed in the micro-computer." Perhaps this explains why he cannot find the idle speed adjustment screw on the throttle body. While this information comes from the 1982 model FSM, the 1983 "should" be similar if not exactly the same. Refer to the EFEC section in the FSM for more information FWIW, when my car started doing what yours is doing, idling too low and stalling (if I read it right), I found that the little vacuum lines on the VCM (Vacuum Control Modulator) near the AFM had split and were leaking. I replaced those 3 vacuum lines and the problem instantly disappeared. Hope this helps a little.

Please tell me what you did after you do it, since with the 3 foot long heat shield in there and a 3" exhaust, both running directly UNDER the driveshaft, it appears you'd just about HAVE to have something "custom" made. As far as the CV Axles are concerned, it would be nice to know what others have done for those too. If they break or come loose for some reason, that would be a situation just as dangerous and damaging. I have MIG and TIG welders here, as well as benders, so fabrication shouldn't be that big of a deal if needed. I just need some ideas.

It's not gone, it's been moved to a SUB-FORUM of the Engine Components forum...now it's even more of a PITA to find stuff... Oh well...just another change to have to get used to.

IF, by some chance, you do happen to get your car on the show to be overhauled, don't think that it's not going to cost you a bundle when they're done. This is the disclaimer from their website. "Disclaimer: Applicant agrees to pay all federal, state, and local taxes, including income, use or sales taxes or any other governmental charges imposed on prizes, including the value of any goods or services received and cash gifts, if any, given to me or received by me by reason of my participation in the program and I release and indemnify producer from any liability therefor. I also authorize producer to deduct or withhold any such taxes or charges that require a payment prior to delivery of said prizes, cash or gifts." In short, better go take out a loan. Same thing happens when you win something on a game show...you owe the taxes based on the value to Uncle Sam. Just thought you'd like to know that, so when you get the keys back, the first place you should drive to is the bank.

Nope, Warren (that's me) is on the East Coast...Marietta, Georgia. PM me if you need something. I've rebuilt locks and made keys for a few members here. I'm always willing to help out other Z owners.